[jeepinarkansas]

I got the rear yoke nut off, just looking for some tips on removing the yoke from the rear diff so I can replace my pinion seal.
Thanks,
Jake

[BESRK]

I just use a hammer and "lightly" tap the yoke ears from the backside to slide it off the pinion splines..

[SuB8HaVeN]

Wow, mine was so loose that once I got the nut off I was able to just slide it off with little effort. Is that bad?

[jeepinarkansas]

I got the yoke off and the seal out. Is it normal to have a little up/down and side to side play on the output shaft?

[mcmud]

Yes it's (end play). Normal once the yoke is pulled since the preload is off the pinion gear. Smear a little gear lube on the yoke and seal surface prior to install. Use a NEW nut, and hopefully you noted the amount of torque required to turn the pinion. Tighten the nut very gradual until end play is removed and then minutely until the amount of originally torque required to turn the pinion is reached then add 3-5 in. lb.

[jeepinarkansas]

should I follow that procedure even if i neglected to measure the torque before hand?

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by jeepinarkansas

should I follow that procedure even if i neglected to measure the torque before hand?

That would hardly be possible now, wouldn't it.

The amount of preload on the pinion gear bearing's is critical since you use both forward and reverse motions in the vehicle. the helical cut in the gear actually pushes against the ring gear in forward and pulls against the ring gear in reverse. This requires an enormous amount of force considering the slight area of contact between the two gears. There is a controlled amount of pressure between the pinion's rear bearing and the front bearing controlled by the collapseable crush sleeve between the two bearing faces and a nut that will not back out.

I haven't a clue as to what limits of use you subject the Jeep to or for that matter the level of maintenance your aim is, but I would first suggest you obtain a repair manual or if you have one use it prior to removing any part for a repair.

This fourm is a wonderful location to share experiences, to receive or give opinions and seek advice with issues that are not quite clear or subject to interpretations.

So here is mine. If I were to be forced, i.e. on the road or trail or otherwise unable to properly do the reseal, I would torque the nut to say maybe 35 ft.lbs. after I detented the second from the top thread in three places around the circumference. Then I'd plan to install a new crush sleeve seal and nut ASAP.

[OSUAV8R]

Oh Crap, I also didnt measure, but mine was so tight I had to use an impact wrench to get it off...So I dont get at what point I could have measured ? Any Advice?

[mcmud]

The amount of force required to rotate the yoke with rear axle lifted off the surface and both wheels removed.
This measurement has a factory spec. range of 15-25 in.-lbs. to compensate for the expansion caused by heat and load during operation.
A new crush sleeve may be installed after the seal is removed and always use a new nut. The nut is actually deformed to insure that it will not loosen during operation. The force required to crush the sleeve differs but should range between 200-300 ft-lbs at the onset and then it will lessen, continue tightening the nut in small increments to collapse the sleeve and preload the bearings until a very slight increase in pinion turning effort is noted. (This will require a tool to hold the yoke and a long handle wrench and often a cheater bar.) Then remove the tools and check the force required to rotate the pinion using a inch poundtorque wrench. Tighten in very gradual increments until the proper force required to turn the pinion is reached.

Or, simply ask, read, and research before removing any part!

EDIT: Assuming you are running the AMC 20 The Dana 44 uses shims instead of the crush sleeve and requires retorque of 150-200 ft.lbs.

[bdmonist]

Originally Posted by mcmud

The amount of force required to rotate the yoke with rear axle lifted off the surface and both wheels removed.
This measurement has a factory spec. range of 15-25 in.-lbs. to compensate for the expansion caused by heat and load during operation.
A new crush sleeve may be installed after the seal is removed and always use a new nut. The nut is actually deformed to insure that it will not loosen during operation. The force required to crush the sleeve differs but should range between 200-300 ft-lbs at the onset and then it will lessen, continue tightening the nut in small increments to collapse the sleeve and preload the bearings until a very slight increase in pinion turning effort is noted. (This will require a tool to hold the yoke and a long handle wrench and often a cheater bar.) Then remove the tools and check the force required to rotate the pinion using a inch poundtorque wrench. Tighten in very gradual increments until the proper force required to turn the pinion is reached.

Or, simply ask, read, and research before removing any part!

EDIT: Assuming you are running the AMC 20 The Dana 44 uses shims instead of the crush sleeve and requires retorque of 150-200 ft.lbs.

The 15-25 in-lbs of rotating torque on the pinion is without the axles and ring gear installed. It will be more with axles installed.

[OSUAV8R]

Can I reinstall the old nut measure the torque adn the install a new one adding 5 in-lb to the torque.....or is it to late and I'm screwed?

[mcmud]

Too late. Do you have access to a repair manual?

[OSUAV8R]

I have the Hayes manual and chilton.

I have not touched the yoke yet, if that makes a difference

[Bard]

The original preload is when you set the pinion in and crush the crush collar. I just replaced my yoke, since I snapped the ears off and just used an impact gun until it was tight. I replaced the seal as well and dust cover. You can torque it to spec or to what it was replaced to if it was replaced, but if you didn't touch the pinion besides the yoke and seal, just go until tight.

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by OSUAV8R

I have the Hayes manual and chilton.

I have not touched the yoke yet, if that makes a difference

Suggest you go and make a wise investment in you and your Jeeps future. Your local SEARS likely will stock a inch-pound beam torque wrench and allow a simple process like the seals replacement to be done properly and effectively. Read your manuals as the both you have will have the very same directions. An improper install can lead to incorrect gear wear ( .0001 pinion movement will drastically alter the wear pattern considerably and could lead to something breaking.