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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4wG2 Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Jeep Wrangler YJ TJ LJ Ch

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Unread 04-25-2013, 11:47 AM   #16
brownrxmd
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1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nanwalek, Alaska
Posts: 163
If anyone is doing this conversion and is confused on the fuel delivery, I was completely stumped on this one. I just found out that SummitRacing has a tech line you can call. Their number is 330-630-0240. I told them I had a 5.3 going into a cj5 and I need some help doing the fuel line. I knew I wanted to run as much hard tubing as possible, I bought 30ft of 3/8 tubing on ebay for 18 dollars a few minutes ago. What I don't understand is the fittings -6 AN to 3/8 5/16 etc. In talking with Summit I decided to run 3/8 in hard line on both the supply side and return side. The steel braided hose is -6 AN so they saved me from trying to find 5/16 hard line. Anyway the tech on the phone found all the fittings I needed and saved me alot of headache trying to look this stuff up. If fuel line fittings is your game, my hats off to you, I was dreading having to figure it out. The total cost of fittings and 6 ft of steel braided line from Summit was 89.21 which included shipping and handling. Plus a roll of aluminum tubing from Speedway on ebay for 18.00 plus 8 dollars in shipping. That's put me at about 110 bucks for fuel line delivery. I bought the in tank fuel pump from Novak which is kinda pricey and I could've went with the external pump and saved some money but ordered it months ago and so that cost is a distant memory. lol.

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Unread 04-25-2013, 11:00 PM   #17
BSetera
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Randall,
Watching closely to your thread. Lots of really great information. Especially since you and i have similar setups. Will you be running the fuel lines along the drivers side or passenger and what type of exhaust are you planning to run? If you answered it already, sorry I missed it. I think on my engine, it is only the supply line and no return, at least that's what I read on Branden's site if I remember right. Good luck to you and keep up the good work.

Brad
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1980 Jeep CJ5
Currently in frame-off restoration
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Unread 04-26-2013, 01:12 PM   #18
brownrxmd
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Hey Bsetera, I ordered the fuel line stuff just yesterday. If you look at your engine top driver side of the intake you'll see if you have two lines or one. Anyway I bought 30 feet of 3/8 aluminum tubing off ebay for 18 dollars, 6ft of stainless steel flex line, all the fittings and stuff from Summit. I plan on running the hard line along the drivers side frame. Stock my jeep fuel lines run on the passenger side of the frame. I don't think it'll be too big of a job as far as most of this stuff goes. I'm going to remove my tube and do all this work with just the frame and axles on. I'll definitely post alot of pics on that. Since the jeep is my daily driver I can't start taking it apart til after the 10th of May I'm running a TIC (thermal imaging camera) training class from the 5th til the 10th. After the 10th, though I'll be hard at this thing, nothing is on my schedule for a few weeks afterward. I've never done anything like this, I'm not sure how long it'll take but I assume it shouldn't take more than a week to take my jeep apart and reassemble. I'm not doing any restoration work or anything like that. The exhaust I'm going to have done by a local shop, They did the current exhaust that's on it and it seems to be ok. I don't think I'm going to do dual exhaust but simply have one side cross over to the other side and one pipe out the back, nothing radical or loud. I really wish I could find somebody to trade axles with. I have the dana 30 and AMC20 4.10's. There's nothing wrong with them but I want taller gearing for easier interstate travel. I bought 2.73 pinions and carriers to do an internal swap, but that'd be way above my skill level.
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Unread 04-29-2013, 09:01 AM   #19
brownrxmd
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Another good parts day.

Today is going to be another good parts day. I will be getting fuel lines, flywheel inspection cover, and something else I don't remember what. Saturday I traded my soft top for a fiberglass hardtop I found on Craigs. I'll take a pic of later and post. Now I need to find doors. Way quieter even without doors than the softtop was. Anyway here are some pics I found of when I first started working on the body of my jeep.













