Rear Drive Shaft-New vs. Rebuilt - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 07-13-2011, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
ElDiesel
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Rear Drive Shaft-New vs. Rebuilt

It's very clear to me that I need a new drive shaft. While shopping a little online, someone recommended getting my current shaft rebuilt.

Also, where is a good place to get one. I've looked around, just wondering if there is a highly recommended place out there.


1985 CJ7, 4.2l 258, T176, DANA 300

2003 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 5.9l HO, Quad Cab, Edge Juice w/Attitude, 2.5" Lift, 35's, MBRP exhaust.
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post #2 of 23 Old 07-13-2011, 06:24 PM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElDiesel
It's very clear to me that I need a new drive shaft. While shopping a little online, someone recommended getting my current shaft rebuilt.

Also, where is a good place to get one. I've looked around, just wondering if there is a highly recommended place out there.
Can't speak for your local area but everyone around my area was very expensive to build new. Usually a shop charges $50-75 per cut and weld to rebuild your existing shaft. I ordered brand new ones from Curtis tattoon and am very pleased with quality, quickness and price was $100 less than anyone else. Also his spline shafts are always 6" compared to everyone else who's standard spline shaft is 3". This matters when your suspension travel can pull out a standard shaft.

CJ7/SOA /5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt detroit/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #3 of 23 Old 07-13-2011, 06:50 PM
twinstickd20
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Tom woods driveshafts are great quality and good price and ships quick and cheap.

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post #4 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 03:33 AM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinstickd20
Tom woods driveshafts are great quality and good price and ships quick and cheap.
It's amazing what some people consider cheap. They were way over priced for my shafts.

CJ7/SOA /5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt detroit/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #5 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 03:47 AM
BagusJeep
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What is wrong with your current shaft?
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post #6 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 07:38 AM
twinstickd20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nshefbuch

It's amazing what some people consider cheap. They were way over priced for my shafts.
I thought a little over 200 was very reasonable since you get a beefed up shaft and a warranty, better to me than the local guys price of 175 and no warranty.

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post #7 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 10:12 AM
CSP
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x2 on what's wrong with the one you have.

If it just needs repairs and is the correct length don't even consider new unless the slip joint is completely worn out.
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post #8 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 10:17 AM
LT1CJ7
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$150 bucks for a brand new Tatton's shaft.
Woods blowsssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-1...Q5fAccessories
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post #9 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 04:40 PM
nshefbuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LT1CJ7
$150 bucks for a brand new Tatton's shaft.
Woods blowsssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-1...Q5fAccessories
Agree. Curtis has same quality using all American made parts and offers the longer spline on all shafts. Most shops can't get the spline shaft longer than 4". This forum supports woods shafts cause they have to and that's why you see there name all the time on here.

CJ7/SOA /5.3LS/t18a/d300 clock/37"Pitbull Rockers/H1's/14 bolt detroit/d44 ARB 4.10 High Steer
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post #10 of 23 Old 07-14-2011, 10:12 PM
madjeepist
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have purchased "lots" of shafts from Tattons for an offroad shop, ALL his shafts were perfect and you cant beat the price. your payin for the name on a woods shaft.
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post #11 of 23 Old 07-15-2011, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
ElDiesel
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Joint is completely worn out. Very loose and makes a horrid noise around 25 mph.

1985 CJ7, 4.2l 258, T176, DANA 300

2003 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 5.9l HO, Quad Cab, Edge Juice w/Attitude, 2.5" Lift, 35's, MBRP exhaust.
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post #12 of 23 Old 07-15-2011, 07:30 AM
bkeese
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Aren't u-joint like $10 a piece, time 2 = $20 and a half hour to replace. Unless you have some sick travel, or lift with a V8, or differnt trans/rear combo, you don't need a longer with more travel drive shaft, rebuild the original. Besides, if you do need a longer shaft, then you need two, for the front also.

1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
1985,93 CJ7,YJ - L98 TPI Vette motor, Atlas twin stick, Dana 60s front and rear, Arbs, 39.5 Swampers
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post #13 of 23 Old 07-15-2011, 07:45 AM
Alby63
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Believe he's referring to the slipjoint.

'82 CJ5, glass body, 327, Holley Stealthram Pro 950 EFI, B&M Turbo350, Dana 44/30, Lockers, 3.73's, 6-1/2" lift, 35's, stainless mustang SLP exhaust
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post #14 of 23 Old 07-15-2011, 07:53 AM
twmattox
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Not sure if you would be interested...but I have the rear drive shaft out of my old CJ-7. I had replaced the u-joints about a year before I totaled the Jeep (that was about 6-years ago). It is just sitting in my garage...

It was out of an '84 Jeep CJ-7 with AMC 150 engine, T-4 transmission, Dana 300. Email me if you are interested (I am thinking $20+shipping???):
twmattox at frontier dot com
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post #15 of 23 Old 07-17-2011, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
ElDiesel
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yup, slip joint....I will just buy new. There is so much play in that slip joint, can't believe its still together.

1985 CJ7, 4.2l 258, T176, DANA 300

2003 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 5.9l HO, Quad Cab, Edge Juice w/Attitude, 2.5" Lift, 35's, MBRP exhaust.
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