Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Rebuilding master brake cylinder + pretty photos

911 views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  73CJ5-blue 
#1 ·
So my master cylinder was leaking and basically destroyed my Booster paint. I am in the process of getting lots of my parts powder coated so I thought why not give it a try. Had the PC take it all apart and used a crinkle black instead of satin. It came out much better than expected. Check out the photos. (he is also doing my disassembled booster in satin right now)

So now I need to put it back together and I am having a hard time finding a kit for the replacement. I believe I should hone it also just to do it diligence since it is all apart.

So my questions are:

What kit do I need for the rebuild?

What honing attachment buy?

Anyone with previous with more knowledge than me (That means all of you) please pipe in.

Thanks
 

Attachments

See less See more
4
#11 ·
Code:
yeah that is not what I am asking for. I just had this freshly powder coated. The rebuilt ones are all bare metal.

I guess I could buy a new one and transfer the innards from it to this one if I can't find an actual rebuild kit for it.
Facts are facts.
Fact-You're messing with your brakes...........
Sure hope the baking temp for the coating doesn't warp or distort the cyl bore on the M/C.
Carry on,
LG
 
#6 ·
The MC shown in the photos appears to be an after market China sourced.
OEM for my 73 was manufactured by Bendix , which has a completely different body.
The NAPA part # rebuild kit for the OEM Bendix body is 1630.
This kit contains all the rubber components, springs, and the two metal spools.
This kit might fit the aftermarket MC body.
Compare the aftermarket MC parts to the NAPA kit parts, while in the sealed plastic bags.
If not identical, suggest purchasing a new MC for the application.
Went to several auto parts stores and none had the OEM Bendix body MC, all aftermarket,
probably because most all of the Bendix bodies are scrap from over bore cylinder corrosion.
Got lucky and got a rebuilt Bendix style MC at O'Rilley's Auto.
O'Rilley wanted more for the OEM Bendix body core than the cost of the rebuilt one, so kept the Bendix core.
 
#13 ·
Weapon, I know I have not had success buying rebuilt MC in the past, from any of the auto stores. They usually fail in some way or another. But, if you can buy a kit for your specific model, then give it a try.

Most of the rebuilt MC I bought and had taken apart usually have the same problem. Leaking around the cylinder bore, due to being pitted or a worn area that could not be honed correctly. They last about a couple of months before you start noticing the paint coming off the Booster and the paint starting to bubble off the fender at the bottom. I recommend buying a new one too. I bought a new one from NAPA, took it apart, sandblasted it and powder coated it at home. The powder is so durable, the brake fluid has no effect on the coating if it accidentally comes in contact with it. Not paint, that will come off as if you are using paint stripper.

Buying new or rebuilding, make sure you sand the top of the cast body flat. Use a piece of glass covered with wet/sand paper and polish the top where the cover sits on. This will insure the top cover is sealed against the cast body and prevent leaks of brake fluid while driving and bouncing around. Manufactures usually fly cut the tops flat but there are small ridges from the cutting tool that must be dealt with.
 
#14 ·
The issue with getting a new MC these days is the assembly will be made in China or Mexico and the body is not the OEM and will not have the identical OEM casting shape.
If the corrosion pits are not too deep, hone out the bore until all the pits are gone and install a complete rebuilt kit.
Prefer not to have a non OEM MC in my USA made CJ5.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top