I'm not a body man at all, I did some electrical work on a buddys jeep and he painted my jeep in trade. One thing that has me stumped is the amount of bondo on the jeep. It seems the entire body is covered in bondo. It does not have a bit of rust as it's spent its life in Az. Does anyone know what the whole thing has a layer of bondo on it?
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Unread 05-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #20
brownrxmd
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traded vinyl top

I found an ad on Craigslist in Phoenix last week, hardtop for trade for softop. So I responded and went to look at the hardtop, as it turns out the guy with the hardtop is the same guy I bought softtop off of last year. So I went ahead and made the trade. Now I have my 4.10 axles on Craigs for trade for something taller. I think it would be easier to just unbolt the axles and swap them, rather than rebuild the insides. My axles are good, no leaks, they've never been abused. I change the oil in them every spring and the oil that comes out is as golden as when I poured it in. If anybody want to trade axles let me know, I'd come to you if you're within a couple hundred miles. Here are some pics of the hard top.



Here are two pics I just found of my old 1999 Jeep Landrunner. Yeah I was one of those who bought one. If I remember right the base tj was about 17,000 bucks then they added the kit to it and I think I shelled out about 30,000 for this. It was my first jeep and I really liked it. I once hit a pontiac in the side at about 40 mph in the rain, he ran a stopsign, I hit him so hard in the drivers side rear wheel, that his whole rear axle came off and he spun across two lanes of traffic. The Landrunner drove away with a cracked hood and windshield, my daughter was just a few months old and she didn't even wake up. Some people think they're hideous, others like em. At the time I loved it. The worst part of owning one was body parts replacement. I actually had to call the designer, Chris ???? and source parts, the hood for intance had the chrysler/jeep 7 holes in the grill, that turned out to be a jeep trademark and they don't make those any more, I think the grill now has three large holes. I insisted on the 7 holed grill and found a hood from a builder in S.C. The roof rack was another issue I had, it rattled and squeaked terribly, I could never tighten it enough. The dealership butchered it up trying to fix it.




Last edited by brownrxmd; 05-01-2013 at 09:50 AM..
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Unread 05-20-2013, 01:11 AM   #21
brownrxmd
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OBD II and Check Engine light wiring

I started working on my engine harness about two months before I actually bought the engine. About the only things electrically I need to finish are the OBD and Check engine light, so today I decided to reacquaint myself with the soldering iron and wires.

LT1Swap has a list of stuff you can buy from Mouser and All Electronics, I bought enough parts to build a dozen OBD II ports, then I actually got the OBD II port out of the donor vehicle.


This is the Green wire from Pin 50 on the Blue PCM connector.



This is the receiving end of the OBD II port, you can see there are 16 possible connectors, we'll only use 4. Starting at the top left is port 1 -unused. Port 2 has a purple wire, it connects to the green wire coming from pin 50 on the PCM. Port 4 and 5 are grounds. Port 4 is Power Ground, Port 5 is Sensor Grd. From what I can find out Port 5 can connect to ground ckt 451, you'll see a few 451 ckts on your pinout sheets. I connected port 5 of the obd ii to wire 40 on the pcm. port 4 I will simply ground to chassis. If I'm wrong I'll reverse the ports. No harm no foul. You'll notice number 14 has a wire, it had a green wire, I cut it out. Port 16 is orange and that goes to constant 12v.


I cut out the green wire it wasn't needed.


This is the ground wire at Pin 40 that I soldered Port 5 to.


Serial Port wire which is green on port 50 of the PCM solders to the purple wire coming out of port 2 of the OBD connector.


I spliced the constant 12v orange wire off the OBD II connector to my orange constant wires going to my fuse box.


I bought this little amber light for my check engine light. The check engine light needs two wires, the brown ground wire from the PCM and a 12v switched source.


Since Pink wires are switched 12v wires, I dug up a extra Pink wire and soldered it to a connector and slid it onto the terminal of the light.


You can see in the picture that lamp is labeled + and -. So I attached the pink wire to the + side and the PCM negative to the - side. I put the lamp away after connecting these two wires. I'll drill a hole in the dash later run these wires through the firewall and connect them to their appropriate wires. I'll splice the pink wire to 12v switched wire, and brn ground wire will attach to the pcm ground. All in all pretty simple. I'm putting my OBD II under the hood next to my fuse block and my check engine light will be in the cab. I hope this was helpful to somebody.
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Unread 05-21-2013, 09:31 AM   #22
brownrxmd
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Another Step Backwards

