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Unread 02-03-2009, 11:30 AM   #31
danholovic
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Hi Rick:

Yes, that makes sense to me. You have to assume that the frame rails should be identical in shape, but it seems that sometimes they aren't. The way you measured it should reveal the differences, and I would ASSUME that the one that kicks up is the one that needs fixed.

On the other hand, maybe it was supposed to bend up there and the OTHER side isn't right. You just never know...

I used the pee-waddle out of that frame dimension thing you can find on the internet everywhere, but I learned that some of the measurements listed weren't right. Some folks here listed the right numbers for some of the dimensions (can't say which thread - it was maybe a month ago). I went with my best guesses and made the thing equal left and right, and now every part along each rail is the same distance from the floor (and therefore parallel to each other) for the whole length.

There was a time when I ALMOST removed the front crossmember and put both rails right up against each other. At the time (after much frustration), I was thinking that was going to be the only way to measure whether the shapes where equal left and right. I'm glad I didn't make that mistake. Now that I'm done, it all works out and I didn't have to figure out how to make a new front crossmember - it looks very complicated.

One thing I had to do was make a new next-to-rear crossmember - the one that the front of the gas tank bolts to. I cut it out to start with, and instead of repairing it, I made a whole new one from 1/8" plate. It looks much more substantial than the original one.

Something that occurred to me while I was doing this (because I also cut off all the body mounts) was that if I put the body back on and some of the mounts don't line up, I can either weld new mounts where I want them, or in the worst case put shims under the rubber mounts to make the body level. This could possibly be the case if the "new" rear arch radius is off a pinch here or there. However, I have heard that factory frame alignment tolerance was up to 1/4" off specification. (Apparently our CJ's were held to even looser standards.) After all this work I have done, everything I measure is no more than 1/16" off, except one place in the back - 1/8" was as close as I could get it. Good enough for me.

It sounds like you are headed the right way, but just like in the house remodeling business, every job is different and has its own unique and nearly-insurmountable problems. When I got frustrated (and started throwing things - lost a nice pair of Vise Grips in the weeds across the driveway) my girlfriend would suggest I call somebody or take it to the shop. It just doesn't work that way - nobody else has seen my particular Jeep in its current state of disrepair either - you just gotta figure it out, or else yell at it until something comes to you. It is a vocabulary-expanding experience. Good luck!

Dan.

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Unread 12-10-2013, 12:53 PM   #32
hasselback
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Bringing back an old thread here. Been reading till I'm cross eyed, and still see no one resolving the lean! I know it's possible, and has been done, so lets
GIT 'ER DONE!
I know it's been done, so lets see it! It's obvious that a shim under the high side will fix it, but so far all I've seen is people just talking about it, and haven't seen anyone actually DO IT!

I have an '84 CJ7. had it for a little over a month before I started installing 2.5 inch Pro Comp lift springs. Didn't really notice the lean before, but it definitely has it now! one inch down on the drivers side. So new springs are not the fix. I'd like to do the shim on the right rear, which already has a degree shim in that came with the lift kit. I guess it would be ideal if someone made, or could make a one inch thicker degree shim for this. other than that, are there any kits available out there for purchase to fix the lean this way, or does it have to always be fixed with redneck engineering?
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Unread 12-10-2013, 01:40 PM   #33
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Do you have the factory steering stabilizer mount still there? I can't imagine that little sliver would have that much effect, a 1/4" yes but an inch or more doesn't jive. But asking just for the record.
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Unread 12-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #34
hasselback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Do you have the factory steering stabilizer mount still there? I can't imagine that little sliver would have that much effect, a 1/4" yes but an inch or more doesn't jive. But asking just for the record.
Yes, it's there. If I eliminate it, that will make my lean only 3/4 inch. Closer, but still not better......
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Unread 12-11-2013, 08:28 AM   #35
Renegade82
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Someone posted a while back with what sounded to be a legitimate reason for the lean, but I can't recall who it was or what thread.
Hey, just adjust your tire pressure on one side.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 08:39 AM   #36
1978CJ7Beast
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Hey Everyone - good news here. I just spoke with Eric over at JerseyJeeps. He actually manufactures these shims and sells them, with instructions, as a kit. The kit is modeled after what the factory offered as a fix in the early 80's. He has some really nice CJs for sale on his website...and he told me all the CJs he sells have this kit installed on them...so it sounds like this shim kit has been "tested" and works as a fix. Anyway, I just bought one from him. Hit him up if you want one. I'm pumped to get my CJ leveled out!
http://www.jerseyjeeps.net/
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Unread 12-23-2013, 08:47 AM   #37
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Someone posted a while back with what sounded to be a legitimate reason for the lean, but I can't recall who it was or what thread.
Hey, just adjust your tire pressure on one side.
Legend has it that AMC shipped a number of frames that were improperly strapped down, causing the frames to bend. It sounded plausible to me.

