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Unread 04-13-2013, 10:11 PM   #16
lucdog
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In your pictures of the linkage, is the clutch on the floor, or in the normal hanging position.

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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
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Unread 04-13-2013, 10:44 PM   #17
Koko4
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1975 CJ5 
 
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I believe it was in the normal hanging position. I have adjusted it many different times, so honestly I can't be sure. I have found a different thread with an almost identical issue:

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showt...-pilot-bushing

I'm thinking I may just need to rebuild the entire clutch linkage (with special focus on the bellcrank) to fix this problem. I don't want to drop my transmission just to learn that my clutch linkage was super sloppy..
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Unread 04-13-2013, 11:39 PM   #18
lucdog
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Looks to me like the adjusting arm needs lengthing, and the arm from the pedal should be shortend. The bell crank may be going over center causing the pedal to not come back up.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 08:29 AM   #19
ASteve
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I have some spare linkage if you want them. Both arms and adjusting nut.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 09:03 AM   #20
Koko4
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I now have two bellcrank-to-pedal rods: the one that was on my Jeep when I bought it, and the one I bought the other day from Omix-Ada. The one from Omix-Ada was considerably shorter, which I thought could fix the problem with the travel. When I installed the shorter one, the side of the bellcrank which is closest to the pedal was positioned correctly - almost vertical, but not quite. I adjusted the adjusting rod and the pedal rod out as far as they could go, but it apparently was not enough to disengage the clutch.

I also tried with the longer one - the adjusting rod was adjusted IN all the way it could go, and the clutch rod was also as short as it could go. I was still having the problem that you see in the picture, where the bellcrank was facing way too far down.

When I did both of these adjustments, I pushed the clutch pedal and watched the shift fork - it seemed to be engaging the pressure plate, but I guess just not enough? Or could it still be something wrong inside the bellhousing area itself - such as the pressure plate splines being uneven?

Could it just be slop in the bellcrank, or the bushings inside the bellcrank need replacing? I'm thinking of getting a bellcrank rebuild kit from Omix-Ada or Crown on Monday. I'm just confused because I have tried adjusting everything that I can adjust, and I can't see how some sloppy bushings would cause it to not work.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 10:26 AM   #21
Matt1981CJ7
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How much freeplay do you have in the pedal before you feel resistance?

I hate to even ask this, but are you sure your disc is facing the correct way? I put one on backwards in a Blazer, one time, and the pedal went to the floor and stayed there.

Matt
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Unread 04-14-2013, 04:23 PM   #22
Koko4
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I am positive the clutch disc is correct - I double checked the "flywheel side" on the disc. The clutch pedal is only sticking because of the linkage - with the rod that was there originally (long one), I wasn't able to adjust it short enough to not hit the bellcrank end against the frame. When I used the shorter clutch rod, I couldn't get the linkage long enough to disengage the clutch.

On the fork itself, I have about 2" of travel before the throwout bearing hits against the pressure plate. After that, the best pedal adjustment I could get would push the clutch fork another inch or so, which I thought would be enough to disengage the clutch. It wasn't. How far does that damn thing have to travel back to work right?

Wishing I could get this working so I could drive around the block. So close!
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Unread 04-15-2013, 06:45 PM   #23
Koko4
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I got a new set of bushings / clips / adjusting rod for the CJ. The adjusting rod that I bought is at least 2" longer than the one that was on my Jeep, but otherwise they seem identical. Also, I cleaned off my bellcrank a lot and was about to install the new bushings, but I noticed something. There is only a slot for the C clip on the transmission side of the bellcrank (where the grease fill hole is). On the other side, there is not a slit for the clip to fit into. Can anyone with a 72-75 CJ-5 confirm that this is the case, before I go out and buy a new bellcrank tomorrow? I don't want that bushing slipping back into the bellcrank. I have only been able to find pictures of bellcranks for 76+ CJ-5's and they all had two slits. Thanks guys, I think I may be close to getting this fixed!
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