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Unread 12-16-2009, 11:15 PM   #31
bigjoe
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1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Paltz,NY
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As posted back the star adjuster all the way off. Sorry but without looking at it I dont recall the direction its going to have to go. Get a hammer and start tapping the one side of the back lip of the drum while holding pressure to the opposite side. You need to "walk" the drum over the shoes to get past the lip. Hit the right side a couple of times and then the left side and back again. Each time you hit keep pulling the other side towards you. No fun, but you can do it.

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Unread 02-02-2010, 03:44 PM   #32
kmulholl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansama View Post
Hey everyone, having trouble removing my rear drums to put in new parking brake lines and shoes, 1980 CJ7. Tried pounding with a hammer, prying with a bar, but they simply won't come off. Seems like something is holding them in the center, and they snap back into place after some prying. What approach should I try to remove these? Thanks in advance!
well ? you get them loose yet ? we're all on the edge of our seats !
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Unread 02-02-2010, 07:55 PM   #33
specwarCJ
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1982 CJ7 
 
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I had the exact same problem. I pounded on those suckers for an hour at every angle possible with a framing hammer. No luck. Then I read on this forum about the maricle product called PB Blaster. I sprayed that stuff on twice and waited about 2 hours and then hit it a couple more times and that sucker popped right off. That is a miracle rust buster. Now I simply stock that stuff in my pole barn.

Then make sure you invest in anti-seize compound and keep that in stock also and put it on every threaded bolt that you think you may ever have to take out again plus your spark plugs. It works like a champ.
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Unread 02-02-2010, 08:28 PM   #34
-AC-
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Providing you don't have the central nut holding the whole thing on (get that dust cap off!), I think RoadyMi was on the right track. I've had all brands of drums "rust weld" themselves to the axel's wheel mounting surface. I'm a big fan of the ol' Oxy-Acetylene torch for this kind of thing, as long as you DON'T go overboard and destroy the drums. If you don't have a torch kit, use a propane torch. Everyone has one, but if you don't, you can borrow one from somebody, or even buy one ($25 for a basic model). A little heat (or a lot, judiciously applied) makes this sort of thing much less painful.

I guess the question here is, when you are prying the drum off and it moves a bit, before snapping back, is the center part of the drum pulling off of the axel surface, or is the drum center flexing but stuck hard to the axel? If it is pulling away from the axel, then your shoes are holding you up. If the drum is flexing but not pulling away from the axel, then you are "rust welded" and need some PB Blaster and some heat.

Figure out if you have that center nut still or not...
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Unread 02-03-2010, 06:19 AM   #35
stansama
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kmulholl - Ran into problems with snow, and without a garage it became impossible for me to work on the jeep. Had to put it under cover.

AC - The center of the drum is holding tight, with the drum flexing from the center outward. If you could imagine me pulling on all sides of the drum at once, the drum would make a bowl shape, with the center being the bottom of the bowl. I don't see any way to get the dust cover off and remove a center nut. Seems to me that if the drum were to come off, I would have something like this: http://homebuiltairplanes.com/images..._small_007.jpg
Unfortunately this will have to wait until the spring now, unless I somehow come into some money and get a garage built. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
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Unread 02-03-2010, 03:54 PM   #36
bigjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stansama View Post
kmulholl - Ran into problems with snow, and without a garage it became impossible for me to work on the jeep. Had to put it under cover.

AC - The center of the drum is holding tight, with the drum flexing from the center outward. If you could imagine me pulling on all sides of the drum at once, the drum would make a bowl shape, with the center being the bottom of the bowl. I don't see any way to get the dust cover off and remove a center nut. Seems to me that if the drum were to come off, I would have something like this: http://homebuiltairplanes.com/images..._small_007.jpg
Unfortunately this will have to wait until the spring now, unless I somehow come into some money and get a garage built. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
The image you posted is how it will look when you break the drum free.
As posted be sure the star adjuster is backed all the way off. When it's back off all the way you should be able to turn the drum fairly easy. Sounds like the shoes may not be backed off enough and the center is rust welded to the hub. Heat and the hammer are going to be your friend. Good luck.
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Unread 02-03-2010, 06:14 PM   #37
-AC-
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Sorry about the garage issues. If you lived close enough, I'd tell you to bring it over to the polebarn where there is both heat and a torch kit. You did a good job describing the "bowl" effect. I think you need some heat. When you do decide to try it again, have a torch, Oxy-Acetylene or Propane/MAPP gas handy, and life will improve.

Good Luck, and let us know!

And if you wanna drive to Mid-Michigan...
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Unread 02-06-2010, 08:44 PM   #38
stansama
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Haha thanks for the offer! I'll make sure to try the heat approach when I can get around to it next. Thanks all!
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Unread 06-11-2010, 05:23 PM   #39
walkerhoundvm
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Just reading through this while I'm tackling my brakes. You don't have the e-brake on, do you? Be sure to let us know when and how you fixed it.
-N
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Unread 06-11-2010, 06:28 PM   #40
Dborns
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I had the same issues when I was replacing my rear drums. In both cases, it was the star adjusters not being backed off enough. Also on the pass. side, the drum was rusted to the axle.
Starting on the drivers side, look at the back of the wheel, (and when I say back of the wheel, I don't mean the backing plate, I mean the back of the wheel if you were looking down the side of the Jeep). You will want to turn the star in a clockwise motion, so angle your tool up and push down on the star to turn it. You also need to make sure you are getting the tool in far enough to move the metal tab out of the way so the star can move. If you don't push the tab off the star, it won't spin. On the pass. side, you also want to go clockwise, but this time when you are looking at the back of the wheel, you will want to angle the tool down and push up on the star to turn it.
I know I thought I had turned them as far as they could go, and I still couldn't get the drum off, but I didn't have them all the way backed off. I noticed that it felt like I was turning the star, but it wasn't either due to the metal tab not getting moved, or I was slipping off the star all together. Just keep turning the drum and if its getting harder, you are going the wrong way.
Now, on my pass. side, I had backed all the way off, and the drum still wouldn't budge. I sprayed PB Blaster all around where the lug bolt studs come through and also where the drum sits on the axle and nothing. I ended up using a propane torch and heated the drum up and when I left it on where the drum and axle touch, it popped off after a few minutes.
Good luck!
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Unread 11-14-2012, 09:17 PM   #41
Nickodemo
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am I doing this wrong then?

1978 CJ7 and cant get them to budge. Friend says to use this puller but I do not know if that is correct. Do I need the puller to do a brake job or should the drum come off and the hub and studs remain on the axle? Thanks for any insight.
dscf6702.jpg  
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Unread 11-14-2012, 11:49 PM   #42
walkerhoundvm
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Yeah, you're doing it wrong. The drum should come off separate. Make sure the pads aren't locking the drum, you should be able to wriggle it off of the rest of the axle, leaving the studs etc. behind. You might have to rap it with a rubber mallet around the outside to loosen it up a bit.
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Unread 11-15-2012, 07:06 AM   #43
garbageman
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Agree, from the backside make sure the pads are not seized to the drum. Then take a mallet or carefully with a hammer, tap around the drum edge from the back side. It should wiggle off with some work. I have had them stuck on and though someone welded them there.
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Unread 11-15-2012, 08:27 AM   #44
Nickodemo
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Thanks for the quick reply. I beat the s out of this drum adjuster is backed off all the way and PB blaster. I guess I will try some heat.
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