5:39 this morning got a text from Erick and his buddies, they're in my driveway. I'd posted on Craigslist that I wanted to trade my stock 4.10 axles for something with a little taller gearing. I'd bought 2.73 gears and carriers but after opening the rear axle housing I decided that wasn't for me to do. And the expense of paying somebody to hopefully get it right was too big of a risk. So I advertised that I wanted to trade my axles for anothers. I had two calls that didn't pan out simply because they had drum front brakes, then two days ago Erick texted me with 3.07's and one piece axles on the rear. This morning he showed up with a compressor and tools and a jeep which he drove down form Prescott. In under 5 hours he'd swapped 2 sets of axles and I was pressure washing the driveway, how awesome! Then on top of that I sold my patio furniture an extra 100 bucks! So not a bad day, will post more pics tomorrow.
Finally the day has come to start the project. God forbid it didn't start.
Here are a couple of pics of the engine as it sits in the frame, I can add more detailed pictures in a day.
I hooked up my battery and nothing sparked and no fuses blew. The first thing I hooked up was a ground wire from my fuse block to a bolt on the transmission bell housing. The next thing I hooked up was this little toggle switch, one terminal is mated to the 12v switched from the PCM and the other to the battery lug next to the power steering pump. I flipped the switch and nothing sparked so go. The next thing I hooked up was the fuel pump to the fuel pump 12v supply coming from my homemade fuse box. Once again hit the toggle and the fuel pump primed for about 3 seconds. Pefect. I then hook up a push button ignition switch I found at autozone. I hooked one terminal to the PCM ignition and the other to the same battery lug that I hooked the 12v constant and 12v switched wires to. I flipped the toggle the fuel pump primed, I push the start button and the engine started first time, without a glitch.
yesterday I swapped my perfectly good 4.10's for a 3.08 axles. As I looked at the differentlial covers admiring their wear marks, I decided to turn the front yoke and felt some play. I remembered that the guys who did the swap did not have the driveshaft hooked up to the front axle, (should've been my first warning), so I took the heavily RTV'd cover off and a mix of water and oil came dribbling out, not alot mind you but enough. Whoever installed the carrier and pinion did a pretty shoddy job as there is a good deal of side to side play in the carrier. The teeth look ok and nothing looks busted but it definitely needs some shims on the passenger side. So that will cost a couple hundred bucks. I hesitantly removed the cover off the rear differential and thank God it's ok on the inside, no pieces of metal, or broken teeth and a carrier that is solidly in place. Since it does have the Alloy one piece axle set already installed I'll call it even. Ok enough of *****ing about the one draw back so far.
Today I put on the new brake booster and master cylinder. When I took the old one off I laid them together to see what difference there was going to be in pedal travel. They are the exact same length. The booster I got came off a 1995 Wrangler 4 cylinder.
The rods are the same length.
I removed the four bolts that hold a steel plate in place behind the firewall, the four bolts on the booster bracket fit perfectly. The only problem I had was the slight tendency of the plate to slide down and block the holes. I ended up removing one bolt from the booster and pushing it through the hole on the firewall and then mounting the booster and then switching the bolt back to it's original place and tightening.
Once that was done I slid the booster rod over the brake pedal rod and put the cotter pin in place. This picture shows the clutch rod but it's the same for the brake pedal.
When I mounted the brake booster I realized that the four inches between the back of the booster and firewall was not enough room to clear the stock clutch master cylinder. I frantically searched the internet for a solution and found it in a Tilton "shorty" MC.
The kit comes with two reservoirs, a large one and smaller one. It also has the ability to have the reservoir mounted remotely which is what I opted for since the firewall to grill rod would have prevented me from opening the MC lid.
This is the final installation of the brake booster, the clutch master cylinder and remote reservoir.
I am also in the process of installing some heat reflective padding that I bought form LMC trucks for 24 bucks. I probably used just over half of what I bought. yesterday I painted the underside of the tub with undercoating.
