Quadratrac swap thread - Page 8 - JeepForum.com

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post #106 of 133 Old 09-26-2013, 07:48 PM
lucdog
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Of the shift kit you bought works even 1/2 as good as mine your really going to like it. On the road, I have been shifting around 16/1700 rpm. Don't even notice it, jump into the throttle and you do notice. Mine shifts "RIGHT NOW!! It's been awesome on the sand dunes today ( google silver lake sand dunes for YouTube. )

If you ever decide to go with a B&M style floor shifter, either call me . Or send a PM. So I can tell you what I do and don't like about what I have.

I will say this, I wouldn't want a manual valve body if I were just driving on the street. And the floor shifter is more precise than the column shifter I ran for 2 years. There's no slop with what I have.

Bill

I used a hose clamp on the zerk, instead of what I took the picture of. ( the squeeze clamp)


1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #107 of 133 Old 09-27-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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Location: Scottdale
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I've given some thought to a floor shifter in the past. It would be nice for wheeling. Mine used to pop out of gear, and bind up and wouldn't go into gear as the body flexed. I made my own shifter linkage with heim joints on each end, and it's worked perfectly ever since. A new flange bearing in the frame for the trans linkage helped also.

Don't feel like I got much done today, except to install and remove the belly pan a half dozen times. According to the adapter instructions, you just need to drill new holes for the mount an inch or two rearward. The belly pan for the Q-trac makes that impossible.
I thought of moving the belly pan rearward, but I didn't have enough space to drill new holes in the pan.
New mounting holes in the frame to move it would have worked also, but welding in new nutserts overhead isn't a job I wanted to get into right now.

I ended up cutting a piece out of the hump where the q-trac mount normally goes, and building a box for the new mount to sit on. Making it tougher, the adapter that the mount bolts to is angled for clearance purposes. I wish Novak would have simply machined the bottom of the mount flat to save some hassle.













I think I got this mount figured out. I was too tired to install the belly pan another time.
I still need to make a place to install a mount that goes onto the foot on the Dana 18 front output housing. Hopefully it goes pretty easy.
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post #108 of 133 Old 09-28-2013, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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I must have had the belly pan on and off at least a dozen times today. Who would have thought building two simple little metal boxes would be so much work.
Getting the mounts to line up consisted of installing the belly pan, planning what I wanted to do, measuring, build a little, install the pan again, measure some more, tack everything in place, install the pan again, adjust things, install pan again, mark the holes, install pan again, adjust some more, etc......
Doing everything from below is tough to get right.
If I ever build a new skid pan, I'm pulling the body off to do it.

My stick welder crapped out after one pass, so I had to pull out my Hobo Fright 110v wire feed to finish the job. What I planned as a few simple welds, turned into hours of making multiple passes, and waiting on the duty cycle.
Got what I need to done eventually, but I hoped to make new driveshafts tomorrow. Without my welder, I don't know what I'm going to do now.

At least he transfer case, and belly pan, are permanently mounted now. And I am exhausted.
Planned to cut the hole in the floor today, but I'm done for the day.
It can wait till tomorrow.







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post #109 of 133 Old 09-29-2013, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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Cut the hole in the floor for the shifters. Sealed the cut ends up with some fiberglass resin, and made a metal cover plate that screws on for access. I still need to get some type of boot, the rubber one I bought was useless. Luckily I only paid about $4 for it.
Had to cut a second hole to slide the pin in for the shift levers.
I Was surprised at how close to the passenger's side they ended up. Not a problem though.








I Got all of the little thing buttoned up. Still couldn't drive it because my welder is down, and I need it to make driveshafts.

I dug around in my pile of junk parts, and found an old skinney front half driveshaft with a bad slip joint. Found an old yoke the same size with hammered up ears.
Maybe I could do something with the 110v HF welder to give me a test drive down the road and back.








I sure wouldn't trust it for anything but a test run. Looking at the angle in the picture, and how much my rear somehow got pointed upward (I did switch from 4" to 5" shackles), I may just source up a DC shaft for the rear.
Got to get the welder fixed first before I can go any farther. Unless I pay somebody to do them for me.

Got the T-case filled up.
Put a gallon of ATF in, and it started pouring out the bottom. Tracked it down to the dipstick. I know I put that O-ring on there. At least I think I did.
I originally put the dipstick in, and had the mounting bracket wrong, and had to pull it back out to re-adjust it. The O-ring may have pulled off then.
Spent an hour pulling it and putting another O-ring on, after somebody stole the other one........

