Rebuilt Engine - New Clutch / Pressure Plate Issues After Installation - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Rebuilt Engine - New Clutch / Pressure Plate Issues After Installation

FS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great valueSPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!Jeep Grand Cherokee Mirror - Side View

Reply
Unread 04-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #1
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
Rebuilt Engine - New Clutch / Pressure Plate Issues After Installation

I rebuilt an AMC 304, and while I was at it I put in a new clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing set. I torqued everything to spec. Yesterday I mated the engine and transmission and dropped it in the Jeep.

After hooking up the clutch linkage, I think I have a problem. The pedal will press down, then sort of slam down onto the floor and stick there. I have to put my toes under it and pull up for it to pop back out. Now, simultaneously while I am pushing down on the clutch, the front driver's side portion of the body is lifting slightly. It feels like I'm pushing against a brick wall, and then all of a sudden it gives. I think what is happening is the splines on the pressure plate are bowing inward, and then getting pushed inward too far, causing the pedal to slam on the floor and stay there. Then, when it pops free, it seems like the pressure plate splines are popping back out. Now I know it's a new clutch..and they're supposed to be a bit stiff, but good LORD.

A friend told me to take the rubber protective boot off of the shift fork, and to peer in there and make sure the fork is correctly mated to the throwout bearing. He thought maybe the fork was somehow behind the throwout bearing, and not in the grooves. I did this, peered in, and it looks fine. There is about 1.5" of play in the fork before it become impossible to push. I have also tried adjusting the linkage to shorten the distance that the linkage pushes back on the fork. It shortened, but it still slammed and stuck to the floor like I described before.

I am at a loss. The fenders and grill are currently off the Jeep. I'm having a friend fabricate two brackets to attach to the frame mount, and then to the body at the front..hopefully to give it some more stability. I don't think this will correct the problem, though.

Has anyone ever encountered this problem before? Any help/tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am only about a day away from hearing this Jeep run for the first time in two years, and I am super excited, to say the least. Thanks everyone.

Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 08:34 PM   #2
Ivehad4
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: salem, VA
Posts: 133
Crawl under and look at where the clutch linkage is attached to the firewall. Mine rusted out terribly there (I suspect due to years of exposure to brake fluid). Your body may be bending when you work the clutch. I modified my clutch linkage to mount to the frame. Its been that way for about 5 years with no problems.
__________________
1978 CJ7 304/T150
1959 Willys CJ5 F4/T90
1995 XJ 4.0
1998 TJ 4.0
Ivehad4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 08:36 PM   #3
twinstickd20
Cause 2 is better than 1
 
twinstickd20's Avatar
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: nashville
Posts: 1,853
Check to see if the ball that the fork leverages on is in right, I had the same problem and come to find out the ball had fallen out and was rolling in the bottom of the bellhousing.
__________________
My Build Threadhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...seven-1090289/
twinstickd20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 08:48 PM   #4
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
It is - it is sitting in the little dimple on the fork itself. Also, doesn't the linkage come from the pedal, through the firewall, where it attaches to the horizontal rod against the frame? Then at the end of that horizontal tube, there is a bracket with 2 bolts that I attached to the transmission bellhousing, and from there it goes straight back to the shift fork. Here's a pic: (I'm hoping I hooked it all up right..this was the only way it looked like it could go to me):





^^This is where the bracket will be, hopefully to reduce the body's travel upwards as I push down on the clutch pedal...


Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 09:08 PM   #5
twinstickd20
Cause 2 is better than 1
 
twinstickd20's Avatar
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: nashville
Posts: 1,853
Quote:
Originally Posted by Koko4
It is - it is sitting in the little dimple on the fork itself. Also, doesn't the linkage come from the pedal, through the firewall, where it attaches to the horizontal rod against the frame? Then at the end of that horizontal tube, there is a bracket with 2 bolts that I attached to the transmission bellhousing, and from there it goes straight back to the shift fork. Here's a pic: (I'm hoping I hooked it all up right..this was the only way it looked like it could go to me):

^^This is where the bracket will be, hopefully to reduce the body's travel upwards as I push down on the clutch pedal...
It looks to me that the bell crank is installed wrong, that's the horizontal bar. Or maybe the rod from the pedal is adjusted out too long.
__________________
My Build Threadhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...seven-1090289/
twinstickd20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 09:15 PM   #6
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
I tried adjusting the pedal rod in as short as I could get it (trying to stop the "slam" from happening). When you say the horizontal bar may be installed wrong - how would I go about installing that any differently? I am looking at this PDF right now and trying to see if there are any differences between it and me:

http://oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Part%202%20Section%20A.pdf
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 09:46 PM   #7
twinstickd20
Cause 2 is better than 1
 
twinstickd20's Avatar
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: nashville
Posts: 1,853
In this pic it just doesn't look like the arm on the bell crank can provide enough throw and that it may be going beyond flat and actually pulling the fork back forward and that could be why the pedal sticks. I wonder if you could flip the bell crank so the pedal rod attaches were the fork rod is attached now and vice versa?
image-2352437601.jpg  
__________________
My Build Threadhttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...seven-1090289/
twinstickd20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-09-2013, 10:32 PM   #8
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
Thank you twinstickd - I'm going to look at that in the morning to see if that could be the issue. I thought of a few things: I don't have a return spring.. that may be a factor.

