Rear Frame Repair Ideas - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 17 Old 10-06-2011, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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Rear Frame Repair Ideas

NEED ADVICE:
Iíve got the rear frame members to fix, both sides. The bottoms and inside walls are rusted, and the overlap seam on the bottom is shot. This is about 14Ē long, from the back end, so here is my plan. Iíve made some poster board templates to cut new pieces from 1/8Ē plate. Iím going to cut out the plates before I start cutting the frame, hopefully it will all line up. And match the dimensions that I took before and after.

My question:
Where is the best place to cut the frame?
Middle of the sides?
Or is this a bad idea?

I want to stay out of the radii, but take a look at these pictures, and let me know what you guys think.

Fish plates? Any suggestions on where to place them?

Thank you for the advice

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Frame repair.JPG   Frame repair-3.JPG   Frame repair-2.JPG  
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post #2 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 04:08 AM
somdfisher
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I bought the frame repair pieces from Quadratec. My frame was in the same condition, if not worse. The PO backed into something with the frame it looked like. worked like a charm.

Edit: didn't mean to attach that three times, application said it crashed.
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ForumRunner_20111007_060614.jpg   ForumRunner_20111007_060756.jpg   ForumRunner_20111007_060820.jpg  

O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 04:10 AM
somdfisher
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This was after repair was made.
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O|||||O 1981 CJ7, 258, 4 speed..If it ain't cut, it ain't custom.
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 05:56 AM
keith460
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I fabricated some pieces to replace the rusted areas of the rear frame horns and they could be used on either side. My rust was not that bad but the inside pieces needed replaced along with the rear cross member too. The two inside pieces that I made have exact dimension as the original frame, including the access holes.












.
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-07-2011, 06:48 AM
nshefbuch
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I had to rebuild mine instead of patching
I used 1/8" plate and welded both sides and then diamond gussets over top of butt welds to existing frame.
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image-3447265245.jpg   image-509085757.jpg   image-4217829759.jpg  

CJ7/SOA YJ leaf/5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #6 of 17 Old 02-08-2012, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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I've made some progress,

I decided to make c-channels from some 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16 tubing, cut in half, then cut to bend it to contour. I've got splice plates made to weld on the inside where it was cut for bending




I also made new top pieces from plate, bent down for the side and also bent for contour

Top view of one side of frame:




Side view, inside of frame looking out




This is the other side ready to cut:



I've still got to work on the other side of the frame, get both pieces cut in. Then I'm planning on priming the the insides of the pieces, and start welding it in to place.

More to come later.

Last edited by jumper182; 02-19-2012 at 06:14 PM. Reason: edit pic links
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post #7 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 05:06 AM
waterdowg
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Nicw job.
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post #8 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 05:34 AM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterdowg
Nicw job.
Second that, looks awesome. I never thought of doing it that way. Keep posting up. What will you coats the frame with?

CJ7/SOA YJ leaf/5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 06:17 AM
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 06:47 AM
keith460
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Nice work jumper182, that type of craftsmanship makes it look as though the factory did it. It sets the standard on how professional work can be done when proper layout, fabrication and mindset is used for such repairs.

Great job!

.
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post #11 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 03:05 PM
CrankyD
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Quote:
Nice work jumper182, that type of craftsmanship makes it look as though the factory did it. It sets the standard on how professional work can be done when proper layout, fabrication and mindset is used for such repairs.
Didn't your jeep already do that? Nice work and documentation by all involved!

Nice work looks great
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post #12 of 17 Old 02-09-2012, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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Thanks for all the kind words! I do appreciate and lets me know I'm headed in the right direction.

I am going to have an inner fish plate on the replacement C-channel, and I'll weld that to the C-channel first, then cut an access hole in the outer rail of the frame to weld the fish plate on the other side. Then the access hole I'll flush 'plug' it and weld it in.




I'm also planning on 2 vertical gussets that run from the bottom piece along the outside rail to the top piece. Both of these will be near the aft end, just forward of the leaf spring mount. It may be over kill, but while I have access it makes sense to me to do it.




Hopefully I'll get to make some progress this weekend.

Coating: Once I get done with all the frame fixes....then my plan is to get it sand blasted, fix whatever is left, re-weld any seams that could use a little extra, and then powder coat it. I think I found a local place that will blast and powder coat the frame, axle housings, steering parts, and misc extras for a good price. To me its worth the time to not have to wire wheel/strip and try to paint in the garage.

Last edited by jumper182; 02-09-2012 at 08:31 PM. Reason: typo
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post #13 of 17 Old 02-19-2012, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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Latest Update:

I made some progress on the both sides, and I decided to make some changes.

Both sides have been wire wheeled and primed.
C Channels primed, and one with fish plates tacked in.

I'm about ready to start welding them in.....hopefully this week.

Here are the gussets cut to size.



This is the right side, I also welded the thin parts, and welded the seam that I could.



Here is the left side with some shims tacked in place.
I wasn't happy with the angle of the replacement bottom piece. I want to keep it parallel to the top piece, so I've added a filler along that edge. I also added a couple of fillers to support the forward upper end of the C channel.



Finally, here is one of the C channels, with the fish plates partially welded in place. I would have done more, but ran out of wire.



More later,
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-13-2012, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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Finished

Okay, its been a while, but its done. Both sides are complete, and rear cross member 'located'.

Here are pictures of what I did.

Inner supports tacked in place:


Inner Supports Welded in:


Lower piece with Fastenal Weld Nuts:


Lower piece welded to supports:


Inner C Channel Replacement in place:


Lower Piece Tacked In:


With both sides tacked in place, I did a check fit of the rear cross member.


When I was happy with that, I started tacking more, and cut some access holes in the outer side, to weld the inner fish plates.


Access hole on the outer side, to weld the inside fish plate:


Access hole tacked/welding started after inner fish plate was welded in:


As it turned out, I wasn't happy with how the inner fish plates turned out, so I decided to add fish plates on the inside of the frame:



I cleaned and primed the surfaces with weldable primer from Eastman.
Finished welding (I still need more practice, and to weld more often. I get to work on the jeep for a little bit, then its weeks before I can get back to it)



Finished ends, Left and Right Side:




I'm going to start a new thread on the frame dimensions, level and twist.

Mike
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post #15 of 17 Old 12-16-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
jumper182
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Frame work Done

The frame is done. All work on it is complete, its been sand blasted and powder coated.

Here are some final before and after Pictures;

Frame Before


Frame After


Frame rear section before


Frame rear section after


Frame repair before

Note the holes on the left side, that ended up as a 4"-6" long hole, that is why I chose to make the piece as long as I did.

Frame repair after



Thanks for the feed back during this, and to all the guys that posted how they did theirs.....which gave me ideas for mine.

Mike
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