I found it easiest to remove the low range unit, then the TC, after draining.dont forget the low range rod. Here's the steps I did, worked well.
1,) removed rear driveshaft.
1.5) drained the tranny and TC.
2.) supported the tranny at the pan, and the engine oil pan, both with floor jacks. (For safety)
3.) removed the mounting bolts for the torque arm, removed the skid plate.
4.) removed the front driveshaft. ( lots easier this way)
5.) took the jack from the engine pan, and put it under the trans mount.
6.) Removed the jack from the tranny pan, and put the tranny jack under the pan. The whole thing (engine and tranny are now supported by the tranny jack.
7.) removed the jack from the tranny mount, and put it under the engine oil pan.
So the engine is supported by the floor jack, tranny supported by the tranny jack.
That's where I'm at till tomorrow morning, the swap will happen then.
So what's left to do is disconnect the battery, remove the cooling lines and starter. Then the tranny bolts.
At any point in time the inspection covers, and torque converter bolts can be removed. Then pry the TQ towards the tranny 1/4 to 1/2" and secure it with bailing wire. I posted a picture earlier for prying. I'll post a picture tomorrow of the engine side of the converter.
A swivel socket and 2' (or more) of 3/8" extension are needed ( 3' would be best) to get to the tranny mounting bolts. I don't like to let the engine and tranny down to far, don't want to break the engine mounts, (the rubber).
If you find the torque converter is painted, most likely the Torque converter has been replaced, and possibly the tranny worked on or rebuilt.
One more thing. According to the guy who helped me, the Torque converter is the same one as the Chevy application .
I know the Chevy torque converter uses 3 bolts to hold it to the flexplate.
When I removed the 258 and installed the 360 I didn't remove the tranny, ( the beauty of a automatic) I was within a Cat wisker of cutting a hole in the floor, when trying to get the top bolts in. The one that holds the dip stick is a real pain. Don't forget the engine and tranny can be raised for better clearance. The swivel socket will work better than a universal and socket.
Also, don't forget or lose the alignment pins/ that align the engine/tranny.