Rebuilt t176 hard to shift - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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Rebuilt t176 hard to shift

I'm reaching out in hopes that the experienced guys here may have some insight. I purchased a t176 online. I went through it and rebuilt it. I have never done a transmission before. Only issue i saw inside was the reverse idler was a little gnawed so i replaced it. I paid very close attention to the order or things. I took pictures and also kept the parts in order on a piece or conduit. But one never knows, maybe I made a mistake. Anyway I finished putting a complete new drivetrain in my 84 cj7 and took it for a test drive. First, when starting, even in neutral, the jeep lurches forward very slightly. I found this odd. It went right into reverse and I backed it out. I had to push on the shifter pretty hard to get it out of reverse. The clutch is disengaging fine by the way. Then I put it in 1st and pulled out to the road. It was difficult when going down the road to shift to second and third, but its just fine going in and out of fourth. When I came to a ustop I had to push pretty hard and keep playing with the shifter to get it into first or second to take off again. Now it is very difficult to get into or out of first,second, and third. Fourth and reverse are just fine. I did not rebuild the shift tower for it seemed to be just fine and I did put a new shifter in it. What gives? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Oh by the way, it got a 304 too.

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post #2 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 10:37 AM
TIPPEDITOVER
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I had similar symptoms after my trans rebuild. Mine was a two fold problem. First, I improperly installed the pilot bushing in the back of the crank (drove it to deep). Crank was machined with a step down in diameter. It essentially re sized the pilot bushing to a smaller diameter. The result was the trans input shaft was binding inside of it.

Second, on the first rebuild I didn't get the main-shaft end-play correct. It was supposed to have a certain amount of play back and forth, like .012 or something like that. I set it too tight. Lessons learned for me.

I don't know if that's what's going on with yours, but that's what happened with mine.
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post #3 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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Hmmm. Not good either way. I also noticed it is hard to shift without it running too. Until I get it to go into each gear. Then it shifts fine until I start it. Ever feel like putting dynamite in the frame rail and lighting it?
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post #4 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 11:09 AM
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudpuppy1979 View Post
Hmmm. Not good either way. I also noticed it is hard to shift without it running too. Until I get it to go into each gear. Then it shifts fine until I start it. Ever feel like putting dynamite in the frame rail and lighting it?
Did you bench test it with the front cone on and the rear adapter bolted in place?
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post #5 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudpuppy1979 View Post
Ever feel like putting dynamite in the frame rail and lighting it?
Haha, yes occasionally. Just walk away from it for awhile. You will feel better after some time has passed.
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post #6 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 11:29 AM
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[QUOTE="Ever feel like putting dynamite in the frame rail and lighting it?[/QUOTE]

Would that work with Rust?

Still sounds like something is dragging and or binding the input shaft.

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post #7 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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I did spin it on the bench with the cone on. In neutral I could spin it but it was hard to hold the output shaft still while spinning the input shaft. I figured it was just something that would ware in. I'm a transmission noob. Guessin that's what my indication was. Should this process be very free to spin?
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post #8 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 04:00 PM
shadoow
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Since it seems like its tight in only 1st -3rd it may have something to do with the cluster gear ... maybe a thrust washer in backwards or some issue with the needle bearings ... something causing it to bind up a little.
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post #9 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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I just pulled the trans out. It spins freely in neutral. But, if I try to spin the input and output in opposite directions of each other I do feel resistance. Is this the binding? How easy should it spin?
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post #10 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 10:54 PM
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I helped one forum member who had a similar problem. Turns out he had not installed the rear main shaft bearing to the proper depth (should bottom out on a shoulder on the shaft) So effectively, when he bolted the T/C adapter to the trans, he ended up put a heavy preload on the mainshaft bearing which made it hard to turn.
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post #11 of 54 Old 05-05-2013, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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Interesting... I noticed a small gap between the snap ring and the rear face of the transmission for the rear bearing. Like it was pushed out, or was not all the way in.
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post #12 of 54 Old 05-06-2013, 09:06 AM
shadoow
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i think what 80cj is talking about is positioning the front/rear bears far enough onto their shafts, not of positioning them in the case. Both bearings are held onto their shafts with a snap ring. In my case i couldn't get these snap rings installed unless the bearings were seated properly on their shafts.
Both bearing also have a large 'snap ring' that goes around the outside of the bearing. With the transfer case adapter off the rear of the trans case or the front bearing cone off the front it's normal to be able to move the trans shaft in & out a little which creates a gap between these large snap rings and the transmission case. IIRC it's about 1/8" or thereabouts.
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post #13 of 54 Old 05-06-2013, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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Yep, that's what I'm seeing. Back into it I go.
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post #14 of 54 Old 05-06-2013, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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If I put the tc adapter on it gets very tight. When I take it off its loose. You guys are on the money. This means my clearances are jacked up right?
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post #15 of 54 Old 05-06-2013, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
Mudpuppy1979
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Taking the front cap on or off has the same effect.
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