Hit the key to start it, and nothing. Just a rapidly clicking soloniod. Checked the voltage at the battery 12. something....
Tracked it down to the starter. Pulled it off and tried it hooked directly to the booster box. Nothing but a lot of sparks...
I just put that starter on a few months back.

The saga continues tomorrow I guess.
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post #110 of 133 Old 10-01-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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After tracking down a non-shifting problem, and sweating bullets that I didn't have to pull the trans over something I messed up, it's running fine. I ran it around the neighborhood for awhile on the temporary rear driveshaft I made.
So far, everything seems OK.
The Dana 18 sure makes alot more noise that the Q-trac did, especially in low range, but I think the tradeoff is worth it. I can live with a little gear whine. If I want a nice quiet ride, I'll drive my truck.

I still need to make my driveshafts, fix my ladder bar, and do some work for the exhaust. Due to the D18 being smaller that the Q-trac, everything will be easier to fit.

All in all, not a bad swap (although I have nothing to compare it to). Definitely a lot of work. I started with no knowledge of what I was doing (especially auto transmissions), and basic tools. I bought a few along the way such as seal drivers, a dial indicator, and a transmission jack.
Some welding is necessary, and a little fabrication skill. Nothing major though.

I went with the most basic swap, re-using everything I had. I saw no reason to rebuild anything. I just replaced gaskets and seals along the way, in both the trans and transfer case.

A rundown of the parts I used.
Dana 18 to TH400 adapter from Novak. Bought it from BJ's Offroad for $100 less than Novak's.
Transmission mount from Novak's.
Dana 18 gasket and seal kit from Novaks.
TH400 gasket and seal kit.
About 2.5 gal of ATF.
About 2 qts of gear oil.
Plenty of brake parts cleaner, and de-greaser.
A little blood, a lot of sweat, but so far no tears.

I still have a few loose ends to wrap up, but I need to get me welder repaired first.
I guess I can call the swap complete.
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post #111 of 133 Old 10-01-2013, 06:23 PM
243
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Good job, but you need to change your signature to be complete

1978 Cherokee, TBI 360/T400/QT...6.0/6L80/NP241C in the works...
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post #112 of 133 Old 10-01-2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Good job, but you need to change your signature to be complete
Good catch.
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post #113 of 133 Old 10-01-2013, 07:30 PM
mattl
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Let us know how she does in the dirt!

1986 CJ7, AMC 360, NP435, D300, Tera60 w/Detroit, D44 welded, SOA, 37" MTR
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post #114 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 01:51 PM
roboto65
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Awesome job ashame about the welder.

They say money can't buy happiness but it can buy Jeep parts...and Jeep parts make me really Happy.
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post #115 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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Originally Posted by roboto65 View Post
Awesome job ashame about the welder.
I'm hoping it's just something simple, I found a burned out diode.
I scratch my head in amazement looking inside of it. There is absolutely nothing to it. It boggles my mind how such a simple machine can melt steel together using electricity, and not kill me in the process.
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post #116 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 05:14 PM
lucdog
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Of you still need the info on the kick down switch let me know. When you said it was shifting fine, I didn't check mine.

B

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #117 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Of you still need the info on the kick down switch let me know. When you said it was shifting fine, I didn't check mine.

B
I think as long as it's running fine, I probably don't want to know. LOL If it does happen to be wrong, it will bug me to no end.
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post #118 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 07:03 PM
lucdog
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This is the one I did the valve body on, it's paper, and pretty thin.

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1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #119 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 07:10 PM
lucdog
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This is from the one I don't believe has been apart. It's steel, and came off like this.

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Actually from the picture , there's the rubber, the steel plate ( from between the gaskets) and the case side paper gasket.

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #120 of 133 Old 10-02-2013, 07:20 PM
lucdog
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In this picture you can see 2 different switches. The one on the left used a paper gasket (new valve body, tranny been into before. )
Damn now I confused. I'd say as long as you have 1 or the other, your good
The other one is from the orignal tranny (untouched internals)
So basically one used paper, the other used the round rubber.

Both had different styles of modulators. 1 from '76, the other from '79. I redid the one from '76. But it could also be '71, the same year as the 360.

B

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1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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