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post #31 of 41 Old 01-06-2010, 09:01 PM
wrongway92407
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I looked at 3 different sets of screws, and found no difference. they all had numbers on then but were only able to make out the numbers on 2 sets. On the first set the numbers were 639 in the second set the numbers were 85, now this particular carb came off of a 85! but all 6 screws measured the same, they all had the same diminutions. As I thought before the screw have a recessed ares where the gas would transfer to the tubes. So it wouldn't make a bit off diff where the holes pointed, there is only one place for the gas to go. I down loaded some pic's don't know if I can get them on site.

Attached Thumbnails
bbd idle screws 3.jpg   DSC00104.JPG  

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86 CJ7 2.5 detroits, OBA 4.56, air tank bumpers, w/D rings,9500I warn 31x10.5x15, Trxus
86 CJ7 bone stock, w/factory 44 never seen the dirt soon to be for sale
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post #32 of 41 Old 01-07-2010, 07:11 AM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
In reading through 82CJ_Chemist’s post Carter BBD#2: won't idle when warmed up, I noticed several mentions of the High Idle Cam.

I never gave any consideration to this cam when doing any of the adjustments thus far, except that I didn't think it appeared to 'work' right.

I assume I should have set the high idle with the screw on the second 'step' of the cam
I am not sure that was the case (hope to look at it tonight).
What controls the position of the cam so that it is oriented with the second 'step' @ the screw?
You have to move the cam by hand so the screw is on the second from top step, then you set the rpm. On a warm engine I set them to 1700 rpm.

Then when the engine is cold and the choke closes from you giving the gas pedal the first to the floor primer shot before trying to start it, the closed choke pulls the cam up to that step.

The engine then starts around 800 rpm or so and starts to climb in rpm as it warms up. You tap the gas when half warm and the cam drops to the first step dropping the rpm which will climb again as it warms up more.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #33 of 41 Old 01-07-2010, 07:13 AM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by wrongway92407 View Post
I looked at 3 different sets of screws, and found no difference.
Thanks for taking the time to check that. It would figure there is no difference or it would be mentioned some place for sure.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #34 of 41 Old 01-07-2010, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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well, it is becoming apparent that I am not going to get to look at any of this until the weekend.

I'm not about to start fiddling with these things in the cold and dark.
With my luck I'll drop something down the carb throat....
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post #35 of 41 Old 01-07-2010, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Thanks for taking the time to check that. It would figure there is no difference or it would be mentioned some place for sure.
Thanks from me too.

83 CJ7, Nuttered, 2" lift.
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post #36 of 41 Old 01-09-2010, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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OK, this is interesting...

Started getting back into this mess this morning and noticed that the sides of the screw heads are indeed marked differently - one w a line, one without (of course, me being the genious that I am has already gotten them mixed up, so I dont remember which started where- shouldn't matter, really).

I also noticed that the holes in the sides are not exactly different, but have different 'end conditions'. On one side of the screw the hole is just a regular thru hole. The other side has an oblong 'countersink' or chamfer around the hole.

See pics (I have marked the screws indicating the 'countersunk' end of the hole, in case it turns out it makes a difference.




Now the question is, is that chamfer there to let fuel in easier, or out more dispersed?

And again, I have found no documentation regarding this either.

Thoughts???
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post #37 of 41 Old 01-09-2010, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it seems I figured out why the idle cam didn't seem to 'work' correctly....

The idle speed screw was in the wrong hole and not even close to aligned with the cam.

I put everything back together after taking the above photos and she started right up on the first turn of the key.

And without all the bucking. It actually sounds like it is running on six cylinders.
Although still not a smooth idle- it kind of 'chugs'

It is warming up now, then I will set the ide speed to the second step of the cam.

