Question about criming battery terminals... - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Question about criming battery terminals...

Poison Spyder DeFenders™ - "Tubeless" Jeep FendeAll Bilstein shocks & struts - Lowest Prices Ever and Santa Kolak Announces: Kolak Exhaust 20% Off Sale!

Reply
Unread 12-18-2014, 06:28 AM   #1
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,283
Question about criming battery terminals...

...I recently received a TEMco hammer type terminal crimer and anticipate this will work fine on the lugs.

Can the tool be used with a shop press to crimp the battery terminal without damaging the tool or terminal?



__________________
You can't sit at the big boy table if you are gonna whine like a girl...M
243 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 06:52 AM   #2
JoeyPlatinum
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 13
It can.
JoeyPlatinum is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 08:35 AM   #3
turbogus
Registered User
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Albany~town, Oregon, Oregon my home and for 200 billion slugs
Posts: 1,503
I went with one of these hydraulic crimpers (like a bottle jack) and their dies go way up to 1/0, mind you it was made in lower slovobia but I don't do wiring for a living and this is working just fine for now.




That's a little bead of solder in the cuff of the terminal before I applied my soldering gun and 3M adhesive lined heat shrink tubing
JeepHammer has a great write up about electrical wiring that's worth a read;
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/be...1/#post7724128
__________________
The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 12:38 PM   #4
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,283
Nice crimper...I am reading the threads and planning the attack

I found infrared photos of a crimped connection vs a crimped and soldered connection is there is a visible difference in heat when loaded.

I can just imagine how inefficient the generic battery clamp with the sheet metal strap holding my cable must be even when clean and tight.

Thanks, Joey
__________________
You can't sit at the big boy table if you are gonna whine like a girl...M
243 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 01:06 PM   #5
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,835
Unless your going to be towing things with your battery cables, I think the best solution out there is the Fusion Solder ends by QuickCable. They're prefilled with solder, you strip 7/8" from the ends, heat the connector, and push the cable into the molten solder. They say it's 70% stronger, not sure if I believe it's that much but as I said, your not towing with them. A solid electrical connection is the important thing.
On ends that I don't use them on I melt some solder in the end, such as a copper ring lug, to seal that, then stick the cable in and use a vice to crimp it tight. Then solder the rim.
http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=74
Watch the video.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 01:47 PM   #6
jetmech1
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 215
Quote:
Originally Posted by renegade82
unless your going to be towing things with your battery cables, i think the best solution out there is the fusion solder ends by quickcable. They're prefilled with solder, you strip 7/8" from the ends, heat the connector, and push the cable into the molten solder. They say it's 70% stronger, not sure if i believe it's that much but as i said, your not towing with them. A solid electrical connection is the important thing. On ends that i don't use them on i melt some solder in the end, such as a copper ring lug, to seal that, then stick the cable in and use a vice to crimp it tight. Then solder the rim. http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageid=74 watch the video.
x2^^^^^
jetmech1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 04:23 PM   #7
DougE
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 240
Renegade - who sells the fusion solder ends by quick cable? (Or do they sell small quantities to home mechanics?)
__________________
1983 CJ7, 258I6, T4, Dana 300, 2" Lift, 31x10.5x15 DuraTrac
DougE is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 04:25 PM   #8
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert, CO
Posts: 10,982
I couldn't justify buying a crimper for a one time only job, so I did a version of the pre-soldered connectors using standard quality connectors.

I simply clamped the connector in my vise, heated it up and filled it with about a 3/8" of solder. Then, I heated it again until the solder was molten, and shoved the end of the stripped cable in.

To test the strength, I hung the cables by the connectors from a large bolt in the rafters of my garage, and pulled my entire 225 pounds up with nothing but the cable. The connectors didn't budge, so I was satisfied they were plenty strong.

Matt
Matt1981CJ7 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 05:33 PM   #9
RedNeckCorvette
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Oregon Coast, OR
Posts: 408
I have a bunch of bronze connectors in use, old surplus from WW2.
I usually clean the interior of the cup, add flux [LA-CO best flux I ever found] to the wire and the cup, heat it with a torch from the furthest point away from the insulation wile filling with solder. Back to work.
RN
batt-001-3.jpg

RedNeckCorvette is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 06:46 PM   #10
turbogus
Registered User
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Albany~town, Oregon, Oregon my home and for 200 billion slugs
Posts: 1,503
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I couldn't justify buying a crimper for a one time only job
Matt
I went back and forth on this too, but I have a couple of friends that would like to borrow these and, since they weren't top of the line crimpers and cheap, I took the plunge. When it comes to parts however, whenever possible I go with the best I can afford.
__________________
The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 07:08 PM   #11
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,835
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougE View Post
Renegade - who sells the fusion solder ends by quick cable? (Or do they sell small quantities to home mechanics?)
I got mine thru McMaster-Carr but I'm sure you can find them at several other places.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#battery-connectors/=v30gph
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 08:28 PM   #12
JeepHammer
Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,712
I learned about terminals through trial and error...
Mechanical Crimp, Electrical Solder.