I checked earlier for the little pivot ball inside of my bellhousing, which I do believe is there. I was looking at other pictures on the internet and found this one:


Umm, this could be a problem. Am I supposed to have that rectangular-looking black "holder" between my shift fork and throwout bearing? Because I most definitely do not. And I am dreading dropping the transmission that I just installed last night! Better now than after it's all the way back together, though. So..good news or bad news? ...

I was working with a friend that installed the new throwout bearing while I was doing something else, and he just assured me that there was a return spring and the pivot ball, and that both were in place. That was another possibility that I was entertaining.

'75 CJ-5 if that helps.

EDIT: I think I may have it. Could it be that I don't have a clutch return spring?? I am pretty sure there's supposed to be a spring between the shift fork and the linkage..this MAY be what I need to fix the problem. Next question... I would most likely go to Ace, or somewhere similar to get this spring..so I would need to know the approximate length of what to get. I know there's supposed to be another spring under the dash, but I am thinking this isn't as important as the return spring.
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-10-2013, 02:34 PM   #9
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
Bump - any other ideas guys? I'm about to go back down and start tinkering. Got a spring today to try as a clutch return spring until I can get the proper one.
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-10-2013, 05:58 PM   #10
ASteve
Web Wheeler
 
ASteve's Avatar
1972 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Nor-Cal, California
Posts: 1,552
Your bell crank looks like it is adjusted to far down. Here's how mine is adjusted.
bell-crank.jpg  
__________________
http://www.astevecali.com
ASteve is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-11-2013, 08:09 PM   #11
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
Thank you Asteve - mine looks completely different than that. I have tried to adjust it as far out as I can, but there is no possible way for me to get that angle on my linkage. The farthest I can get is for it the bellcrank to point horizontally, as in my picture. Everything is adjusted as short as possible. To get the same angle as you, I would need a new and shorter connection from the bellcrank to the clutch pedal.

I am thinking that maybe when I put this new tub on, that somehow I royally screwed it up and pushed the tub forward 2-3"? I have had it connected and driving since I did that, though, so I'd like to think I did things at least mostly correct. Although, after I put the new tub on, I had to get shorter fenders.. I was never sure as to why.

So is there a way to buy a shorter connecting rod from the bellcrank to the pedal, because there's no way in hell I'm going to take the body off to move it back a couple of inches. I'm at a loss here - entertaining all ideas as to why this is happening. I've been trying to wrap my head around this problem for the past 2-3 days, without success. I'm going crazy!
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2013, 06:38 AM   #12
thompsoj22
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: ridgecrest, ca
Posts: 320
tub position

moving the tub forward affected the distance from the pedal to the bellcrank. first adjust the rod from bellcrank to clutch arm to slightly less than 50% extended than cut the actuating rod from pedal to bellcrank to the correct length and thread it, should be simple.
thompsoj22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2013, 07:44 PM   #13
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
I got the engine running and tried to engage the clutch. No luck. The vehicle was in neutral, and I tried pushing down the clutch pedal and shifting into 1st gear. It wouldn't shift, indicating to me that the clutch wasn't disengaged. When pushing the shifter back against 1st gear, the Jeep would slowly start to crawl forward. I then uninstalled the new (shorter) clutch rod and installed the old, longer one. I tried again and had the same problem. Due to this, I'm thinking it's got to be a problem inside the bellhousing. I'm not looking forward to taking the transmission back off..but doesn't this indicate that it should be a problem with the clutch / pressure plate / throwout bearing setup? Or am I missing something?

When I installed the shorter clutch rod, I had everything adjusted out to the max (the bellcrank-to-shift fork rod and clutch rod), and when I installed the longer one, I had everything almost as short as I could get it..it was the only way it would fit together. Thanks in advance - I can post whatever pictures / video if you guys need it to help me.
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2013, 09:18 PM   #14
lucdog
Web Wheeler
 
lucdog's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , Il.
Posts: 7,962
The spring on the adjusting rod just keeps the adjuster in place.
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
lucdog is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-13-2013, 09:45 PM   #15
Koko4
Registered User
1975 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 88
I know - I'm thinking this could be a problem with the throwout bearing. Was it supposed to "click" into the pressure plate?

I have looked through the fork hole - I can see the pivot ball, and the small spring on the inside of the bellhousing. So those are both fine. From looking at it, the throwout bearing looks like it's mated to the fork correctly..
Koko4 is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.