I have 67 CJ 5 with a 225, Dana 44 4.89 in the rear and a Dana 27A that the differential is shot in the front. Is the cheapest easiest option to get this thing rolling again to use a Lockright locker? I am in the dark on axle work--I'm not even sure what all is damaged and missing from the front end. I did a frame off resto on a 47 but had a shop do the rear diff--that was a mistake. Any help or options is appreciated.
Somebody help me out with this please. Would I be better off buying another different axle instead of trying to rebuild this one? The question then becomes which one of course. If there's a book out there that would be good reading on this topic let me know as well as threads that you might be aware of.
Except parts for the D27 are getting harder and harder to find. IIRC, per Randy Lyman (Randy's Ring & Pinion,) you should only keep a D27 if you're going a true resto, and not a restomod or trying to build an off-road rig. The D27 was OK in its day, but there are plenty of better options out there now... (I'd have to check my copy of Differntials to make sure that's what Randy said, but if he did say it, I'd take it as good advice.)
Favour - could you take pictures of the differential cover with at least one ruler in the picture? I've been trying to find a good pic for a while, and haven't had any luck. Full resolution is just fine - and if/when you do, send it to 5-90 AT naxja DOT org, please.
I have a dana 27 witht the same gears in it hub to hub and new brakes that i will sell u for 150. Ran great but i just went with waggy 44 under my cj. I am only an hour from you. I also have spare axle shafts i will sell you for another 100. Please let me know. Chris email@example.com
First, you need to drop the cover and see what is broken. Without this info we can't answer your question correctly. You have some options with both the 27 and 30 axles to strengthen them up but we will go over them once we know what the damage is.
Yep.. pop the cover and see what's broken. I have a Dana 27 in my garage that has 4.88 gearing.. the spider gears are shot on it.. but if something else is broken in your axle.. I'll harvest the parts and sell em to you cheaply!
I'm not looking to do a true resto, but I don't want a hack job either. To start with there's no cover. The pin that's about 1/2" in diameter is broken into several pieces, one of which punched through the pumpkin. I can probably braze the hole shut. The ring and pinion appear in good shape. The differential carrier is screwed up where the pin wallowed out the holes and some bolts are broken off and mangled that attach the carrier to the ring gear. If the axle that the guy is offering to sell for $150 works out, that may be the end of my troubles. I don't think I'll be doing anything that wild with it so the 27 should last assuming it is in good shape. Thanks for the help and I'm open for more knowledge on this issue anyway. My next series of questions will probably be upgrading the manual steering, but not to power necessarily.
It sounds like your carrier is broken. This is common for the Dana 25/27, I've seen a lot of broken carriers in my quest for Willys parts. They're just not very thick at all in some places on it, so they break real easy under stress. The best thing to do is buy a complete axle and use whatever parts you need out of it. That's what I did. Also make sure you get a Dana 27 if that's what you have. I would have thought a 1947 would have the Dana 25. I think the bearings, axle shafts, and some parts may be the same but the carrier and ring gear are entirely incompatible. The Dana 25 ring gear is larger, but the Dana 27 ring gear has more bolts mounting it to the carrier.
1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress)
1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
The axle is for the 67 CJ 5, the 47 is ok in that department. As you state, I'm pursuing buying a complete axle from a guy here in texas. It needs a spacer on the fuel pump to reduce the pressure, but I haven't had a chance to put that in yet.
I'd grab the extra axle for that price. As for beefing up the carrier, your best bet is a Powr Lok. They are getting a bit hard to find but are brutally strong and you get a good LS to boot. Carefully inspect the R+P for damage as replacing them is going to significently increase the cost of replacemant.
Do yourself a favor and at a convenient time, drop the knuckles and take a look at the bearings and races. The knuckle seals go bad and most folks simply allow them to run dry, which allows the bearings to go south.