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Unread 02-15-2012, 06:49 PM   #1
only in a jeep cj
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Which puller for model 20 diff bearings

I see there is two small areas cast into the case at opposing ends of the bearing area so the puller arms can hook the race edge for the pull.

My question is which puller is best and will fit this application. I don't want to buy a Craftsman with non locking arms and too wide of an arm when autozone or whoever has the correct one.

So who has the best puller?
THANKS

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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
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Unread 02-15-2012, 09:52 PM   #2
jeepdaddy2000
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You have two choices. Either a bearing splitter
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=beari...d=0CKMCEK0DMDI,
or this specialty tool http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...w/IMG_3287.jpg
I own the second and it is unparallelled for removing pinion and carrier bearings. It is, however, much more expensive than a bearing splitter and a 2 jawed puller.
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Unread 02-15-2012, 11:09 PM   #3
Outnumbered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
You have two choices. Either a bearing splitter
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=beari...d=0CKMCEK0DMDI,
or this specialty tool http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...w/IMG_3287.jpg
I own the second and it is unparallelled for removing pinion and carrier bearings. It is, however, much more expensive than a bearing splitter and a 2 jawed puller.
Links dont work for non pirate 4x4 members. Can you tell us what they are? thanks
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Unread 02-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #4
only in a jeep cj
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Yeah, Ive seen this tool before. I just want to really confirm it will work on a Model 20 as there is no lip under the bearing other than those two indent areas. Some places say it will work, but for 350 bucks, I want to be sure. I will be using it on 44s and 60s as well, but need it now on a 20.
I see the splitter/puller combo too. Will that mess up or distort a good bearing during the pull?

Thanks

http://www.performance4trucks.com/Dr...13&t_pl=101717
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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 02-16-2012, 12:13 AM   #5
80cj
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I use a Snap on differential bearing puller. This OTC set is almost an exact duplicate of what I use and cheaper. OTC makes good tools. http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat.../otc-4520.html
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Unread 02-16-2012, 05:06 AM   #6
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Yeah, Ive seen this tool before. I just want to really confirm it will work on a Model 20 as there is no lip under the bearing other than those two indent areas. Some places say it will work, but for 350 bucks, I want to be sure. I will be using it on 44s and 60s as well, but need it now on a 20.
I see the splitter/puller combo too. Will that mess up or distort a good bearing during the pull?

Thanks

http://www.performance4trucks.com/Dr...13&t_pl=101717
The splitter is a multipurpose tool. That being said, yes, it can distort/pull the cage off the bearing. The G2 tool that only in a jeep was kind enough to post (sorry about the link, did a quick search for an image and that was the first to pop up) is a bit more limited in it's basic form, but is very safe. I have literally pulled hundreds of bearings from numerous applications with it and never lost a one. I purchased mine from Mac about 25 years ago . I think I payed about the same price back then!
It is "the" tool to have. The issue is, is it worth spending that kind of money for something you may only use a couple of times. You could probably get a local mechanic to finish the install for about the same price or even less.
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Unread 02-16-2012, 10:09 PM   #7
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Many diff cases have puller notches that are too small to allow purchase on the bearings with a finger type puller so I grind the notches deeper with a Dremel tool. This is helpful especially on Dana axles since you're actually pulling against the shim pack and you stand a good chance of damaging shims especially if the puller fingers slip. For that same reason, when working on Dana axles, I arrange the shims so that the thickest shim goes on the diff bearing journal first, that way it is less likely to be damaged by the puller. Of course, when working on Dana axle you should have a sufficient assortment of shims to allow for ones that get damaged. If you can afford it, the G2 type tool is the way to go. I'm still trying to justify the price and shipping cost of one.
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Unread 02-16-2012, 10:16 PM   #8
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I've had the Harbor Freight bearing splitter for 2 years. Tried to use it one time.

It looks nice in the case, and that's about it.

I would not recommend even thinking of buying it.

Bill
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Unread 02-16-2012, 10:26 PM   #9
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Yep, I am wanted to NOT distort the bearings for several reasons....

Looks like the G2 tool is the way to go. My wallet isn't happy, but the Jeep will be.....

Thanks for all the input.
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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 02-16-2012, 10:58 PM   #10
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Jeepdaddy,
Can you use a G2 type tool for pulling pinion bearings too?
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Unread 02-16-2012, 11:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
Jeepdaddy,
Can you use a G2 type tool for pulling pinion bearings too?
I just watched this so here it is

About 1:35 on shows the inner pinion bearing pull...

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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 02-17-2012, 12:37 AM   #12
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Thanks! I guess that explains why the puller is as tall as it is.
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Unread 02-17-2012, 05:01 AM   #13
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A couple of things...
First, many guys use a set of "set up" bearings. These have been hones to a slip fit on the carrier. Set up the backlash with the set up bearings, then press the new ones on when you get it right. This eliminates the multiple pulls to get the picture right. You may be able to go this route in stead of the puller. Know you may have to pull the bearings in the end anyway if something ends up going wrong.

If you get the puller, a couple of things to note.
Insure the bottom ring is flat on the race and completely on the puller body.Don't let threads show on the bottom or spin the ring below the body. Place one clamshell on, then spin the upper ring up tight against it. Install the second clam shell, then the retaining ring. This insures there is no slop, which will allow the race to ride up off the bearing.
I agree, it is a horrible price for a tool that probably cost ten dollars to make. It will, however, insure your not trying to chisel off a race stripped of its bearings and cage. It can also be used for any bearings you can get it to fit on. In the end, you may be able to e bay or craigslist it and recoup some cash.
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Unread 02-17-2012, 12:55 PM   #14
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I mentioned Dana axles in my previous post and for those, setup bearings as Jeepdaddy mentions saves time in pulling and reinstalling carrier bearings. But in the interest of addressing the OP's inquiry regarding the AMC 20, the nice thing about the AMC 20 (like a Ford 8.8 and GM 10 and 12 bolt) is that the carrier bearing shims are located between the bearing cup (race) and the housing so you only need to install the new bearings and that's it. No reason to have to remove themfrom the carrier again.
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