Last night when I got home my shift fork pads were waiting on me and were installed I then finally mounted the transfer case. The rear driveshaft fit perfectly. The front though is scary, I think it's stretched as far as it will stretch. After bolting on the rear driveshaft I lifted the rear of the jeep off the ground to see if there was any binding, it's fine. The front one has me worried now. I may slide the motor forward a half inch tomorrow to give a little more room with the firewall and decrease the length of my front drive shaft.
It was a one man crane show putting the body on. really wasn't all that hard actually I used cinder blocks in the bed of the tub to help balance it. Actually rolled the chasis back under the tub.
This is what it all looks like. The breather is wayyyy too long and will have to be trimmed but waiting to put fenders on before I do that. Tomorrow I hope to have the brakes bled and the electronics just about complete.
Today I tightened the body to the frame with a 1" body lift. Also installed a Ls1 throttle cable, it looks really good. Started sorting out my wires and placing the pcm on the drivers side fenderwell. Also started tidying my wires up, will finish that tomorrow.
I tried hooking up my steering shaft but it was about a half inch too short. Tomorrow I'll unbolt the body and slide it forward to make up for that inch.
Ran new battery cables, and installed brake lines onto my 1995 brake master cylinder. I've read the 95 MC is a headache, but it proved to be easiest thing accomplished today. Simply go to Napa and buy two weatherheads, 7912 and 7917 installation is breezy. took quite a few pics today but i"m exhausted will post them tomorrow.
After reading posts of what a nightmare a 95 MC would be to install I found it to be eeezzy peezy. I went to Napa and bought two Weatherheads part number 7912 and 7917. That's all you need. No line cutting or flairing.
You can see inside the weatherhead they are made for brake line flairs.
I installed the fittings onto the master cylinder bolted the master cylinder in place, then snugged up the lines. No fuss no muss.
Finally finished tidying up my wiring. zipped tied battery cable neatly clamped fuel lines down, shielded all wiring in engine bay. Thinking of putting heat insulation over fuel lines as they transition from frame to tub. Exhaust will be closest to fuel lines at tub and header exit. Made new transmission tunnel cover holes, I order the cover from Novak, next will be looking for new shift boots. Radio works. Also cut down the length of my intake filter tube, knocked about a foot off that. Had to greatly modify my transmission skid plate.
After doing some research I realized it might not be a good idea to have the transmission bolted solid to the skid plate and then have the engine mounts be rubber. From what I found a twist of engine will possibly break the non-twisting transmission. So I cut a huge portion of the skid plate away to make room for the transmission, i may have cut a little too much but too late now unless I learn to weld. I would have attached the radiator today but I need a fitting to go into the bung on my radiator for the steam tube. i did run the the heater hoses and I have radiator hose so hopefully the radiator comes together tomorrow. I will try to have a "first test drive" video tomorrow if the radiator works out.
Next on the list is refabbing my dash to look "cool", that'll be in a week or two after exhaust is bought.
After tackling the engine wiring I realized that really no wires had to be removed from the engine harness, they just "should" be removed to tidy things up a bit. The engine wiring harness was a unfounded worry. I also realized that the engine is completely independent of the jeep itself. I think some wrangler owners will try to integrate the engine pcm with their jeep stuff and that would be a headache. My biggest questions I had concerning jeep wiring was where do I get a 12v switched, a 12v constant, and which wire was the ignition. Here is what I found doing a good bit of research online, and with the jeep cj5 repair manual and a volt meter.
The first thing I did was buy a better looking engine side wiring harness. The Firewall side of the jeep has two harnesses, one that goes to the lights, and the other to the engine itself. The one I had was pretty mutilated. In hindsight though the mutilated one was just as good as my better looking one I bought off ebay. You really don't need that many wires coming from the firewall.
