I'm thinking I may just need to rebuild the entire clutch linkage (with special focus on the bellcrank) to fix this problem. I don't want to drop my transmission just to learn that my clutch linkage was super sloppy..
I now have two bellcrank-to-pedal rods: the one that was on my Jeep when I bought it, and the one I bought the other day from Omix-Ada. The one from Omix-Ada was considerably shorter, which I thought could fix the problem with the travel. When I installed the shorter one, the side of the bellcrank which is closest to the pedal was positioned correctly - almost vertical, but not quite. I adjusted the adjusting rod and the pedal rod out as far as they could go, but it apparently was not enough to disengage the clutch.
I also tried with the longer one - the adjusting rod was adjusted IN all the way it could go, and the clutch rod was also as short as it could go. I was still having the problem that you see in the picture, where the bellcrank was facing way too far down.
When I did both of these adjustments, I pushed the clutch pedal and watched the shift fork - it seemed to be engaging the pressure plate, but I guess just not enough? Or could it still be something wrong inside the bellhousing area itself - such as the pressure plate splines being uneven?
Could it just be slop in the bellcrank, or the bushings inside the bellcrank need replacing? I'm thinking of getting a bellcrank rebuild kit from Omix-Ada or Crown on Monday. I'm just confused because I have tried adjusting everything that I can adjust, and I can't see how some sloppy bushings would cause it to not work.
I am positive the clutch disc is correct - I double checked the "flywheel side" on the disc. The clutch pedal is only sticking because of the linkage - with the rod that was there originally (long one), I wasn't able to adjust it short enough to not hit the bellcrank end against the frame. When I used the shorter clutch rod, I couldn't get the linkage long enough to disengage the clutch.
On the fork itself, I have about 2" of travel before the throwout bearing hits against the pressure plate. After that, the best pedal adjustment I could get would push the clutch fork another inch or so, which I thought would be enough to disengage the clutch. It wasn't. How far does that damn thing have to travel back to work right?
Wishing I could get this working so I could drive around the block. So close!
I got a new set of bushings / clips / adjusting rod for the CJ. The adjusting rod that I bought is at least 2" longer than the one that was on my Jeep, but otherwise they seem identical. Also, I cleaned off my bellcrank a lot and was about to install the new bushings, but I noticed something. There is only a slot for the C clip on the transmission side of the bellcrank (where the grease fill hole is). On the other side, there is not a slit for the clip to fit into. Can anyone with a 72-75 CJ-5 confirm that this is the case, before I go out and buy a new bellcrank tomorrow? I don't want that bushing slipping back into the bellcrank. I have only been able to find pictures of bellcranks for 76+ CJ-5's and they all had two slits. Thanks guys, I think I may be close to getting this fixed!