[Wolverine222W]

hey im not trying to be mean or anything but i saw that you were putting your galvanizing on before you were welding. that is probably not the best idea because you will get alot of contamination in your weld. also you will get alot of bubbles in your weld which these two things will seriously weaken your weld. if you do decide you want to weld over the galvanizing i would suggest using arc welding to do it. i would probably use 6010 or 6011 rods because they will kind of be able to get through it better.

[KrazyGimp]

if you are refering to the primer he is using, from what I gather it is made to put on bare metal that will be welded. It is to protect the metal in the areas that you won't really be able to hit with some type undercoating. It is supposed to be completely safe to weld through too with no contamination unlike with normal paint. I think it might have something to due with the fact that it's 90something % zinc.

[Fatman]

Originally Posted by Wolverine222W

hey im not trying to be mean or anything but i saw that you were putting your galvanizing on before you were welding. that is probably not the best idea because you will get alot of contamination in your weld. also you will get alot of bubbles in your weld which these two things will seriously weaken your weld. if you do decide you want to weld over the galvanizing i would suggest using arc welding to do it. i would probably use 6010 or 6011 rods because they will kind of be able to get through it better.

You're good, that's not a "mean thing to say or ask. Like Gimp said, it's weld through zinc primer. I'm blessed that Mr.Crowley recommended it in the sixth post.

I've got a 220v mig, why would I want to even consider doing the sheet mtl with a stick?

[omanalansanjr]

Just came across this thread, i was actually looking at my rust last night. Thanks man this thread will come in handy when i do mine....

Looks nice,

thanks
-O

[Fatman]

So Friday I had a severe case of "it's just too damn nice to go to the office".
Off I go with the cutting wheel to get rid of the bastage repair done by the PO



cut out the bad


make a pattern


cut out the 16ga
used a dewalt circular saw with 7" cut off blade


check the fit, confirm the bend angles


used my torch to heat up and a 4# BFH to anvil the bends


gotta say it went a lot easier than I thought it would

[Fatman]

Now since it was too nice to go to work Friday what do I do?
I know go to the beach with family for the day so Monday I can show up with a tan and catch crap from the boss.

It's how I roll, I'm always catching ****.
Sunday (today) gets us finished with the floor boards.

this one was easy mark the cut


cut out the junk


one more pattern


one piece of virgin steel


lil bit o heat, lil bit o BFH persuasion


weld, grind, clean up


damn, it hasn't even been humid here and Fridays work has some surface rust starting


going to seal up the bottom side when I call in ill Monday...... or maybe this Saturday

[jeepmor]

Not to be overly critical, but your welds should look better than that from that Miller welder. I have a lincoln myself, and when I open up the side to load wire, there is a user guide panel showing me settings for different metal thicknesses, welding wire diameters and gas combinations. It's usually spot on for me, once in a while I have to turn up the wire speed to get better beads. When welding, the sizzling bacon sound is key. If you can keep that going, you're doing great. The welds will look better. You have some contamination in some of those or you forgot to turn your gas on, or ran out.

I've done those very same floor pan repairs on a friends Dodge, not my jeep, and I do recall them being a bit of a pain to look pretty. Anyhow, more practice would be suggested. My stepdad was a welder for a while, kinda makes me real picky on them. No offense, they do look sound and your really not counting on them to hold the jeep up or anything.

On welding up holes that aren't too big (old snap holes and diaamond plate holes and so on, you can use a piece of copper plate in behind it while you weld up the hole. It won't consume the copper and won't blast your hole even bigger in the process where you meet the edge of your metal.

Other than that, sure looks like it beat the heck out of working. Nice to see somoene taking the time to restore an old CJ instead of just dumping the tub for scrap and finding themselves a YJ and converting.

A heat gun will make that original underlining tar stuff come off like no one's business. The rest will easily wipe off with lacquer thinner. I did this to my tub about 11 years ago after it caught on fire and I restored the whole thing much like you are now. However, I only had to fix some rust under the roll bar footings, my floorpans were pretty sound.

I undercoated the entire tub with a line-x type product as well as the interior. I would suggest you do the same or similar, but first, get a tube of urethane and fill all the seams and what not. I regret not doing this step to mine. And it would have only been about an hour and another $20 for the tube of urethane which can be had an most body paint supply stores.

Any bare metal should get hit with some etching primer before you shoot primer and paint. This stuff works great and 11 years later, my paint is still solid on my jeep. I used a PPG product.

Sorry if I'm telling you stuff you already know, but having done this very thing once, I thought it worth sharing with you since you've been gracious enough to share with us on the forum.

Good luck, have fun, and keep that kid busy. Keeps him off the streets. And he'll cherish the time you guys spend together on it. Especially if he thinks that one day it may be his toy.

jeepmor

[Fatman]

Yeah, I know the welds could (look) better, but I've only been with my welder two months. And yes, I forgot to turn on the gas once. The welds have good penetration and where they are fat is from either doing a second pass, burn thru, or just going to slow. The Jeep's not going to wait for me to get a certification.
And frankly, so long as they are strong and the grinder can clean em up some, BFD.
Funny thing is it's 100 times easier and cleaner to weld 1/4" stuff than is 16ga.

Thanks for the tip on the etching primer.

Next on the list and soon to see:
Body panel work
Rear fender well repair (roll bar)
Cut out the quarter panel supports (roll bar frame tie in)
Sandblast one more time
Metal body filler
Sand
Fill
Sand
Rinse and repeat.
Lil bit of Por 15 as neaded
Prime as needed

I want to get the tub on the frame before Sept and start the cage work. (We’ll see)

Probually around Oct, Nov I should be able to:
Shoot color
Shoot Herculiner

Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions.

[ssdalton]

I've been contemplating this same project for a while on my '78 and have recently purchased a welder. I'm glad you've posted this - It will definately help me when I get started

Shaun

[TetanusCJ7]

Fatman...nice work man. What are the dimensions that you built that wooden frame for your tub? Looks perfect for the job! I get my new tub (old tub) Saturday so I need to build a similiar frame by Friday night. Keep pushing on with the good work!

[Fatman]

Tet,
Thanks, but don't ya want to kick my dog since my welds aren't pretty?

I used (2) 6' 4x4's and (1) 10' 4x4 cut in half and an 8' 2x4 for a diag brace.
5'-0" wide 6'-0" long.
It's worked out well, might add some legs when I go to spray color on it.

[fatterman]

i have seen you do better welds. all you need is a beer and the welds look clean

[TetanusCJ7]

Ha ha! Nay, I won't kick your dog! Looks good to me, but I cheated and took the easy way out with a YJ tub so I am not a good source to comment. Thanks for the dimensions. Don't let em get you down!

[BESRK]

You should have seen me when I did my floorpans in the little CJ5.. I was too lazy to swap out the .035" wire for some .023" so it was tack, tack, tack, tack, tack, tack.. for about 2 days.

[Wolverine222W]

sorry that i haven't been on for a while. the thing is that i know what im talking about because i am a welder. that is what i do for a living and i am always working with could galvanizing. i work with it alot, so i can tell you that im not just blowing smoke when im telling you about contamination. im not trying to beat you over the head about your welds but what im telling you is true.

the thing is your welds probably will be ok, yes, but they have contamination in them. also they aren't the stongest. another thing is with some practice you can use arc welding to weld sheet metal, even if it is 16 ga. yes it is alittle harder but it is possible. further more i not trying to be mean but why are you useing 16 ga to repair something. usually you would use 12 ga to do a repair. like i said im not trying to be mean or anything but i do know what im talking about, i mean welding is what i do for a living.