There are two wires you can use for the ignition switch, both are in the same plug, the wire is labeled starter. I tested this wire by putting a volt meter to it and turning the key to start, I got 12.34 volts. The thick red wire at the top of the picture is your 12v supply from the battery to the jeep. This wire supplies voltage TO the jeeps fuseblock. I ran that wire along the firewall and tapped it into my new battery cable.
The two red wires, one thick and one thin can be used as 12v switched supplies to your 12v switched feed going to your fuseblock. either will work. I chose the smaller red wire, it looks kinda orange here, but I chose the smaller one and saved the bigger one to run my 2 electric flex lite fans. It is the same gauge as my flex lite fan wires. either will work.
Because the battery sits on the opposite side from where the battery terminal is on the engine I bought a 78 inch battery cable.
I unbolted the lug holding the battery cable to alternator so I can mount the new battery cable.
I used a cutoff wheel to cut the cable that went to the battery post. DO NOT CUT THE CABLE TO THE ALTERNATOR OR STARTER. I then put a cap over the remaining stub of a cable to prevent electrecution and mounted my new battery cable. I'll add pics of the cable runs later today.
After hooking up the battery, and only the battery to the positive and negative battery cables. I tested for 12v continuity. First from battery positive to negative. Then battery positive to block, then to fame and finally body. I had 12v everywhere.
I then unplugged the positive battery cable and made my ground wire from my fuse block to the body. and ran my 12v constant wire to the fuse block, reconnected my battery cable and tested for voltage. I let the setup set for a few minutes and felt the relays and nothing was getting hot or warm.
I then unplugged the positive battery cable and repeated the wiring and testing for the 12v switched and turned the key to run. This was a hit or miss or I disconnected the battery cable rewired my ground wires at the fuse relay block with matching ga wire, positive and ground were now both 10 ga wires. I replaced my 12v switched wire due to a questionable assembly and retested. Two days later and no hickups. A good thing about building your own fuse block you'll know where the problems are if you run into anything down the road, or trail.
Finally I hooked up my ignition switch wire and ran the fuel pump supply wire. The 5.3 started no problem.
I finally took it down the dirt road, 1/2 mile each way, loud but fun. I spent a majority of the day installing the radiator which required I put some assss into bending a instrusive power steering line. I'm having second thoughts about this power steering thing. I'm thinking I should have bought a new manual gear box. The power steering is not only really light but I worry about leaks, especially after wailing on pressure line. uggghhhh, and to get back to it to retighten is a bear, hopefully it stops weeping. After installing the radiator and filling it, I found something dripping very slowly from the driver side. I broke off an exhaust bolt months ago when I first got the engine home and drilled the crap out of it to get a new bolt in. I hope I didn't drill into a water orifice. If I did I'll JB weld it first, see how that goes, and if still a leak I'll buy a new head and gasket and bolt set. A head from car-parts can be had for as little as 65 bucks. The worst part will be taking the time to do the head swap. LS1 has a good write up on the head swap. I wired up the VSS to the transfer case also the 4x4 indicator light, which works. I also wired up the reverse light switch. I still have to bend the brake tab. I have to give a tug on the brake pedal after stopping, so one more tug on that tab should do it. I'm going to pull my dash out and make some sort of custom dash gauge pod so I haven't installed the gauges yet. I did install the speedo cable today and I had the jeep to 25 mph.
Back to the leak, I finished driving 20 minutes or so ago and no drips on driveway yet, weird.
This is how I wired up my battery, I put zip ties every four inches and ran my constant 12v wire along side the battery cable.
I also moved my negative battery cable to the passenger side. You can also see my new gates heater hoses. There are two different sizes of heater hoses for the 5.3 engine, one is a 5/8 and the other is a 3/4. I bought a reducer from autozone since the heater core tubes are the same 5/8 size.
I installed my pcm on the driverside fender using a stock pcm mount. I did make the obdII connector it's hanging from the side on a purple and orange wires. I still have a little trimming to do on these wires, not much though.
engine bay view, you can see I still have to hook my check engine light up. I made it just waiting to decide on the dash.
