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Unread 09-29-2008, 09:12 PM   #1
jatepper
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Rear Yoke Seal Replacement

Just my luck... Got finished rebuilding the rear axles and everything assembled. Took the Jeep offroading yesterday and noticed oil collecting on the bottom of the differential cover. My first thought was I did not seal the diff cover good enough when I put everthing back together from the axle rebuild. When we were on the trail, I got under the Jeep to take a better look and noticed the leak was coming from the yoke on the rear diff.

I have 1 piece rear axles and a detroit locker. My question is what is it going to take to replace the seal. I know I have to remove both axles and pull the locker/gear carrier to get to the yoke nut.

Am I going to have to take backlash measurements and stuff to replace the seal or is it plug and play with whatever shims I may already have in there? I dont know if there are shims or not at this point.

Please let me know what you guys think

EDIT: I have some sort of aftermarket pinion since I have 4.10 gears if this makes a difference on the purchase of a new seal...

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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

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Unread 09-30-2008, 07:57 AM   #2
jatepper
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bump 10 char
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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:07 AM   #3
atomicflatulenc
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I have the same issue. Interested in replies.

I think you just need to pull the yoke from what I've been reading. The tricky part (and the part I didn't understand too clearly) was how to figure out what the nut was previously torqued to.

1. remove driveshaft.
2. get torque specs from the nut.
3. remove nut, yoke and seal.
4. reverse with new seal

Is this correct?
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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:23 AM   #4
DT5150
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that's what i did. i just took a torque wrench and kept adjusting it until i found the right amount. removed the nut and yoke, swap the seal, and then replaced the nut (with a new one. i think you're supposed to use a new one so i did) and the yoke. then reattached the drive shaft. no more leak and took less than an hour. if you're going to use the same nut, you could just mark the nut and the yoke so you'd know about where the nut was before you loosened it. not the preferred method, but if you don't have a torque wrench it could get you by.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:27 AM   #5
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150 View Post
that's what i did. i just took a torque wrench and kept adjusting it until i found the right amount. removed the nut and yoke, swap the seal, and then replaced the nut (with a new one. i think you're supposed to use a new one so i did) and the yoke. then reattached the drive shaft. no more leak and took less than an hour. if you're going to use the same nut, you could just mark the nut and the yoke so you'd know about where the nut was before you loosened it. not the preferred method, but if you don't have a torque wrench it could get you by.

Since I have an aftermarket pinion, will I need a special seal of some sort? It really sucks because I just had the axles out and everything!
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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:33 AM   #6
foggybottombob
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I don't know what an AMC 20 seal looks like but Dana 30 and Dana 44 pinion seals can go in by just taking off the pinion nut, pulling off the yoke and installing the seal. Then you just put the yoke and pinion nut back on. You don't have to do anything with the axle shafts or diff cover.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:38 AM   #7
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggybottombob View Post
I don't know what an AMC 20 seal looks like but Dana 30 and Dana 44 pinion seals can go in by just taking off the pinion nut, pulling off the yoke and installing the seal. Then you just put the yoke and pinion nut back on. You don't have to do anything with the axle shafts or diff cover.
I must have been mistaking. I just looked again at the 4wd hardware parts break down for the model 20 and I think you are correct.
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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:57 AM   #8
mcmud
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You should determine the rotational torque necessary to rotate the pinion, carrier and the axles with both rear wheels and drums removed, using an inch/pound torque wrench.

This will in theory reset the pinion bearings pre-load to near existing.

Use a new pinion nut and very gradually sneak up on the rotational torque reading you found.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 08:59 AM   #9
DT5150
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yeah you don't have to mess with any of that stuff. just the yoke etc.

so your pumpkin is aftermarket? is that what you're saying?
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Unread 09-30-2008, 09:09 AM   #10
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150 View Post
yeah you don't have to mess with any of that stuff. just the yoke etc.

so your pumpkin is aftermarket? is that what you're saying?

NOt an aftermarket pumpkin. I am just assuming my pinion is aftermarket because I have 4.10 gears.

My buddy just told me he thinks when replacing the seal, the collapsible pinion spacer will expand when removing the nut and therefore backlash will have to be retaken. Any opinions on this?
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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

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Unread 09-30-2008, 09:10 AM   #11
SuB8HaVeN
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It's pretty danged simple to replace. Just disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and take care not to damage the U-joint bearings (tape the caps to keep them in place). The pinion nut on mine was loose enough to remove by hand so obviously I didn't bother taking down the torque specs. After removing the pinion nut, pull the pinion shaft out and you can see the seal. I just got a crowbar (you can use a hammer as well) and pulled the old seal off. Don't worry about damaging the old seal, you're not reusing it anyways. Put the new seal in place in the proper orientation, and then gently and evenly hammer it into place hammering in a circle motion. I just tightened the pinion nut to my liking (pretty tight) and called it a day. I haven't had any leaking or other problems since.

I don't think it's a big deal to measure the torque on the pinion nut when removing it. I never did and after that installed a locker and Moser shafts, therefore having to take it all apart, and the ring and pinion looked like new still. Plus that was with the pinion nut being so loose from the PO all that time.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 09:25 AM   #12
DT5150
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ah, i gotcha. in that case, i would say no, you shouldn't need a special seal. just the stock amc 20 pinion seal.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 10:28 AM   #13
JeepHammer
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Some people get lucky with just removing the pinion nut and yoke, and pulling the seal.
I never was that lucky, I always had to remove the carrier and pinion, and use a new crush sleeve when putting things back together.
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Unread 09-30-2008, 02:43 PM   #14
atomicflatulenc
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That's what i'm afraid of. How will you know if you need a new crush sleeve?
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Unread 09-30-2008, 03:29 PM   #15
NH2112
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You always need a new crush sleeve, torquing the nut down crushes the sleeve and renders it unusable.
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