Rebuilding a Carter Carb - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 06:15 AM
HighCountry
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The best is some El Cheapo non-detergent 30w. Just take a small sharp object and pop it out of the hole. Oil underneath it with a few drops, then soak the wick and squeeze out the excess and reinstall it. Too much will sling onto the cap and cause your spark to crossfire.

Bruce

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post #32 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 08:22 AM
kharmajavah
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Cool, thanks for the info.

BTW, I was totally wrong about the pinging going away. Wishful thinking I guess. I'm just going to stick to 93 octane from here on out...seems to be the simplest solution (and the only one that works, other than retarding the timing to 3-4*).
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post #33 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 09:59 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollbar View Post
X2

30W....10W30....10W40 or does it matter. Do U saturate it or just soak it & stop.
A few drops of engine oil is called for on the advance plate oil wick.

I have had to remove a few to free them up. They were obvious though, you couldn't turn the rotor by hand and have it spring back smooth.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #34 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 10:00 AM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by kharmajavah View Post
Cool, thanks for the info.

BTW, I was totally wrong about the pinging going away. Wishful thinking I guess. I'm just going to stick to 93 octane from here on out...seems to be the simplest solution (and the only one that works, other than retarding the timing to 3-4*).
I have no pings at 91 octane and only a few at 89.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #35 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 12:04 PM
kharmajavah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
I have no pings at 91 octane and only a few at 89.
Yeah, I think I'm in the same situation. I have pinging under load at 87, when I use 93 it's gone. Just driving slow around town, it doesn't ping much even with 87. I've just been tooling around, trying to get it to not ping using 87. I've seafoamed it, used Chevron with Techron treatment, and dorked with the timing and vacuum advance. I determined that it's not the vacuum advance, and since I've seafoamed the heck out of it I don't *think* that carbon is the problem. (Although, it pings much less since I did the seafoam treatment, so I think that carbon deposits at least contributed to the pinging).

I guess the beast just needs more octane.
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post #36 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 12:13 PM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by kharmajavah View Post

I guess the beast just needs more octane.
When they 'do' need more octane, normally the mileage increases with the use of the higher octane. If they don't, the opposite can happen.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #37 of 88 Old 02-16-2008, 01:49 PM
kharmajavah
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
When they 'do' need more octane, normally the mileage increases with the use of the higher octane. If they don't, the opposite can happen.
In the past, I've noticed better mileage with higher octane, but I've never documented/tracked it. I've started as of last week, so I'm going to run one more round of regular through it, then switch to 93 for a while, and try to measure the difference.
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post #38 of 88 Old 02-21-2008, 07:33 PM
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Sorry, I've been away from the 'puter for a bit

I needed to go 6 turns out to eliminate the pinging all together.

[My mother in law drives it every day for work and can't hear the pinging when it happens. I even took her for a ride and made it make the noises and she couldn't pick it out from the doors rattleing and the engine making its I'm running 60mph without overdrive busy sounds.]

So I did that to protect it. It still scratches the tires when getting on it. I mentioned in another thread I do not know the compression of this rebuilt motor and I de-carboned the crap out of it pryor to messing with the vacuum advance. Replaced the intake manifold gasket as well. My non-flamable Brake Cleaner almost stalled the motor when I sprayed the manifold at cylinders 4,5.

Good to know about oiling the dizzy pad for the cent' advance. I will look at it this weekend. I'm going to do some running saturday morning.
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post #39 of 88 Old 02-29-2008, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
wessy
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So I ordered the rebuild kit from NAPA the number on the side of my carb had a big 3 then above it upside down was 6-2373 she said they had none with that number for rebuild kits and ordered me a 6-237. This sound right to you guys.

89 YJ 4.2L, TF999, NP231, 31X10.5X15R TSL, No sway bars or track bars, RE 4" lift, Optima red top

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post #40 of 88 Old 02-29-2008, 05:41 PM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by wessy View Post
So I ordered the rebuild kit from NAPA the number on the side of my carb had a big 3 then above it upside down was 6-2373 she said they had none with that number for rebuild kits and ordered me a 6-237. This sound right to you guys.
Yes, the kits come with all kinds of gaskets and things for various emissions systems. It is best to only take apart what you have to to clean it and not change adjustments unless you have to.

Here in Canada, they just have the one kit as far as I have ever seen that comes with stuff my carb doesn't need.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #41 of 88 Old 02-29-2008, 06:46 PM
DannibusX
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Napa's rebuild kit comes with multiple gaskets. You won't need all of them, just replace them as you go and match the gaskets up and you should have no problems.

1986 CJ7, 4.2L I6, Carter BBD, Rancho 2.5" Lift, Team Rush.

Coming soon: Exhaust, Wheels and Tires, Axle Gearing.
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post #42 of 88 Old 02-29-2008, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
wessy
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ok thanks I get it on monday I ill try to fix all the vac leaks then n utter and I wil update you guys prob next weekend when I dont have midterms

89 YJ 4.2L, TF999, NP231, 31X10.5X15R TSL, No sway bars or track bars, RE 4" lift, Optima red top

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post #43 of 88 Old 03-07-2008, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
wessy
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ok so I'm fixing the carb tonight and doing intake/exhaust gaskets I will keep you updated since I may need help I hae never done anything like this before. 2 questions first should I move the stepper pins halfway out when the carb is apart or after I do the nutter. I was planning on doing it at hte same time. Also how do I set my timing I am planning on setting it 8-9* BTDC so I was wondering how t do that after the nutter.

89 YJ 4.2L, TF999, NP231, 31X10.5X15R TSL, No sway bars or track bars, RE 4" lift, Optima red top

CANADIANWHEELER
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post #44 of 88 Old 03-07-2008, 11:17 AM
Mike Romain
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I would 'not' recommend you do both at once, too many places to go wrong. (my pickup coil in my distributor decided to fail the day I did my Nutter, that was fun to figure out)

I would recommend you do the carb first. Pay 'very' close attention to where the idle screws are set, screw them in all the way and gently seat them counting the turns so they go back exact.

Once you have that and the new gaskets in and running, the stepper should set the pins in the center by default if everything is put together right. No issues if it doesn't, you can move the pins from the top usually or just take off the stepper and move them.

For the timing, you need a timing light or a vacuum gauge. You can turn the distributor until you get the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of vacuum. That will get it close, but a light is really needed.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #45 of 88 Old 03-07-2008, 11:20 AM
luckycheesehead
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Mike's got it...

here's the Nutter process once you've got it all back together:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/how-nutter-bypass-522262/

Last edited by luckycheesehead; 03-07-2008 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Cause Mike knows...
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