After reading and reading and reading on other websites, some chevy, some jeep websites (aye). I think I'm going to change the flywheel bolts I have. I bought the stock pressure plate to flywheel bolts from local dealer, they're not shouldered, and I'm using the original flexplate flywheel bolts to crank, those may be too short. So I found the right bolts, maybe because they're is a bit of debate on this. I ordered them from Hinson super cars.
I ordered the LS1/LS2 pressure plate bolt kit (ARP 134-2201) 16.00. and the ARP LS1/LS2 flywheel bolt kit (ARP 330-2208) 29.00. just to be on the safer side. Hopefully I'm the only one who has used questionable bolts.
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Unread 05-28-2013, 11:13 PM   #23
brownrxmd
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Today I went to Lowes and picked up a bunch of Adel Clamps for my fuel line. I guess I didn't order the right number of adapter sleeves for the my hardline so I ordered a bag of those today from Amazon. I spent an enormous amount of time at Autozone and Oreillys trying to convince them they had the sleeves, however Autozone guy wouldn't even attempt to look the part up without a vehicle to go by, apparently they do not have internet access to view their own website. Oreillys was completely stumped and got caught in a circle of wanting me to buy preassembled fuel line sticks, ugghhh, two hours down the drain. I was going over my in tank fuel pump I bought from Novak and the output hose clearly states not for fuel injection. So gotta put a call into those guys since the fuel pump was on their website for this project. The hose looks thick but it says that for a reason. I bought a dozen cinder blocks from Lowes today also and tomorrow I plan on starting to take this thing apart and going to set the tub on the blocks.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 04:37 PM   #24
brownrxmd
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Today is the day to start disassembly.

There are only so many times I can take things apart and recheck torque values, or change bolts to a better bolt. So the motor is as ready as it's ever gonna get. Today I started dissassembly of the jeep. Wouldn't you know it though as soon as I took the hood off and removed the battery, my phone rang and I had to run an emergency errand. Battery back in, but hood still in garage I took off on errand. So here are some disassembly pics.




The current engine is a from a 1979 Monte Carlo, it's a small V6 with a Rochester dualjet carburetor (which sucks offroading, because needles won't stay in there seats). It produces a whopping 84 hp. I get about 18 mpg at 55mph. This engine has all the emission stuff and passes every year with flying colors.


The fenders are held on by about 6 bolts and 2 nuts. Three bolts on the firewall two nuts. on the firewall to two braces, on the passenger I had to also remove the battery tray. There are three bolts that attach the fender to the front grill. The top bolt I had to cut off with a hack saw, it was stripped.



The front grill is held on by only one bolt on the bottom center.
After removing the body panels, I washed them, removed left over bolts and screws from days gone by, and put them up.


My radiator was held on to the grill by 4 bolts, now the radiator is sitting by the trash can the grill is with the fenders.


After getting body panels off I started taking off the steering gear box. These bolts were tighter than my ex wife! My gawd, lesson learned though I should have loosened all the bolts and then removed from fram just so something would hold the gear box steady.

I pressure washed and cleaned up the bracket pieces really good. I then primered them and getting them ready to paint black. The steering shaft got a new knuckle to mate to my new power steering gear box.

All in all this took me all morning. I should have the old motor out tomorrow.
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Unread 05-30-2013, 03:42 PM   #25
brownrxmd
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Posts: 163
This morning I removed the old v6 from the jeep. It was pretty simple and took me about an hour and a half.



I removed everything connecting the engine to the frame or body of the jeep. Wires, speedo cable, clutch line, and driveshafts and shifters. I moved the hoist
up to the engine hooked the chains added some tension, then unbolted the motor mount bolts, and she slid right out like butter.


I moved the whole assembly, engine, tranny, and transfer case to my work bench, unbolted the transfer case on my bench and then moved the engine and tranny outside.



Here's the old powertrain. Hopefully I can trade it somebody with skills to build me a roof rack, it'd be a fair trade.


The transfer case is covered in dirt and grime so off to the pressure washer.


The bottom cover was on tight! It's never been off as the original sealant is still on there, holy **** was this on tight.



Once the cover was off I was so happy to see all my gears looking as good as new! woohooo!


I bought the Advance Adapter kit to mate this to the sm465, I went this route instead of Novak because I didn't want to tear my tranny apart
to install a new main shaft, with the AA kit I only need to change out the input shaft. So remove the hex head bolts and then the bearing cover.