A friend does infrared inspections of buildings to see where they are leaking heat,
But mostly he does electrical inspections of industrial places.
The higher the temp, the more restance.

Restiance builds heat, Heat builds more restiance, the cycle continues until something fails...

He was jacking around one day with the Gun and shot my solar batteries/cables and found one warmer than the others,
And sure enough I'd missed soldering it.
Once it got soldered, the temp dropped right back in line with the rest of the terminals.

As for 'Solder Only'...
I simply can't believe a solder only connection is 70% stronger than a crimp/solder connection.
Just not buying that bit of advertisement propaganda.

I do know that solder only terminals will DE-Solder and let the cable go of you load them hard enough.
I de-soldered my winch twice back when I was trying the solder pellet terminals,
And several terminals de-soldered in the strip mines that I serviced (where I first saw and tried the solder only terminals)

Granted, I was trying to run an 8,000 lb winch on 4 Ga battery cable when they overheated/de-soldered.
One time the cable fell out of the terminal, the second time the solder just ran out and the cable/terminal pretty much burned up.

I'm thinking that solder you can melt AND overheat/burn up with a heat gun might be too low a melting point for heavily loaded cables,
Or maybe I got a bad batch of solder pellets with the terminals...

I'm not a solder engineer, so I stick with a mechanical crimp,
silver bearing actual electrical solder and it works...
If the other stuff works for you, then I would say stick with it.
JeepHammer is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-18-2014, 11:10 PM   #13
RedNeckCorvette
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Oregon Coast, OR
Posts: 408
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
I learned about terminals through trial and error...
Mechanical Crimp, Electrical Solder.

A friend does infrared inspections of buildings to see where they are leaking heat,
But mostly he does electrical inspections of industrial places.
The higher the temp, the more restance.

Restiance builds heat, Heat builds more restiance, the cycle continues until something fails...

He was jacking around one day with the Gun and shot my solar batteries/cables and found one warmer than the others,
And sure enough I'd missed soldering it.
Once it got soldered, the temp dropped right back in line with the rest of the terminals.

As for 'Solder Only'...
I simply can't believe a solder only connection is 70% stronger than a crimp/solder connection.
Just not buying that bit of advertisement propaganda.

I do know that solder only terminals will DE-Solder and let the cable go of you load them hard enough.
I de-soldered my winch twice back when I was trying the solder pellet terminals,
And several terminals de-soldered in the strip mines that I serviced (where I first saw and tried the solder only terminals)

Granted, I was trying to run an 8,000 lb winch on 4 Ga battery cable when they overheated/de-soldered.
One time the cable fell out of the terminal, the second time the solder just ran out and the cable/terminal pretty much burned up.

I'm thinking that solder you can melt AND overheat/burn up with a heat gun might be too low a melting point for heavily loaded cables,
Or maybe I got a bad batch of solder pellets with the terminals...

I'm not a solder engineer, so I stick with a mechanical crimp,
silver bearing actual electrical solder and it works...
If the other stuff works for you, then I would say stick with it.
Hammer If I ever tried to crimp those old 12-24 volt military bronze connectors they would brake, there are different sizes in the tray on the right for various wire size. That may be silver plating for all I know.
I am sure If I had a terminal crimp and most of all twelve volt, soft battery terminals. I would without a doubt crimp first then solder.
RN
RedNeckCorvette is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-19-2014, 01:11 AM   #14
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,835
I think you'd be there for the better part of a day trying to melt the Fusion Solder with a heat gun. The video shows them using a mapp gas torch but I used a propane one and it took a bit before it flashed over. And theres a good bit of solder in there.
If it's getting so hot that it can melt the solder then something major is wrong and it's probably a good thing if it were to pull out and disconnect the power. But I'm sure theres weaker spots downstream that would melt thru first.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-19-2014, 08:35 AM   #15
turbogus
Registered User
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Albany~town, Oregon, Oregon my home and for 200 billion slugs
Posts: 1,503
It may sound as though I may be erring on the side of caution when I crimp and solder, but with my very limited free time (7 day work week) when I fix something I want it to stay fixed. This idiom I had to beat into the head of a mech. working on a belt squeal on 'Easy Bake' (my black panel van) pointing out the polished pulley more than once while he only wanted to further tighten the dual V belts.
__________________
The parts shop that stocks part for Skylab II will not have parts for our year/model of Jeep
We cannot accurately judge the trajectory of a speeding critter (cat, dog, sasquatch)
Record heat waves and floods only occur when we visit that area
turbogus is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.