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Old 04-28-2008, 02:47 PM   #16
mbev13
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Here's a pic of mine after I just replaced the shoes, drums and the auto adjust cable that was missing. As Bard mentioned, there are some parts that aren't in that kit. Some PB Blaster on the auto adjuster loosened my stuck one right up. Good luck.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22906308@N03/2449271427/

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Old 04-28-2008, 06:20 PM   #17
Redmanchew
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I did cylenders, shoes and drums when i bought mine.... 2 months later i was doing springs and self adjusters.....
if in doubt... change it out....
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To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:44 PM   #18
pnorris
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I just replace the shoes on all 4 wheels on my 1976 CJ and the best advice I can give you is spend the $20.00 or $25.00 bucks and buy the proper brake changing tools to do the job. The spring pliers etc.. It will make the job and you knuckles so much happier.
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:01 PM   #19
jfwireless
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If you are going to all that work why not just convert the rear to disk now? Made a huge difference in my 76 CJ7that originally had the larger 11 inch rear drum brakes. Still have the rear 11 inch drums if somebody needs them.

Jim
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Old 04-29-2008, 06:44 AM   #20
mbev13
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Another note, as jfwireless said. he had the larger ones. There are actually two sizes of drum and of course I got the wrong size to start. The shoes come in 1.5 and 2" widths.
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Old 04-29-2008, 07:10 PM   #21
mmerlina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfwireless View Post
If you are going to all that work why not just convert the rear to disk now? Made a huge difference in my 76 CJ7that originally had the larger 11 inch rear drum brakes. Still have the rear 11 inch drums if somebody needs them.

Jim
I have thought about this in the past.. but all the information I've gotten to do it leans me towards felling like I'm "mousing" it. A suzuki rotor here.. a nissan caliper over here, a corvette mater cylinder.. just scares me that's all. And the kits are kinda outta my ballpark right now.
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmerlina View Post
I have thought about this in the past.. but all the information I've gotten to do it leans me towards felling like I'm "mousing" it. A suzuki rotor here.. a nissan caliper over here, a corvette mater cylinder.. just scares me that's all. And the kits are kinda outta my ballpark right now.
stock is fine when new and clean and in good working order. The front is the key with close to 75% stopping power and the rear is the key to e-brakes working right.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:16 PM   #23
bigjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pnorris View Post
I just replace the shoes on all 4 wheels on my 1976 CJ and the best advice I can give you is spend the $20.00 or $25.00 bucks and buy the proper brake changing tools to do the job. The spring pliers etc.. It will make the job and you knuckles so much happier.
2x's on this. You can do this job with out brake tools, but for the love of God, just get them. They are worth every penny. Also DO NOT TEAR BOTH SIDES APART AT THE SAME TIME! This way you can look at one side together to see where everything should go. Goodluck.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:30 AM   #24
SuB8HaVeN
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Well, I just got done rebuilding my drums last night after getting the new Moser axle shafts in. It's really not that bad, I hadn't even done Jeep brakes in a while. I even ended up having to toss all my brake parts in a pile in my garage because it started raining the other night while I was trying to finish, so putting them back together was like a frigging puzzle. If you have any questions let me know. I also have a diagram (similar to what Bard posted) in my Chilton's if you want me to scan it for you when I get home tonight. Really the hardest part is working with those damn springs. I didn't use any special tools. I just used a screwdriver to pry those springs on and off, and then when that didn't work a pair of vise grips clamped on real well made it possible to pull them back on.
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:35 AM   #25
jfwireless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bard View Post
stock is fine when new and clean and in good working order. The front is the key with close to 75% stopping power and the rear is the key to e-brakes working right.

Nothing could be farther from the truth in regard to the braking improvement on my CJ. The real improvement is when the brakes are wet, you can stand on drum brakes when wet and still crash into that car in front of you. It really rains lots down hear on South Florida, and after the past three hurricanes running through 2-3 feet of water constantly you really appreciate the disk brakes.

When you lock up the front, you get more than 25% from the rear. I do not believe that 75% number on my CJ7.

I have the Suzuki rotors and 300ZX calipers, do not knock it until you experience it. It worked out really great.

Jim
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Old 08-24-2010, 03:14 PM   #26
mike76CJ5
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good info...
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:42 PM   #27
nhel
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If possible... switch to rear disc...
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