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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:06 AM   #16
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
Did you try the chain from Alloy USA?

I want to pick up a spare for my Cherokee because I don't know when the 5.3/4L60/NP241 swap will happen.

I did not find any information on their chain, but I know the one-piece axles were stamped Made in India.
From what i understand the only usa made chains made are the Morse. They are $375 a pop.
The alloy usa chains are chinese made.
I ruined one of them in four hours.

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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:24 AM   #17
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Do you remember the brand of chain that you put in the last time? Wasn't it one that Eddie gave you. It sure didnt last very long.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:29 AM   #18
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That is what I expected, I tried calling Alloy USA last week but they only except email questions.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 07:43 AM   #19
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Subscribed!

I can see ditching the Q-trac will be in my future, so I will be watching this thread closely.
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Unread 09-04-2013, 08:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Do you remember the brand of chain that you put in the last time? Wasn't it one that Eddie gave you. It sure didnt last very long.
Yeah. That was a Morse. If it wasnt brand new, it was darn close. That was almost a year of hard use.

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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 243 View Post
That is what I expected, I tried calling Alloy USA last week but they only except email questions.
I do know of a place that has a few Morse chains left If you ever want one. They want top dollar though. $375
Cobra transmission. Easy to find with a web search.

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Unread 09-04-2013, 06:40 PM   #22
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Subscribed!

I can see ditching the Q-trac will be in my future, so I will be watching this thread closely.
We can both learn together. Lol

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Unread 09-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #23
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Got the 18 cleaned up and put back together today. New seal in the rear, and all new gaskets. Hopefully I did everything right. I read everything I could while waiting for the gaskets to arrive. I guess I'll learn like I do everything else, tear in and have a go at it.



I'm going to order the adapter next Friday. Hopefully start tearing everything apart the following weekend.
That should be interesting. I've never pulled a tranny before, much less gutted one out and put it back together. Seems easy enough though.
This thread may be good for a chuckle anyhow.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:07 AM   #24
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I have a 79 with a Q-trak that I want to put back on the road. I will be watching this thread to see how yours turns out. Good luck!!!
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Unread 09-08-2013, 05:02 PM   #25
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Now the big question...1st of many I'm sure of.
What to do with the trans when it's torn down to swap out the tailshaft? It runs fine, shifts fine, ATF looks good enough to drink.
Just a basic seal and gasket kit like this?
http://www.monstertransmission.com/B...on_p_4813.html
Will all of that stuff even be needed?? Are they all basically the same, Jeep, Chevy??

This is something I know nothing about, but want to gain a basic understanding of.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 08:53 PM   #26
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First off im no tranny expert. everything im telling you was learned from watching my Gran Prix and full size GMC Jimmy transmission being disasembled. The first indication will be when you pull the pan. Pour the fluid out gently. A couple things your looking for,
Small bits of brass.
And the amount of clutch disc fibers along with metal on the magnet. ( one should be stuck inside the pan)

I believe the brass is from the torque converter, most the other is from clutch disc wear.

You will need a good size work bench to lay out all the pieces and parts .

It's my understanding the tranny has to be completely disassembled to change the main shaft for the Dana 18. I believe all the clutch disc will be in a basket the main shaft is attached too, certain disc go in certain places.

I would plan on at least replacing the torque converter. (This is what I would do) I would'nt get rid of the old one, for the reason of Availability of a replacement. The AMC TC only uses 3 bolts/studs to hold the converter to the flexplate. GM uses 4. So I believe the're Engine transmission specific.
The converter gets pulled with the transmission and reinstalled in the tranny before bolting the tranny to the engine. Use bailing wire to hold the TC in place. This is to prevent breaking of the dogs/cogs that drive the pump.

After removing the inspection cover, the engine needs rotated by hand for access to all three of the nuts that hold the TC to the flex plate. The TC then gets pushed into the tranny further, ( like a 1/2" ) and the bailing wire installed to secure it.


I also wouldn't take the tranny apart without a manual. ( but mainly for reassembly)

I would also install a mild shift kit, this will firm up the shifts. This will make for less wear on the discs in the future.

Don't forget to block under the engine oil pan, I'd use a floor jack and a small piece of 2x6.
A couple of long extensions will come in real handy when removing the bell housing bolts.
I would also remove the dip stick tube before dropping the transmission, it seals with a "O" ring, and is held in with a tranny to engine bolt, close to where the heater hose on the intake is at. (304/360/401) .

A good tranny jack will be a must have. I have 2, both from harbor freight. The first one I bought replaces the "cup" on a floor jack, this one is crap! It won't let the tranny down far enough to clear the frame. The one I use is like a Scissors jack, this is the one you want.

That pretty much all I know, hope it helps some.

Edit, the only difference in the TH 400 between the GM and Jeep version is the mounting pattern to the engine. I'm not certain on the TC, I would be willing to bet it's AMC specific as to the 3 bolt pattern ( I could be wrong on this one)

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 09:07 PM   #27
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Forgot 1 thing. A vent line. You may see a small plastic tube on the top of the tranny, where the main housing meets the bell housing, this would be the vent line. I would either add a vent if you don't have 1 ( research this) or at least extend the vent up to the firewall like the transfer case and axles.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 09-08-2013, 10:47 PM   #28
mattl
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Great idea on the Dana 18! I'm curious how it will handle the power of the 258? Did Jeep ever install the Dana 18 behind the Dauntless Buick 225, or was that the Dana 20? That V6 made more horsepower, but lower torque than the 258 I-6 I think.
Keep us posted on the build-up.
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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:25 AM   #29
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Thanks Bill.
Why replace the torque converter? I thought they either worked, or didn't. Keep in mind, I know next to nothing about trannys.

The vent line had been extended when I had the body off last and neatened a few things up. Never checked to see if it actually vented or not though. I'll have to remember to make sure it's not plugged.

I have a buddy coming down to help me remove the trans. He knows how to remove them, just not how to work on them.
Good to know about the HF scissor lift. I had planned to buy one. Glad to hear a good review.

The fluid was changed within the last year, and I was very, very surprised at how nice everything looked. Hopefully it still looks the same inside.
I'm hoping to just do the bare minimum needed to swap the tail shaft. I have been kicking around a mild shift kit as you mentioned.

Hopefully I can find out what all gaskets and seals I'm going to need.

I watched a few good videos last night, and the teardown seems pretty simple. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
I still have a couple of weeks to learn before I tear things down. The adapters are still listed as being in production right now.

Steve.
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Unread 09-09-2013, 02:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattl View Post
Great idea on the Dana 18! I'm curious how it will handle the power of the 258? Did Jeep ever install the Dana 18 behind the Dauntless Buick 225, or was that the Dana 20? That V6 made more horsepower, but lower torque than the 258 I-6 I think.
Keep us posted on the build-up.
I believe the large hole Dana 18 came behind the V6. Very hard to find those.

Strength shouldn't be a problem. I don't have a heavy right foot, and my CJ sure doesn't make much power.

This is from Novak's website.

Strength
It is nearly remarkable how much power this compact transfer case can transmit and sustain. It is not so rare to see them handling Big Block grade power and deep, compound gearing.
The 18 is not without a fuse when under extreme service; its offset design causes the reactive driven torque of the driveshafts to apply a large upward moment force against the case and the case can split between the intermediate shaft bore and the PTO port or the case bottom opening. Gears (as with any gearbox) may break under some outstanding circumstances. Also, the forces of the front helical gearset are not captured and balanced by the rear spur gearset, causing these forces to be applied against the case, which may stretch it to a failure point. However, these situations are quite rare and essentially non-issues for the appropriate driver, Jeep and terrain.
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