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Unread 11-09-2012, 12:29 PM   #16
Noplainsdrifter
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A quick search on Summit Racing shows only about $30-40 difference between a high for Alloy and low for Motive and Superior being in the middle...

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Unread 11-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #17
JeepGuy66
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1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
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To MoC,

It looks like I'm going to go with 4.10....but still have time to change my my mind if needed. It's confusing and frustrating though. Seems like 4.27 would be perfect but they don't make them for AMC 20 (from what I can tell). So according to the gear calculator 4.10 is where I want to be. Plus, I have spoken to about 4 people each with different backgrounds, 1) owner of Toy Box in Daytona 2) owner or Volusia Drivetrain 3) grimmjeeper 4) private jeep restoration guru and they all say 4.10 but then again an awful lot of comments in the forum say 4.56 but seems like highway is worthless with 4.56. Although most of my driving will be around town DD asphalt, little to no highway but it would be nice to be able to go on the highway if I wanted. I suspect I will go on the highway more than I'll ever go wheeling. Can't afford to put a bunch of money in to a resto just beat the living crap out of it. Just my opinion.

Would love to hear more from folks w 304 and 35's.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/an...-t176-1434091/
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Unread 11-09-2012, 12:45 PM   #18
kickingprop
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What tranny? If you have OD then 4.56 is the way to go. if your final gear ratio is 1:1 then I'd stick 4.10's for those tires and motor...
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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Unread 11-09-2012, 12:54 PM   #19
Noplainsdrifter
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I have have a 360 with 36's and running 5.38's. They were in my axles when I bought them otherwise I might not have chosen that low. It doesn't see a lot of of highway time but at 60mph I'm turning around 3000ish rpm. It's not ideal but for the small amount I hit the highway it's tolerable. I really love the 5.38's off road. With that being said, you might want to go lower gears. IMO
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Unread 11-09-2012, 01:07 PM   #20
JeepGuy66
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kickingprop,

I have both the T5 and T176 w/bellhousings. I bought it with a T5 (although originally it came w/T176). It was recommended that the T5 is weak and should be swapped with a T176. I happen to find a nice T176 w/bellhousing on CL for cheap and couldn't resist. So I have my choice. Like you, I also thought 4.56 with the T5 or 4:10 w/176 but again some have said the 35's will tear up 3rd gear on T5. So technically, it still up in the air but I'm leaning towards 4:10 with T176. If the T5 were heavier duty I would probably go that way with 4.56.

btw, this is my first jeep so I don't have any practical experience like the rest of you. Am I on track here?
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Unread 11-09-2012, 01:23 PM   #21
CSP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter View Post
Are you saying G2 is crap?
No, I'm saying that it's 4WP's house brand, nothing more and nothing less than that. Most of their house brand stuff is made to be the price leader, and usually that means the quality isn't as good as other brands.

I don't have any firsthand experience with G2. I do know of Geniune Gear R&P's that were hard to set up and noisy.

Supposedly G2 is better, but I have no personal knowledge either way.
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Unread 11-09-2012, 01:24 PM   #22
kickingprop
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I grenaded my T5 behind a tired 258 before I did my 5.3/4L60E swap so yeah they are pretty weak. I'd go T176 and 4.10's. I'll be doing 4.56's when I do my axle swap but I also have the luxury of a nice strong 4L60E with OD...
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1985 CJ7 Project
Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed
Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete
Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning

Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...

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Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
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Unread 11-09-2012, 03:46 PM   #23
Redmanchew
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nope not the gears everything tight..... so dont toss out the alloy USA as an lower cost option...i got mine from randys with the rebuild kit...

if you are highway go with the 4.10 if you are more wheeling/crawling go with the 4.56

damn now i still have to find out what the noise is.....
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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Unread 02-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #24
poppatello
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Waking up an old thread. What have you decided to go with? Right now I'm running a 4 banger with a T-4 and 3:54 gears running 35's. Yes try that one for size. I bought a rebuild but not complete 304 last spring and a used T-18 out of a Ford F450 rollback. I plan to rebuild the T-18 and drop in the 304 @ the same time. The 304 will be stock or however it was rebuilt and I may replace the intake to make it lighter. However, I've done my research and what I have found is I want to go with 4:56 gears. So that is what I plan to run in my Cj. 304, T-18 w/D300, 4:56 gears with one piece axles. I figured running around 70 would put me @ 2600 RPMs.

What I was looking for was a set up that would give me pretty decent road manners and allow me to crawl on the rocks if I ever chose too (Not a Rocker) play with others. I also wanted something good for mud which is what I like to do, mud and water.

So with my set up I have a pretty high and nice crawl speed and doing about 72 mph @ 2600 RPM with 4:56 gears...
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