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Unread 02-15-2012, 01:13 PM   #31
jaxfljeep
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I thought about the solenoid and push button, but for me, I really like the mechanical ball valve. I can give a very quick short, almost quiet honk all the way up to full open, hands off operation.

The extra added benefit is my kids, nephews, nieces and others get to turn the handle and they think it is pretty cool too. Seeing my youngest turn the handle the first time made me happy, and she had a blast, no pun intended. I also like how it lets them see the mechanics and physics involved that they might not easily understand with a button. They push enough buttons on games and computers as far as I am concerned.

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Unread 02-15-2012, 02:22 PM   #32
_Ross
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Unread 02-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #33
TKFireman
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I think a pull rope to actuate the horns would have a definate cool factor, maybe ran between the rollbar and windshield. I've been thinking about air horns for a while, just haven't gotten to that point on the to-do list.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 09:30 PM   #34
dslywalker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxfljeep View Post
Even when finished, my horns look like the last picture in post #2, where you can see the blue diaphram.

As for pressure on the PVC, there really is none. The pressure from the tank is held back by the valve. When pressure is released the air goes through the manifold, and through the brass nipple, then the diaphram releases with vibration and the air/sound waves goes up the center 1" pipe. I understand your concern over the heat and constant pressure on the PVC, but there is none. I am more concerned about the diaphrams holding up over time, but that is why I made the back 4" retaining ring removable so the diaphram can be replaced.
Great Job and well thought out then.Enjoy that horn,I won't let my wife see this post.I keep a horn off her Jeep for a reason.
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Unread 02-22-2012, 08:31 PM   #35
scoutboater
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Hey Jax,

Out of curiosity, do you have any info on what lengths of 1" pipe make what particular notes? I dug up all the parts at the HD the other day (I'll have an extra reducer to get from 4" to 1", but thats no big deal...), and I'm trying to figure out how long to cut my tube.
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Unread 02-23-2012, 01:48 PM   #36
jaxfljeep
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I do not know what lengths would create the specific musical notes. I basically cut mine off in graduated lengths and tried to be uniform in the difference in length. I can measure the 1" pvc length and post if you like.
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Unread 02-23-2012, 06:03 PM   #37
scoutboater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxfljeep View Post
I do not know what lengths would create the specific musical notes. I basically cut mine off in graduated lengths and tried to be uniform in the difference in length. I can measure the 1" pvc length and post if you like.
Ok, thanks! Don't worry about measuring the lengths, it just gives me an excuse to experiment.
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Unread 12-01-2012, 06:10 PM   #38
bradeparker
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Awesome project and my neighbors hate you. Built one in about an hour for my sons state football playoff game. Blew the first diaphragm out and have a Coors Light can in there for now.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 09:13 AM   #39
jugglerone
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How do I get the diaphram set right and how tight?

I can not seem to get good pressure and air leaks out. Can anyone help tel me how to set the diaph? I am using sheet metal. does the cut job on the metal have to be perfect? Thanks for any ideas...
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Unread 10-16-2013, 10:27 AM   #40
PantherChicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxfljeep View Post
Even when finished, my horns look like the last picture in post #2, where you can see the blue diaphram.

As for pressure on the PVC, there really is none. The pressure from the tank is held back by the valve. When pressure is released the air goes through the manifold, and through the brass nipple, then the diaphram releases with vibration and the air/sound waves goes up the center 1" pipe. I understand your concern over the heat and constant pressure on the PVC, but there is none. I am more concerned about the diaphrams holding up over time, but that is why I made the back 4" retaining ring removable so the diaphram can be replaced.
I have to second the concern about using PVC. It tends to shatter under air pressure. Your reasoning above is partially correct. There is certainly less air pressure through the body of the horn than your initial 100 psi...but it only reaches 0 at the end of the flute. Without pressure IN the horn, you would hear no noise, and no air would flow. The horn itself is most definitely under positive air pressure when it sounds.

It's a super-cool project, and you did a great job documenting it. I would enjoy doing it myself, using the same materials...but let's not kid ourselves, there is the potential for things to go wrong....
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Unread 10-16-2013, 11:05 AM   #41
jaxfljeep
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Glad to see this project still has life......

I tried thin metal for the diaphram, but like you, could not get them to work consistently. That is why I went with the plastic. You can press the 1" pipe down on the plastic and get a better seal. Once again, the seal is necessary, or there will be no vibration, and no sound.

Every time I tried with thin metal, it seemed to wrinkle or crease somewhat.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 11:23 AM   #42
jaxfljeep
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I guess we will have to agree to disagree on the pvc. PVC pipe is designed to handle constant pressure in plumbing applications. In the train horn application, there is no constant pressure at all. The only time there is pressure, is when the air valve is opened, and the pressure is "released" around the diaphram. I can hear my horn diaphrams moving and releasing the pressure even when I run as little as 15 pounds of pressure through them. In other words, they are not holding back enough pressure to put much stress on the PVC, in my opinion.

Having said all of that, my horns are still working, with no signs of pvc stress or problems. My horns are mounted under the hood of my CJ-7, zip tied to the radiator core support rods, and are subject to the Florida heat/humidity, and underhood heat.

I promise you they are not holding back anywhere near as much pressure as is built up in a PVC potato gun, but that is another story and project altogether....
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Unread 10-16-2013, 11:32 AM   #43
CSP
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Regarding the pressure aspect, the rating for pressure in PVC is for liquids. Liquids do not expand when there's a rupture. Gases expand exponentially, which is where the danger lies. This expansion blows the PVC into tiny shards when (not if) there is a rupture, so the danger is real.

It's not likely that you will have a problem, but the potential truly is there.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 02:12 PM   #44
PantherChicken
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CSP beat me to it - plumbing ratings are different than air pressure because fluids aren't compressible. When a fracture occurs, the liquid doesn't suddenly expand to 100 times it's size.

I used to work at a 'universally known' water heater manufacturer. They hydrostatically test their tanks at 100 psi. They air test them at 20 psi. The reason- that air test is far, far, more dangerous than the water test. I've seen failures of both. A water tank will shoot a weak jet for a moment and then dribble. An air-pressurized tank will blow the bottom out like a cannonball. Many many people have lost limbs that way.
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Unread 10-16-2013, 05:04 PM   #45
puppetkicker
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I want to give a big thank you to you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNaZS...ature=youtu.be
Thank You For Your Help On This. I Followed Everything U Said And I Made One Myself And I Also Made A How To Video.
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