Incidentally, the second step is barely visible. Is it supposed to be that small of a step?
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post #38 of 41 Old 01-09-2010, 03:46 PM
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Ok, now that it looks like 2Xtreme has his problem figured out, I'll throw mine out to you. Here's some background info first: I have an '84 Cali model CJ7 with 258 and BBD. It had all emissions equipment functioning for the most part. This past summer, it was running pretty good, was getting 20 mpg on the highway. Then, about the end of July, it started pinging really bad in 5th gear and then it started pinging in 4th gear under load. I figured it was my computer messing up the timing so I disconnected the electrical connection at the Vacuum switches the computer uses to determine throttle position. This should have put the computer into it's open-loop start up mode where it keeps the timing fixed. Anyway, that worked well for a while and then I started having drivability issues with it bucking and dieing and such. It was time to rebuild the carb and I also thought my ignition module was going bad.

After troubleshooting the module and tracing the ignition circuit voltage, I checked the dizzy cap & rotor and found a lot of carbon build up in the dizzy cap (I did the Team Rush upgrade to the Ford dizzy cap, adapter and rotor button last summer. Cap has brass contacts as does the rotor button. Didn't think they would carbon over that bad in less than 6 months of use) which I partially scraped off with sand paper. Will do a better job with a needle file later today or tomorrow but what I did allowed me to start the Jeep fairly easily compared to prior to the scraping.

So, I rebuilt the carb from another 84 CJ and installed it on my 84 CJ. The carb came from a guy I used to wheel with in Cali. He had upgraded to FI and gave me the carb. He had great success with this particular carb, so I figured it would be good to use. So I rebuilt it and installed it on my Jeep. I also did the Nutter by-bass. After setting the new high-speed idle and curb idle, I checked my timing and I was right at 8 deg BTDC, which I thought was a weird happenstance, has anyone else not had to set their timing after doing a Nutter bypass? As I was doing all this, I noticed my Jeep seemed to be running really rich at idle, so I adjusted the idle mixture screws to a leaner position and then reset the curb idle screw to maintain about 700 rpm at normal operating temp. I then went through the best lean idle procedure and tweaked the final screw position.

So, here's my headache now. After doing all the above, I took the Jeep for a test drive and it stumbles pretty hard in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears when you give it gas to accelerate. Is this a timing issue in that I'm not advanced enough or too advanced? Is it a mixture thing? I've gone through Jeep Hammer's posts on how to tune a computer-dizzy post Nutter but I haven't started messing with my dizzy yet to find out how retarded my relocutor is. I'm hoping it's something simple that I overlooked when I set up the carb or my timing. At idle & warm, my Jeep pulls about 19" Hg. It's been pushing oil into the air cleaner since 2001 (it sat in storage from late 2001 to 2007) , which I took as a sign of blow-by but the last compression test I had done in 2008 showed all cylinders in spec with no big press differences between cylinders. Anyway, trying to figure out this puzzle is driving me nuts, especially in the cold weather! Appreciate any ideas you guys might have!

thanks!

russ

Russ

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post #39 of 41 Old 01-09-2010, 10:19 PM
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Check your pvc valve blowing oil is a symptom of a stuck valve. Did you replace the coil when you did the up grade, if you haven't install the ford TFI coil. If you get the bracket from a ford 3.2 it's 3.0 it's bolts to the r/s inner skirt and has a place to mount the wiring harness to the alt. I haven't looked at the team rush but we gap the plugs to 45. with the TFI coil. check the fuel pressure also.

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My fleet:
86 CJ7 5.7 vortec. 4L60,D44's,OBA,Air tank bumpers w/D rings detroits,4.88,35" bfg, mt's 9500ti warn
86 CJ7 2.5 detroits, OBA 4.56, air tank bumpers, w/D rings,9500I warn 31x10.5x15, Trxus
86 CJ7 bone stock, w/factory 44 never seen the dirt soon to be for sale
87 Wrangler also never seen the dirt.
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post #40 of 41 Old 01-10-2010, 08:04 AM
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by Uncle Russ View Post
Ok, now that it looks like 2Xtreme has his problem figured out, I'll throw mine out to you.
Yup, thread closed usually when the OP has it figured so you should start your own thread. I was away for a couple days so was just catching up but am kinda tired of having 3 issues all going in in one thread, way too confusing.

You now are into team rush issues, this was a carb thread.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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post #41 of 41 Old 01-10-2010, 01:21 PM
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Good point, Mike. Will start a new thread. I'm thinking my problem is really carb and ECM bypass related.

Russ

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