I had to rebuild my front driveline. I asked a machine shop if he could make a bigger one for me. He said in his experience that for a larger diameter shaft on a suspension lift of 4in on the CJ7 that the larger shaft is going to hit the cross member at full flex. He said I could put in a dual yoke to fix the problem but they tend to wear out faster. Any thoughts suggestions?
1981 CJ7 with a 4in Rough Country lift
It will be close as it is with a 4" lift so he's got a point. Don't beef up the u-joints though, you want them to be the weak link in any drivetrain. They are the easiest and cheapest to fix, should things be over stressed. And the 30 isn't a brute to begin with.
I had a stock rear shaft retubed for my front. Had to notch the skid plate a little but it fit.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D
Yep, a lot of people just cut a notch in the skid plate
1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
I also have a re-tubed rear driveline in the front. I have a relatively short transmission (T-177), and have 1/2" clearance at full droop, 2 1/2" lift, though. All sorts of factors make a difference, motor mounts, transmission mount are all new on mine.
There are some things you will learn while holding a cat by the tail that can be learned no other way...