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Unread 06-07-2010, 11:10 AM   #76
yellow85cj
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How do you know what the cyl wall temp is?

And how do you know what a "good" operating temp is?

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Unread 06-07-2010, 04:31 PM   #77
Pacfanweb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
How do you know what the cyl wall temp is?

And how do you know what a "good" operating temp is?
1. You don't, exactly, but what you DO know is, if the coolant temp is 180 or so, you can bet the cylinder wall temp is a good bit more, since that's where the heat is. What you also know is, with an .060" overbore on a 350, those walls are a lot thinner than your typical SBC.....so the heat's coming through them faster.

2. It's a Small Block Chevrolet. If you've been around them long enough, you know these things. It's not rocket science. I think pretty much anyone would be happy with 180-185* on Fatman's combo.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 03:15 PM   #78
Fatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow85cj View Post
How do you know what the cyl wall temp is?
based on the coolant temps and heat loss range, that's what it calc's out.
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Unread 06-08-2010, 11:03 PM   #79
nedmoore
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Fatman, what fan did you put in? Can you post some pics?
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Unread 06-09-2010, 09:43 AM   #80
Fatman
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Originally Posted by nedmoore View Post
Fatman, what fan did you put in? Can you post some pics?
Did you see post #31 ?
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Unread 10-14-2010, 11:34 PM   #81
ArrizX
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incredible, I hope to build and do this to a CJ some day.
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Unread 10-15-2010, 09:58 AM   #82
LT1CJ7
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Nice work, But why didn't you opted for a forged arm ?
And maybe some H-beams.
Or at least some floaters instead of the pressed.
Just a typo correction on your 0100 block, It should be 0010.
The 3970010 was used from 1968 - 1970 IIRC.
I figure I'd point that out for other followers.
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Unread 10-15-2010, 10:19 AM   #83
Fatman
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Originally Posted by LT1CJ7 View Post
Nice work, But why didn't you opted for a forged arm ?
And maybe some H-beams.
Or at least some floaters instead of the pressed.
Cost mainly.
I had considered going to a GM671 up top in which case I'd have done a forged crank. Never been a big fan of H beam con rods, my stocks were balanced and well within spec.
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Unread 02-17-2011, 09:09 PM   #84
ms198
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hi, i am planning to do the same swap into a cj. i have a few questions.

1) cams. i want to do a solid roller cam. i plan on porting the heads and buying new springs for them that will work with the cam. i don't know a whole lot about them. scooter402 helped quite a bit but i am still unsure as to what to look for.

2) i changed my mind on which intake to use. i decided that and rpm air gap will probably work better. is this a good choice or would something else work better?

3) what do i need to do about a radiator. can i pull one from a junkyard(provided it has no leaks)? if not, what is a good brand for them?

4)what kind of paint did you use on your block? it looks awesome and is just what i was wanting to do.



btw your jeep looks awesome. yours and scooter402's jeeps are my two favorite jeeps on here, not that other people don't have VERY nice jeeps, i just like the whole process of building an engine.

Thanks!
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Unread 02-18-2011, 06:05 AM   #85
AFRd_CJ5
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ms198,
Cam.......if you're going solid roller, I would highly recommend calling the cam manufacturer of your choice and have them custom grind a cam for your engine. Cam manufacturers usually charge little (if any) more for a custom ground than an off the shelf, and you will be much happier with a custom.
Intake....hard to say without knowing the rest of your combo?
Radiator.....if you plan on doing a little fab work to get a decent radiator in, I'd get new. Just because a radiator doesn't leak at a junkyard, doesn't mean it's any good. A few of us run Jegs (though Summit and most other manufacturers have them too) universal radiators. For about $160 and a little fab work, you'll have a radiator that is capable of keeping most any setup cool.
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Unread 02-18-2011, 07:30 AM   #86
Fatman
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MS, not sure what your plans are for the Jeep, but unless you are wanting to run it down the strip. I'd say you need to change a few things. Starting w the cam, unless you want to spend the time adjusting valve lash every other week, go with hydro tappets and forget about it. If you are concerned with collapse issues, put in a set of limiters and you have the best of both.
You're going to want a motor that is reliable and low maintenance. Select a cam that will operate in the low to mid range. For wheeling, you want a torque motor first, if you bring HP into the mix good, but build for low end torque. You're not going to be doing 7000 RPM digs or hill climbs are you ?

