Ready for new steering gear install - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-06-2013, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
twoleos617
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So I've got everything disassembled and ready for the new gear to go in. I've got new hoses, installed an in-line filter, and cleaned and repainted my HD bracket and brace.
I've ordered a reman OE box since the '02 H1 gears are near non existent. But are there any years for the H1 that will fit our CJ's?


Torque is the measure of force that gets the cap off your beer.


Mike D.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-07-2013, 01:21 PM
jeep_boy02
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/th...1-box-1478332/

a whole thread on it... seems as though O'Reillys is the best place to find them.
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-10-2013, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
twoleos617
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So i got the gear in. Lines plumbed for flushing. Wheels off the ground. Ive turned the steering wheel slowly in both directions a couple of dozen times. Turned over the motor a few times to turn the pump.
The fluid level just won't drop.
I've even done a write up on this process but have stumped myself! Lol.

Help me through my brain fart while I go research!

The only other info I have is that I have no pitman arm hooked up so the wheels aren't moving but the output shaft on the gear is.

Torque is the measure of force that gets the cap off your beer.


Mike D.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-10-2013, 09:07 PM
jeep_boy02
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Well only thing I can think off is since its not hooked up to turn anything its not getting an adequate workout... kinda like if you did push ups standing verticle, could go all day long. Maybe it needs an actual load to move to get things flowing true

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-10-2013, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
twoleos617
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Kind of what I'm thinking too. I've retraced everything and it all looks ready to bleed, yet nothing.
Funny, every other fluid bleeds when I dont want it too but this one wont.
Ill grab a stock pitman tomorrow while I wait on the drop pitman to show up.

Torque is the measure of force that gets the cap off your beer.


Mike D.
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-10-2013, 09:38 PM
lucdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep_boy02
Well only thing I can think off is since its not hooked up to turn anything its not getting an adequate workout... kinda like if you did push ups standing verticle, could go all day long. Maybe it needs an actual load to move to get things flowing true
I would agree with this.

B

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post #7 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 06:32 AM
Redmanchew
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when i bleed my power steering i take off the return hose from pump and put it in a suitable container (it will make a mess and it is powersteering fluid, be carefull with paint). the fitting at the bottom of the pump has a chack valve in it to keep the fluid from flowing out the bottom. cycle it a few times like that and i bet you get your air out.....

1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
twoleos617
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thanks everyone. getting the pitman arm on added the resistance i needed to properly bleed.
although i replaced the gear b/c it had to be done, the steering remains just as sucky as before. im so upset. the only things that havent been changed in the entire steering system are the pump, which i believe to be fine, and the steering staft.
im still all over the road and the steering wheel wont remain centered.

soooo upset. i had such high hopes.

Torque is the measure of force that gets the cap off your beer.


Mike D.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 03:25 PM
jeep_boy02
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Has to be in the geometry then. Or worn out joints in shaft, or the axle isnt secured and is floating around... wouldnt think that would be the case tho. You do have a stabilizer on right?

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
twoleos617
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angles on the shaft are preaty darn good. it is the OE shaft tho.
been through the axle nut and bolts twice after doing a degree shim install. sloppy steering is equal before and after shims. the shims did eliminate death wobble.
alignment has been done twice and specs out ok.
no stabilizer installed. think it would help for 'swaying' slop in the steering? i thought those were more for quick/jerky movements. dont get me wrong, im not argueing and appreciate the input. at this point im willing to try anything!!

Torque is the measure of force that gets the cap off your beer.


Mike D.
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 03:59 PM
Redmanchew
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one word....borgeson...http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Brakes-and-S...EEP&Model=CJ7#

I had them on my powerwagon then on my CJ.... expensive but a great upgrade.... do your lower steering colum bearing while you have it apart....

1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

Support your local MS foundation. You don't know how much this disease sucks until it affects someone you love.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-11-2013, 04:00 PM
jeep_boy02
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Had no stabilizer for a while then ball joints and tre's started getting worn and it was a bit hairy to drive over 35mph... put a quality (inexpensive rancho kit not parts whore) stabilizer on and it felt a lot better...

80 CJ7-304/T176/D300 HEI hdrs-WT D30/D44 4.56s, lockright/spool-SOA YJs W/RE AAL-35 MTRs beadlocks
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