Removing this cover was the biggest PITA I have ever seen. It's only held on with these little bolts, and some sticky *** sealant!
I beat and pounded and used a torch on it. I even hammered a razor blade between this cover and the xfer case body. Finally after about an hour or more of
doing this it started to seperate. I used a couple of progressively larger screwdrivers and a hammer to work it loose.
There is no need to remove rear yokes, or anything else to get the input shaft off. So here it sits until I can get a pair of snap ring pliers and the use of a press to
put the new input shaft on. A few more days and that'll be done.
Now I'm off to unbolt the tub from the frame.
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Unread 05-31-2013, 04:53 PM   #26
brownrxmd
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Day three,,,ugghhh

Alcoholism may be setting in. I'd hoped to have had the tub off the frame today. It's just setting there unbolted, but alas no alcoholic friends to help me move it. Then my pressure washer wand took a dive. I took off the brake and clutch master cylinders. My new clutch MC came in today and I see the rod didn't have a loop on it to attach to the pedal. I could go buy a heim bolt and fix that but instead I took the old MC apart and simply moved that actuating rod over to the new MC. Tah Dah, 5 mins. The Brake mc is a gonner no way it'll work with the new brake booster, I did measure the actuating rods and they are exactly the same length. I cleaned up the firewall and primered and sprayed it. I have insulating material I bought from LMC truck that will go on it tomorrow. I also got some rubberized sealant to put on the bottom of the tub waiting to remove the tub for that job. I took off the engine wiring harness from the jeep firewall and might just pin that out tonight and see where I'm going to tap into it at.
I started to mount the engine mounts I bought from Novak however the kit did not come with any mounting hardware, not a bolt, washer or nut. You'd think for 200 bucks they'd throw in a couple of bolts. I ordered 12 3/8 npt adapter sleeves for my fuel lines and 4 came in. I put a call into that company neverenoughauto but was asked to call back in an hour. Well just called them their warehouse is closed, I'll get a call on Monday. So what a headache today has been and such a perfect day to waste getting not much done.
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Unread 06-03-2013, 02:05 PM   #27
brownrxmd
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Tub removal Finally

After posting on Facebook and texting buddies to come and help move my tub I got the feeling after a two day wait that nobody was coming. So I used my engine hoist and picked the tub off the frame and set it down on my cinder blocks.





It was kind of a one man juggling act but all in all it was easy, and less costly than having to share my beer with all my so called "friends". lol.





First thing I did was wash all the dirt out of the frame, incredible how much dirt rides around in the frame. Luckily for me, I live in about 6% humidity, so no rust. I pulled out my stock sending unit.




It was a tight fit installing the new in tank fuel pump but finally I got it to go in. The supply side I was able to route through the frame and around the shock mount. I am going to have to put a sleeve or grommit on the frame openings so there is minimal rubbing on the hose.



It took me about an hour and a half to make my fuel lines.




I'm not the fastest worker bee after I finished making my lines I tested the pump and ground by using my old battery to turn on the pump. Initially I used a short peice of rubber hose a couple of hose clamps and bolt to block off the supply line. After about 2 secs the bolt was blown out of the rubber hose and fuel shot about 10 feet into the garage! None of my lines leaked. Next I looped the supply and return line and ran the pump for a few seconds, all was good.



After running my fuel lines, I installed my Novak motor mounts added 1 1/2 inch spacers to my skid plate and installed and brought the engine over and set it in.

After mounting the engine I see there is a problem with the skid plate, the transmission sits a the rear of the plate. I have two options I guess, move the engine forward or move the skid plate rearward about 4 inches. I'm going with moving the skid plate. Also I see that my adapter to skid plate mount is about 4 inches too high. So I'm drilling holes through some 4 in square stock to make up the difference.

