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Unread 03-21-2008, 12:08 PM   #1
mmerlina
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Removing heater blower motor?

Hey everyone, I don't remember exactly what it looks like under there, but I remember not knowing how to get the blower motor out of the vehicle. Is it behind the heater box?

When I upgraded to a mojave, I actually cut the heater box away because 1) I am impatient and a maniac at times and 2) if I remember correctly it was bolted from the firewall forward into the cab?

How do I get that motor out without destroying something?

Thanks!

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1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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Unread 03-21-2008, 12:11 PM   #2
Mike Romain
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There are 4 nuts on the engine side of the firewall you have to remove. The first one is dead center behind the valve cover.
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Unread 03-21-2008, 01:25 PM   #3
mmerlina
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Bah, I hate that damn valve cover! ;p
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1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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Unread 03-21-2008, 02:34 PM   #4
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmerlina View Post
Bah, I hate that damn valve cover! ;p
You are going to hate it worse if you bump it when trying to get that nut off.... I used a box end wrench on it if I remember right.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 03-21-2008, 02:35 PM   #5
bigjoe
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Factory blower fan is bolted to back of heater box. You have to remove heater box to get at the fan.
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Unread 03-21-2008, 05:58 PM   #6
mmerlina
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I figured as much, how do you "properly" get the box out? Like I say I cut huge chunks of mine off to fit the mojave in there. Wasn't my first choice as an approach but patience wore thin I guess.. was a while back.
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1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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Unread 03-21-2008, 06:04 PM   #7
Bard
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Mike, PM me your email and I will send you a nice little .pdf
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Unread 03-25-2008, 06:23 AM   #8
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bard View Post
Mike, PM me your email and I will send you a nice little .pdf
Bard, will you send it to me also ? Thanks.
I have all the firewall nuts removed and the heater core/motor case seems loose but is retained to the upper section, the fresh air/defrost duct work. I can not seem to find where to unmount that box. It does not seem to want to separate from the heater core box.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 11:46 AM   #9
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Bard, will you send it to me also ? Thanks.
I have all the firewall nuts removed and the heater core/motor case seems loose but is retained to the upper section, the fresh air/defrost duct work. I can not seem to find where to unmount that box. It does not seem to want to separate from the heater core box.
The fresh air box is held in by four phillips screws under the fresh air intake grill.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 12:09 PM   #10
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oily View Post
The fresh air box is held in by four phillips screws under the fresh air intake grill.
Yeah, I found that the hard way. I pulled the grill off and still couldnt find any screw. Mine were buried in some type of sealer the PO used to seal the duct. Or maybe it was the factory, it's hard to tell sometimes.
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Unread 03-25-2008, 12:14 PM   #11
hdroadkingc
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If you need a heater box PM me. I have a used one I need to get rid of.
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Unread 03-26-2008, 06:53 AM   #12
Oily
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Notes of interest. It has been mentioned here that the hole in the new motor housing is a drain and also it has been mentioned that it is for cooling. The story I get is that it is for cooling and that it is an intake port. An ell shaped hose is supposed to come out of the airflow duct work and into the housing. Just covering the hole may not be a good idea from the lifetime span perspective. Also, the common perception seems to be to use a blower motor from an 83 Blazer/Pick Up with A/C. The shaft is too long on the A/C model. You will need the non A/C blower motor.
Other questions. What has everybody been using to fabricate a new weather stripping pad as fond on the back of the CJ heater motor housing? I was looking for sheet material but could only find rolls of weather stripping. I have thought about carpet padding and even styrofoam.
Also, what have any done for a new seal between the heater box and the fresh air box? I would hate to have to order and wait for one.
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Unread 03-26-2008, 07:19 AM   #13
Redmanchew
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Oily,
Just a though on the "gasket", how about sheet rubber. maybe something cloth impregnated that you can cut and punch holes in.
Keep us updated...this was my 2nd winter i "forgot" to do my blower motor upgrade.....
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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 03-26-2008, 08:57 AM   #14
Oily
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Originally Posted by Redmanchew View Post
Oily,
Just a though on the "gasket", how about sheet rubber.
I found some at a local (not chain) hardware store. I would need at least six thicknesses at $2.19 a piece. I can get it in thicker batches at work for free but would still need multi layers.
I just got back from a carpet store. They had piles of leftover/used stuff. It comes in different grades. Some you can blow through and some plastic backed. I think it is the solution and will even work to seal the two units.
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