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Unread 01-22-2013, 12:37 PM   #31
Greekcj5
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I have access to both. Just bought a digital one not too long ago but still have a few analog ones too. that sounds like what swatson was saying to do. I'll do that tonight and hope for the best. I'll follow up with results tonight or tomorrow. Thanks guys

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Unread 01-22-2013, 01:25 PM   #32
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Good luck with it! I'd much rather use mics than Plasti-gage. Plasti-gage saves guys who don't have mics the expense, but it's no substitute if you have them.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 01:29 PM   #33
Greekcj5
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Awesome. Not like the plastigauge is expensive but its one last thing i have to buy and i trust my micrometer more seeing as I've used it hundreds of times already. Thank you
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Unread 01-22-2013, 02:00 PM   #34
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That's definitely the right way to go. I guess I should've asked if you had access to mics.


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Unread 01-22-2013, 02:12 PM   #35
Greekcj5
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I'll post how it went tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 11:28 AM   #36
Greekcj5
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Morning gents. So here's the latest. Seeing as the pistons were already installed i tried plastigauge first. The clearances are as follows:
Cyl 1-.001
Cyl 2-.0013
Cyl 3-.001
Cyl 4-.0013
Cyl 5-.0015
Cyl 6-.0012
Cyl 7-.001
Cyl 8-.001

In all it looks like i have four looser ones and four tight ones. Not sure how to arrange them to work though. Any suggestions?
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Unread 01-23-2013, 11:54 AM   #37
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That looks awfully tight, buddy. I don't have an AMC manual but I'd expect to see closer to .0018 to .0022 ish. What does the book say?

You may need to pull the pistons and mic everything.


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Unread 01-23-2013, 12:04 PM   #38
Greekcj5
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The book its pissing me off cause all it says is tighten the caps to the torque specs listed in the figure provided. I might try getting a Haynes instead of the Chilton i have unless there's a better alternative. I'm also gonna try replacing the.001s with the old bearings and check the clearance with those on. Maybe the crank didn't get ground down to .020 under after all.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 12:08 PM   #39
Matt1981CJ7
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Spec is .001 - .003, so he's definitely on the tight side of spec. Mine were all around .002. Connecting rod torque spec is 33 ft-lbs.

Do the pistons move smoothly and freely in the cylinders when they aren't connected to the crank?

What did your main bearings plasti-gauge at?

Matt
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Unread 01-23-2013, 12:23 PM   #40
Greekcj5
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Everything moves nice when not connected. Checked ring gap and it was about.0016 which is barely bigger than spec. Crank also moves freely without anything connected. Forgot what mains gauged at but i remember them being within specs. Another thing, my Chilton says my end cap torque is 30 ft-lbs max but you say its 33 so that throws my gauging off by 3 ft-lbs which means there's probably less than .001 for a few of them.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 01:04 PM   #41
Matt1981CJ7
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I wouldn't waste your time trying the old bearings, or even .010 bearings, they will be too sloppy.

The reason I asked about the main bearings is the rear main journal has a different spec. (.002-.004") versus journals 1-4 (.001-.003").

Mains torque to 100 ft-lbs.

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Unread 01-23-2013, 01:20 PM   #42
Greekcj5
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I torqued the mains to 100 and it moved pretty easily. What about using the .020 on the rod end and one of the old ones on the cap to give it a little more clearance? Other than that the only thing i can think of is taking it back to the machine shop which i really don't want to do at this point.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 01:53 PM   #43
Greekcj5
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I just found this web site that says the rod end torque is 35-40. i need to know what the torque should be before i can continue cause if it's 33 I'm 3 ft-lbs low and if it's 35-40 then I'm 5-10 ft-lbs low which makes a huge difference.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 01:58 PM   #44
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Is there any motor oil on the pistons or are they in there dry?
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Unread 01-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #45
Greekcj5
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I loaded each one with assembly lube
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amc 304 , cj5 , crankshaft , engine rebuild

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