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Unread 05-03-2010, 06:37 PM   #16
way_of_life
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Chicago
Posts: 270
is the end on the steering drag link or wtvr its called (from pitman arm to knuckle) the same as the tie rod ends?

as in-- should I buy 3 of those inserts? (one for each end of tie rod and one for drag link)

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Unread 05-03-2010, 06:53 PM   #17
CJ8Ted
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You could (I think) un-scrue the tie rod untill the ends come out. Jack on the axle so the wheels can toe out freely as you turn the tie rod. As for the drag link remove the pitman arm end first than you should be able to get it out of the stearing knuckle end. I cant beleve the springs are that shot but I cant see anything else incorrect.

Ted
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Unread 05-03-2010, 07:04 PM   #18
CJ8Ted
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If the springs are shot would'nt they get flat and give it more clearance? I think these things are very arched, I wonder if the pearch was changed, allthough it would be the wrong way,(less caster) IMO.

Ted
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Unread 05-04-2010, 05:50 AM   #19
CALOcruiser
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CJ8Ted, are you guys still talking about my jeep? I've determined that the springs are not that shot, it's the new arc without the flip-over mod causing the problem. the perch has not been changed. The caster actually seems okay, visually speaking and by the way it drove. Adding shims would help the clearance a little(as 80CJ suggested), but I don't think I need it for caster. I can't figure out what kind of lift kit is on the this thing. It's bare min to get the correct lift (springs and shocks only). The other hardware is all original, including the lock nuts that fell apart in my hand when I loosened the u-bolts, and the cracked spring plate.

The drag link would need the same modification as the tie rod.
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Unread 05-04-2010, 06:56 AM   #20
way_of_life
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would that kit alter the structural integrity of the knuckle at those holes or do they not need to be drilled that much more than stock size?
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