These are the start of my aluminum 3/8 npt fuel line at the rear of the frame. Where the fuel lines transition from the frame to the follow the contour of the tub I applied heat shielding. Not really sure how effective it'll be but it's there.
You can see how much I cut away from my skid plate. I admit I cut way too much away, but I've never even scratched my skid plate the chances are slim I'll hit my transmission on anything but to be safe I'll have this welded back to contour the transmission.
I undercoated most of the bottom of the tub. I used wiring loom and electrical tape to protect my rubber fuel lines from chaffing.
Worked on my dual Flex Lite electric fans today mounting them to the radiator. And the mounting the grill and radiator to the jeep.
Drove jeep about 8 miles tonight, no exhaust, should there be sparks coming from exhaust manifold on deceleration? eerie, nothing on fire though. Also since I switched to 3.07 axles how do I convert mileage from my old 4.10's?
After my test drive I needed to finish a few things up mostly tidying up wires under the hood. I decided to order a sunpro tach and had to rerun the white wire to the number 10 plug on the red pcm connector, took all of 15 minutes.
I first removed the negative battery cable from the battery and then unbolted the blue and red connectors from the pcm. I took off the plastic wire guard to see that in fact I did not have a wire in the 10 plug.
I located a white wire in my box of removed wires.
I removed the red wire cover to reveal a few number of wires left in the pcm connector.
After locating the 10 port I simply slid the wire back into it's slot making sure it was seated correctly. I then reassembled the pcm and zipped the wire to my other wires and ran it through the firewall where it waits for the tach.
Another task on my list is wire an ignition panel from joesracing.com. I'm waiting on the panel but it should be delivered tomorrow or Friday. The main reason I'm going with the ignition panel was because of the coolness factor and secondly because after my test drive I turned off the ignition switch and the engine kept running for 15 seconds. This happened twice, once at the shell station and once when I got home. I took apart the ignition switch on the column and it was corroded so I decided to go this route instead of simply replacing the switch. I did searches and some people say to put a diode on the alternator but that's not something I want to do right now plus the switch looks to be the culprit. For the naysayers who will comment about the somebody steeling the jeep, 90% of the time you could turn the tumbler without a key anyway.
The bottom pic is of the ignition switch, some people get this mixed up with the igntion key lock. Though the key switch is suspect too, this ignition switch was a disaster on the inside.
These are the wires I will use to make my ignition and accessory switch when it gets here. The blue wire is the igntion wire to the pcm, the yellow wire is the accessory wire and the red trace wires are 12v switched. The red solid wire is 12v supply. I will finish up this when the switch panel comes in.
The interior with the dash panel out and starting to put carpet in and a smittybilt center console.
Today my JoesRacing.com ignition wiring panel came in the mail. Tonight I wired it in total time was about an hour and a half. The big setback came when I let the engine run to temperature and when I killed the ignition the engine ran for about 5 seconds. It seems I wired the electric fans on the same circuit and when the fans are on there must be some stored electricity in the controller box that back feeds the ignition system. How do I know this? When the fans are running the ignition delays shutdown, then the fans are off the ignition shuts off. So tomorrow I'll move the fan power directly to the battery.
These are the two wiring harnesses that connect to the ignition switch. On the white harness is the supplied 12v from the battery, the Red with White trace is a 12v to the switched 12v I use for the pcm and fans (mistake hooking up fans to this, but will rectify). The Yellow wire supplies Accessory power to the jeep. The small blue wire is the ignition wire to the starter or in our conversion the pcm. The black harness has another Red with White trace which goes the firewall and supplies voltage to accesories, not exactly sure yet but it's not a show stopper to have this not used at least at this point in time. The black wire goes to the brake failure lamp and a splice, it's a ground and I did not use it.
This is the ignition panel I bought model 46100. It is a fairly straight forward installation. All three switches are in series. The far left connector is for the 12v from the battery which for me was the solid Red wire. I spliced in a little length of 10-12 ga wire since placement of the switch panel has yet to be determined.