It baffles me that they actually sold these in this condition. If you have one, or you've seen one with the "Lean", it's incredibly noticeable. Were the buyers of these rigs blind, or what?

I hope the shim kit solves the problem for you guys.

Matt
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Unread 12-23-2013, 09:14 AM   #38
hasselback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Legend has it that AMC shipped a number of frames that were improperly strapped down, causing the frames to bend. It sounded plausible to me.

It baffles me that they actually sold these in this condition. If you have one, or you've seen one with the "Lean", it's incredibly noticeable. Were the buyers of these rigs blind, or what?

I hope the shim kit solves the problem for you guys.

Matt
It definitely bugs the crap out of me! Looks like I'm running on a flat tire or something. Also very noticeable in the back end the way the right rear is lifted up in the air. On the right, I have 11 3/4 between the tire and top of wheel well arch, and on the left I have 10 3/4. When I get a shim kit, I'll post my results.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 10:24 AM   #39
Matt1981CJ7
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I recall a thread on another forum, in which the owner of a Leaner cut the rear frame, then re-welded it straight with reinforcements. He did a nice job, and it worked beautifully, but it was a fairly complex fab job.

I'm sure a little searching would find it, if you're interested.

Matt
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Unread 12-23-2013, 10:44 AM   #40
Renegade82
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Yes please do. I'd like to see what the kit looks like. Theres nothing on his website about it, that I seen.
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Unread 12-23-2013, 10:46 AM   #41
hasselback
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I recall a thread on another forum, in which the owner of a Leaner cut the rear frame, then re-welded it straight with reinforcements. He did a nice job, and it worked beautifully, but it was a fairly complex fab job.

I'm sure a little searching would find it, if you're interested.

Matt
Thanks, I've seen it. I believe it was by Rixie?? I know I didn't spell that one right!

My last one had a lean, and I took the bare frame to a collision shop an had them put it on the frame table and straighten it to within 3/16 of an inch. It was twisted, and out of square (what they called diamond). Only cost $100, and that jeep sat level when it was done. That would be the best route IMO, as long as you have a bare frame!
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Unread 12-23-2013, 10:50 AM   #42
1978CJ7Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasselback
It definitely bugs the crap out of me! Looks like I'm running on a flat tire or something. Also very noticeable in the back end the way the right rear is lifted up in the air. On the right, I have 11 3/4 between the tire and top of wheel well arch, and on the left I have 10 3/4. When I get a shim kit, I'll post my results.
Bugs the crap out of me too. My girlfriend is scared to get in it now...she thinks its gonna roll . Are you contacting Eric for a kit?
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Unread 12-23-2013, 11:21 AM   #43
hasselback
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Originally Posted by 1978CJ7Beast View Post
Are you contacting Eric for a kit?
I checked out his site, but didn't see any for sale, or a link to them. What did you pay for your kit? Do you have any pics of it? And just within the last couple posts, I came up with a plan on making my own shim block that I might try first using some 3/16 plate that I have, and a little
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Unread 12-25-2013, 11:50 PM   #44
1978CJ7Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasselback
I checked out his site, but didn't see any for sale, or a link to them. What did you pay for your kit? Do you have any pics of it? And just within the last couple posts, I came up with a plan on making my own shim block that I might try first using some 3/16 plate that I have, and a little
Hey. I haven't officially ordered the kit...i just talked to Eric on the phone. I don't think the kit is listed on the website either. I believe he said $40. That includes the shim and instructions . I know its a little high , but it should be a direct fit, instructions are there, and when its done , the change should be significant. So $40 is fine with me. Not many other options ( if any ) on the market either. : )
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Unread 12-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #45
Bubba Ray
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I checked his site and did not see it. Does anyone have a drawing or pics to go by? Would you need new u bolts?
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