From what I can tell this is going to be a really close fit. My biggest doubt is whether or not I'm going to be able to use my stock shifter floor cover. With the transmission sitting as far back as it is on the skid plate I imagine that those 4 inches will translate to the tranny sitting too far back for the cover. I can only guestimate with the body off. However where the engine and bell housing come together it looks right as those peices come together just before the front tub mounts. So I'll update as I go along.
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Unread 06-04-2013, 12:51 PM   #28
brownrxmd
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Today started off going in reverse. Yesterday I filled the transmission up with about a gallon of oil this morning I found a small puddle of oil I thought I'd maybe cross threaded the drain plug but that wasn't it. I hesitated but then figured what the hell it'll never get easier to remove a transmission than now. So I hooked up the engine hoist and pulled the transmission off. For some odd reason I was hit with a round of severed retardation as I had a brand new pack of transmission gaskets on my work bench and oil was running out the pto covers and the little front cover. Ugggh, so now the transmission is back on the gaskets are curing and tomorrow I'll fill it back up. What an idiot. An a positive note I did get the transfer case output shaft changed from the stock one to the AA one. Looking inside although the gears are great I am missing a couple of shifter pads, so I ordered those last night and should have them by the end of the week, I'm anxious to see how it all fits, I'm praying the shafts will work. I had to order a new transmission cover as there is now way this sm465 will fit in the the same location as the sr4. Also ordered a brake master cylinder, a lokar accelerator cable new front brake lines. Two days ago my ad on craigs paid off. I sold my hardtop. I was 500 and got 400 plus a Flex-A-lite dual electric fan setup with control box. So good trade. The same guy wants the engine and transmission I pulled out, so far he has offered 200 but I'm thinking that's too low. We'll see how generous I am.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 12:03 AM   #29
brownrxmd
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Posts: 163
Fuel lines and starting

I took some pics of the fuel lines I made. Two days ago all I had to do was make two 8 inch flexible hoses to connect the fuel rail to the flaired 3/8 aluminum fuel line I made. For what ever reason the high pressure side and then the low pressure side weeped fuel. No other connection I made had a leak. At first I thought it was the flairs I was making but after the third attempt of reflairing I realized the leak was actually from the steel braided hose and 3/8 npt connector. Eventually I coated the threads with Yamabond 5 and the leak stopped. I allowed the yamabond to cure for about 3 hours before trying the fuel pump again.
Yesterday I also attempted to start the engine. That didn't go over too well at all. First of all I used an old battery and simply tried using jumper cables to no avail, the fuel pump came on and stuff on the intake clicked but the engine just slowly turned over. So today I bought a new battery and some toggle switches and a push button starter. I'll wire it all in tomorrow, put some more grounds from block to frame closer to the starter recheck my fuse block connections and give it another whirl. Today was a wasted day as I was in Tucson all day and didn't get a chance to work on the jeep. On the good news side. I was able to sell my jeep hardtop for 400 bucks and a new Flex-a-lite dual fan setup with controller box. That was definitely a good score. I am also about to unload my v6 engine to a coworker in exchange for steel cargo basket. Another score.
New brake lines showed up today, along with new brake master cylinder and rear shackles. My new transmission cover from NOVAK showed up yesterday along with sm465 boot. I also received my power steering low side o-ring fitting. i currently have a high side fitting in there and it leaks like watergate. All is well in jeepland, hopefully it starts tomorrow and it gets even better. I also got offered a trade on axles. I'm going to trade my 4.10's for 3.05's Thatll happen next weekend.
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Unread 06-09-2013, 01:00 AM   #30
brownrxmd
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Posts: 163
Engine started first try!!! Woohooo

I wired up a toggle switch for my 12v switched, bought a pushbutton start button from Oreillys and a new battery from walmart. wired it up in minutes pressed the start button and BAM!!! She started right up, shot oil about 5 feet into the air!!! I had to go back to oreillys and buy an oil gauge so I wouldn't shoot oil out the oil pressure sender hole. The only real problems I'm having right now is with the steel braided fuel line at the engine, the pressure side is weeping at the NPT connection, I've tried several times to fix to no avail. I'm going to buy just plain rubber hose, high pressure of course and try it. Also the low pressure side of the power steering pump leaks. That one has been a stumper.
Tomorrow I'll post pics and first start video.

Tomorrow hopefully will be getting 3.05 gears and axles. Hoping to do an axle swap. My shifter fork pads are still 5 days out! That sucks ***. I was hoping to have my xfer case installed. Also bought new radiator hoses today. Can hardly wait to get this back together. Last but not least will be exhaust.
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