I have access to both. Just bought a digital one not too long ago but still have a few analog ones too. that sounds like what swatson was saying to do. I'll do that tonight and hope for the best. I'll follow up with results tonight or tomorrow. Thanks guys
Morning gents. So here's the latest. Seeing as the pistons were already installed i tried plastigauge first. The clearances are as follows:
In all it looks like i have four looser ones and four tight ones. Not sure how to arrange them to work though. Any suggestions?
The book its pissing me off cause all it says is tighten the caps to the torque specs listed in the figure provided. I might try getting a Haynes instead of the Chilton i have unless there's a better alternative. I'm also gonna try replacing the.001s with the old bearings and check the clearance with those on. Maybe the crank didn't get ground down to .020 under after all.
Everything moves nice when not connected. Checked ring gap and it was about.0016 which is barely bigger than spec. Crank also moves freely without anything connected. Forgot what mains gauged at but i remember them being within specs. Another thing, my Chilton says my end cap torque is 30 ft-lbs max but you say its 33 so that throws my gauging off by 3 ft-lbs which means there's probably less than .001 for a few of them.
I torqued the mains to 100 and it moved pretty easily. What about using the .020 on the rod end and one of the old ones on the cap to give it a little more clearance? Other than that the only thing i can think of is taking it back to the machine shop which i really don't want to do at this point.
I just found this web site that says the rod end torque is 35-40. i need to know what the torque should be before i can continue cause if it's 33 I'm 3 ft-lbs low and if it's 35-40 then I'm 5-10 ft-lbs low which makes a huge difference.