As for porting, are you doing this or are you having a pro do the porting ? Owning a dremil does not make a porter, carving for the sake of carving is a disaster. There are formulas that go into flow dynamics and I leave this work to the pros.

Glad to see you are staying away from that Torquer or Victor. Stick with a dual plane and if you are having the heads ported, take the intake along for the ride. Air Gap is a good all around choice.

Radiators, get a conversion radiator. Look for a 4 core copper or a high end horizontal flow aluminum. Plan on about $400 minimum. Don't go cheep here, and run a good electric fan.

Paint was high temp engine paint, nothing exotic, just what was on the shelf at my machine shop.

Once you have the motor you plan on using, break it down to a short block and carry it to your machine shop with the pistons, rods and crank still in place, have the shop do the final break down ($15, in most cases) and have them mic everything. if the parts are in spec good. If parts need to be cut, they will tell you what to order as far as bearing size, piston bore, etc. based on the work needed to be done. ( i like to buy and assemble my own chit) I like to have the shop install my cam bearings and new freeze plugs. once you have an idea of the work needed to be done to the block, crank, & con rods, take up your heads and intake to have the package matched to your cam choice.

Do a little reading, there are some good combos out there that are documented and with a little understanding of the importance of matching parts and flow dynamics, you won't be stuck with a turd.
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Unread 02-18-2011, 08:36 AM   #87
AFRd_CJ5
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Quote:
As for porting, are you doing this or are you having a pro do the porting ? Owning a dremil does not make a porter, carving for the sake of carving is a disaster
Couldn't agree more.....
Quote:
Starting w the cam, unless you want to spend the time adjusting valve lash every other week, go with hydro tappets and forget about it
But do disagree with this. I know several guys (myself included) that run solid rollers and do not adjust lash often (some even once a season). I've set mine in the spring, checked them various times thoughout the spring/summer/fall, and it's always been good. I've left mine alone for the whole season before, checked them before putting it up, and they were good.
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Unread 02-18-2011, 10:54 AM   #88
Fatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFRd_CJ5 View Post
Couldn't agree more.....
But do disagree with this. I know several guys (myself included) that run solid rollers and do not adjust lash often (some even once a season). I've set mine in the spring, checked them various times thoughout the spring/summer/fall, and it's always been good. I've left mine alone for the whole season before, checked them before putting it up, and they were good.
I've run them as well in SBC's, & BBC's, but those applications were all strip cars or weekend cruisers. By your own admission, you're checking them often, they may not always need adjustment, but they are not a leave it and drive it setup. They have their place, but i don't see it in a DD or an off road veh that requires maintenance in more important areas to keep it's "off road worthiness". Not looking to argue, but when I read statements like the following, ... my advice for the novice builder would be keep it simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ms198 View Post
1) cams. i want to do a solid roller cam. i plan on porting the heads and buying new springs for them that will work with the cam. i don't know a whole lot about them. scooter402 helped quite a bit but i am still unsure as to what to look for.
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Unread 02-18-2011, 11:36 AM   #89
ms198
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i plan on doing mostly mud racing, but a little bit of street driving now and then just for fun.

i will be having the guy selling the engine to me porting the heads for me. i might help just so i can learn how.

the roller cam was more like a wish. i realized how much more goes into a solid roller cam. i think i will go with a mechanical or hydraulic cam.
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Unread 02-18-2011, 11:41 AM   #90
AFRd_CJ5
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Correct, I have in the past checked lash throughout the season. Based on prior experience, the last 2 years I have not checked lash the whole season until I put it away, and they were just as I set them in the spring. I street drive, sand dunes, and sand drag mine throughout the year.
But, you are also correct that this may not be the best setup for a novice.
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