Rear Wheel Bearing Too Snug ??? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-21-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
DoubleDown
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Rear Wheel Bearing Too Snug ???

After replacing the axle seals and wheel bearing on the rear driver side of my Dana 20 it seems more difficult then it should be to spin the tire by hand when she's jacked up off the ground and in neutral. The axle is a superior one piece and was spinning easily before I replaced the leaking seals. Why is it snug now ?
How easily should I be able to rotate the tire by hand ?

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 06:10 AM
jp360cj
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Is this with the brake drum on? If so, how tight are the brake drums to the shoes?

What bearing/seal kit did you use? Did you check for proper bearing stick out before installing (this will ensure proper bearing preload).

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
DoubleDown
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Bearing stick out ? I didn't know about this, what do I measure ? I pressed the Bearing and the Lock Ring on until they stopped on the axle.
The axle became more and more difficult to turn as I tightened the bolts, so it's not the brakes
The original two thin shims are between the brake back plate and the axle housing. Do I need more ?
PS thanks for the quick response
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 08:12 AM
jp360cj
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I know that not all 1 piece shafts are the same, and I have only dealt with the newer style Moser (and similar). Superior has been out of business for a few years, but a friend of mine picked up a set of what are supposed to be Superior shafts for his WT 20. They measured out the same as the Moser shafts, so he used the Moser bearing kit to install them. Moser recommends installing the seal & spacer, then bearing before pressing the bearing on the shaft. Then measuring how much the bearing stick out of the tube. Between 0.020" and 0.080" is acceptable. If bearing sticks out too much it will have too much preload. Their suggestion is to grind the bearing spacer. I have never used the factory shims in a 1 piece install.

Here's a link to Moser's instructions: http://www.moserengineering.com/mose...structions.pdf

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 08:47 AM
Megaram
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj
I know that not all 1 piece shafts are the same, and I have only dealt with the newer style Moser (and similar). Superior has been out of business for a few years, but a friend of mine picked up a set of what are supposed to be Superior shafts for his WT 20. They measured out the same as the Moser shafts, so he used the Moser bearing kit to install them. Moser recommends installing the seal & spacer, then bearing before pressing the bearing on the shaft. Then measuring how much the bearing stick out of the tube. Between 0.020" and 0.080" is acceptable. If bearing sticks out too much it will have too much preload. Their suggestion is to grind the bearing spacer. I have never used the factory shims in a 1 piece install. Here's a link to Moser's instructions: http://www.moserengineering.com/mose...structions.pdf
That sounds right. I don't think you use the shims, as the spacer creates the proper stickout for bearing preload.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 09:02 AM
Hoover7
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^^^^ x3. FWIW, I just completed a Moser install, and needed to significantly modify those spacers to get the proper bearing preload. Too much preload and those bearing will quickly fail. And agree with Megaram, no need for shims behind the brake plate for the Moser-style conversion.

Take your time with it and good luck-

Hoover

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post #7 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
DoubleDown
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I believe I know what may have caused the tightness. Three things, first I used an skf bearing and race for a stock two piece axle. Second that race isn?t sticking out at all. Third I did install the shims. I will be taking it all apart Monday and reassemble with a Timken bearing and race. Hopefully that race will stick out just a hair and I?ll remove the shims. I will post the results. Any tricks to reattaching the ebrake cable inside the brake drum. (It?s a *****)
Thanks again for the help and quick responses
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-22-2017, 11:03 PM
80cj
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1. I am assuming the the bearing was installed in the correct orientation with the rib ring facing the axle flange. The shoulder that the bearing butts up against is very slight. Did you accidentally press the bearing over the shoulder?

2. If the bearing is correctly installed, pull your diff cover and with both wheels jacked off the ground, check if there is left-right play in the differential thrust block. if there is no play and the ends of both axle shafts are snuggly against the thrust block, that is likely the source of the problem. Remove the thrust block.
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-24-2017, 06:36 AM
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You stated that you used the two-piece bearing set. You need to get the right bearing set and it will look like the one 80cj posted above. It is standard SET 9 bearing with the retaining ring machined to a 3/8" width so that it will fit inside the CJ axle. Q-tec will have them in stock and they are local to you.
If you have access to a way to reduce the width of the retaining ring than you can pick them up at a local parts store. They were used on other vehicles as well.
One piece axles are pretty much the same in that they all used the same bearing sets, with the exception of one very early on that used ball-bearings ( rare but still supported on the Moser site). There is a difference in how they are made though. Forged versus friction-welded.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-24-2017, 03:15 PM
80cj
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I read on one of the Jeeping forums years ago that a contributing factor to the 1 piece axle bearing problems that are experienced with CJ's is that dimensional uniformity with AMC 20 housing widths is not the greatest. Some housings may be fractions of an inch wider or narrower than others. But still, whoever does the installation needs to make sure that everything turns freely as a final step of the installation.
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