Question about raptor liner prep that I haven't been able to find and answer to. -

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post #1 of 5 Old 04-29-2016, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Question about raptor liner prep that I haven't been able to find and answer to.

Hey guys, I'm painting and applying Raptor liner to my CJ5. Right now the tub is epoxy primed with body work. The under side is just epoxy primer.

I'm planning on painting it with a eggshell finish single stage acrylic urethane.

I was curious which option would be best: scuff the epoxy primer and apply bed liner, put 2k primer on and scuff that then apply, or go ahead and paint the whole thing and scuff the paint and apply the raptor to to the paint.

I like the idea of another layer of sealer(paint) in between the metal and bed liner, but I don't want to sacrifice adhesion.

Also it recommends 120-180 grit to scuff, and red scotch-brite int he corners and nooks, 120 seems like it would cut through the primer/paint down to bare metal in a lot of areas. Which would negate the purpose of putting the paint layer in there.

With fresh paint would a red scotch-brite be sufficient for scuffing everywhere?

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post #2 of 5 Old 04-29-2016, 09:21 PM
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An eggshell finish? Yikes. To each their own.
If it was me, I'd spray the color first only where the color needs to go. I wouldn't spray where the liner hoes, but wouldn't mask it off either. Overspray is fine. Let it fully dry/ cure and then tape off for the liner.

Your epoxy primer is the best adhesion and I wouldn't risk anything lifting the paint in the future and bringing the liner with it. I've sprayed two jeeps inside with that U pol liner and I really recommend it. It gets harder as the weeks pass so don't expect bullet proof right out of the box.

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post #3 of 5 Old 04-29-2016, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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It will be somewhere between eggshell and satin. I will be applying a bit less flatterer than "eggshell" the PPG MTX Urethane doesn't have "satin" on the spec sheet, so I'm taking the eggshell finish and using just a bit less flattener. The color will be AMC 6d (sand tan).

Thanks for the input! I was kind of thinking the epoxy primer would be the best bet.

any more opinions from others are welcome!
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post #4 of 5 Old 04-30-2016, 07:28 AM
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You lose the chemical bond to epoxy primer after 3 days, some brands vary on this time. Before that time is up there's no need to do any scuffing and that came straight from the tech staff at PPG. I used epoxy primer everywhere on mine and U-POL raptor undercoating on the bottom of the tub. I shot it within the 3 day window. I missed it on the inside of the tub and had to sand everywhere the U-Pol bedliner was going. I used 320 grit paper and it turned out as it should. Epoxy primer is hard and takes a bit more to scuff it up than other primers but I would think the scotch brite pads would be fine.
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post #5 of 5 Old 04-30-2016, 10:05 AM
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Raptor liner is a pure polyurethane, similar in makeup to Rhino. Self etching primer, scuffed, and wiped with acetone will give the best adhesion. The ideal target depth of scratches is .0010" The scuffing provides mechanical adhesion. The acetone wipe down cleans the surface of contaminants and promotes chemical adhesion. There are also adhesion promoters available but they aren't necessary in most cases. Avoid spraying the liner on bare metal, as it is very difficult to get the material to adhere to it.

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