On this accessory switch I connected the solid Red wire to the supply side, then the Red w/trace wire to the load side. I later connected the Yellow wire to the same post will show pics later. I made sure to have the negative battery cable disconnected while doing this. As I hooked up each wire I reinstalled the negative battery cable and took a voltage reading at the ignition switch and at various random wires to see what was getting juice.
When I flipped the accessory toggle the fuel pump did not come on so I knew that the other Red with Trace was the 12v switched I used for the fuel pump, that wire also drives the pcm. So I connected that wire to the Igntion toggle and when flipped the fuel pump cycled on and off. Lastly I connected the small blue wire to the push button start switch. I turned on the ignition toggle (fuel pump). Then hit the push button and the vehicle started. I was able to test headlights, brake lights and turn signals when the yellow wire was also connected to the accessory switch.
Lastly I connected my gauges. The engine puts out 40psi of oil at idle. The water temp got to 195 degrees, and voltage was at 14 volts.
Spliced fan controller power wire directly to battery, that took care of the backfeeding into the ignition circuit. I think it's simpler to just have the ignition on the ignition circuit. Also had a slight weep on my low pressure side of fuel line. I think wiggling the body around an inch or two and then moving the engine forward a half inch must have caused the flair nut to back off slightly. I tightened them back and gave it pressure and no leak. I need to work on finishing up my gauges wiring and labeling some extra wires to be 12v supplies and grounds but I keep getting phone calls to do other things. Gotta run,,,,,,,,,,again.
I know it seems redundant to some to add a fuse box but since I ordered two of everything I decided to add a 4 fuse box to the interior to power accessories like my 3 plug 12v outlet with usb ports to charge my cell phone etc. I also wanto plug in my cb and hopefully other radios maybe HAM later in the future. I took pics but photobucket seems to down right now. So later I guess.
Yesterday I finally finished my conversion, the only thing left is to have exhaust put on and that will happen later this week. I have to take it to the muffler shop for that. Saturday my neighbor who builds and races offroad race cars, offered to fab up my dash and make a transmission cross brace. He does fantastic work and it was a godsend for him to step up and make the offer.
Here is my stock dash and though there was nothing wrong with it I wanted to make it my own style. Had I known what Justin could do I would have bought a blank early on and let him have it.
I made a dustpan in shop back in 1982 and that was a wrap for my metal working days. Justin started with a piece of paper a sharpie and then went through scrap aluminum to make the gauge pod I wanted.
In my opinion he above and beyond with putting this "cap" on the top of the gauge panel, its rounded, smooth, and makes for a good look.
So what started out as a few peices of scrap aluminum turned into a pretty functional gauge cluster. I wish all three gauges could have been in a straight line and had I had the room to make the cluster longer I would have but I had to consider the grab handle, and knees of passengers. My hopes were to also install my radio below the gauges but because of the angle the radio would run into interference of the side wall of the gauge pod, so radio now has to go into center console.
The transmission skid plate was a disaster. I read the posts of dropping the plate 1.5 inches, of not being able to use the plate of having to cut the plate. I did all those things! LOL, well I ended up with a steel swiss cheese. I couldn't make the plate work and it was killing me to not be able to drive the jeep safely. So I pointed this out to Justin and asked me what I wanted. Well what I want and what I can afford are sometimes two different things. So I told him I wanted a transmission brace. Maybe Later we can turn it into a skid plate so in about an hour I was happy to have a transmission brace.
The transmission brace is made of Chromoly Steel.
I drove my jeep about 20 miles last night, the ride was phenominal. Road noise was low, the jeep felt solid as a rock. Once I get the exhaust done it'll be perfect. Today I will take pics of the finished jeep and post. I hope this buildout helps somebody I know I appreciate this website for all it's help and I know I say I'm finished with my Jeep, but in reality I don't think Jeep owners are ever finished with there Jeeps. You're not supposed to be anyway.