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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 05-15-2010, 04:35 PM   #61
243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
Well she runs ! STRONG !

I call ********...it ain't true 'til you post pictures roasting the tires...ALL FOUR!




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Unread 05-15-2010, 11:46 PM   #62
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Holy Crap, that's beautiful!
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 05-16-2010, 06:33 AM   #63
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Wait a minute... you stopped working because you broke a finger?... you didn't even cut it off or anything?

Hope the hand is feeling better. I hate working with smashed/broken fingers..

Engine looks great!! We need videos with sound so we can crank up the volume!!!
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Unread 06-01-2010, 02:01 PM   #64
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Fatman, any progress? I imagine you have run it by now? Let's see some final pics and/or a video!!
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Unread 06-01-2010, 03:15 PM   #65
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^^^ looks like BESRK could use a few less fingers
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Unread 06-01-2010, 06:55 PM   #66
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^^^ looks like BESRK could use a few less fingers
Hehe... not sure what happened there.. I just went back and deleted the duplicate post. Thought I got it before anybody noticed... dang!
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Unread 06-02-2010, 08:12 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southshore30 View Post
Fatman, any progress? I imagine you have run it by now? Let's see some final pics and/or a video!!
Thanks guys, the Jeep is running great, I have not had much time to drive it and only have 100 miles on it since finishing the 350.
Had to finish up the phase 2 of the cage and get the seats mounted.

Really impressed with the combination on this motor, the Edelbrock heads really bring this thing to life and the torque off this cam is brutal. First gear with the 6.32:1 I can DC this thing and bounce the front tires in the air. Makes me nervous about putting it back into the kids hands.

MSD is sending me a new 6A to replace the one that lasted 20 minutes. Not sure I even want to run it, had no idea the piece of chit was so sensitive. If I can return it to Summit, it's outta here.


Here's the new specs:
69 Vette 0010 cast 4 bolt main SBC 350 .060 over 361ci
Speed Pro Hypereutectic flat top pistons
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Hydraulic flat tappet cam, Grind: CS X4 262H-11, 262/270, Lift .462/.480
Edelbrock 60999 Performer RPM heads, 64cc chambers, angle plugs, 185cc intake runners
Edelbrock 7501 Performer RPM Air Gap dual plane intake
Holley Truck Avenger carburetor, 670 cfm
2 piece balanced steal crankshaft 3.480 stroke
Stock 5.700 connecting rods
Full roller 1.5 rockers
Gear drives
MSD HEI dizzy & MSD Blaster coil
Melling High-Volume Oil Pump
Milodon High-Volume water pump - short
Headman Headers, Elite, Shorties, Thermal Coated
Flowmaster 2.25 mufflers, 40 Series
Magnaflow 2.25 Stainless CATs

Four core copper radiator, w 160* T-stat
Ford Taurus electric cooling fan 4000 CFM
T-18a 6.32:1 / D300 / Scout II D-44 3.73 rear

I'll try and get some pics shot soon, Camera no longer records sound in movie mode, so I'll have to be buying another one soon.

Thanks again for following along.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 09:13 AM   #68
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Fatman,

No EFI on this one?
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Unread 06-02-2010, 11:33 AM   #69
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Fatman,
No EFI on this one?
Strictly old school !
Didn't want another computer

Jeremy, How's that TBI treating ya ? Bet you have a blast wheeling out west.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 03:32 PM   #70
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Strictly old school !
Didn't want another computer

Jeremy, How's that TBI treating ya ? Bet you have a blast wheeling out west.
Can't complain too much about the TBI. I do get some hesitation when the engine is cold, but when I hijacked someone elses thread, you explained to me about the o2 sensor not being warm enough within the first couple of minutes of the engine running, which makes perfect sense. After the engine is warm, I really cant complain too much about the Howell kit. I know lots of people dont like it that much and the price is steep. If I had more time and know-how, I probably would have done the junkyard TBI swap. If I really had thought about it, I think I would have put in a 350 instead of spending $1200 on the TBI. Oh well

As for wheeling... I think I have gone out once or twice since I moved out here to Tucson back in October. Just been busy settleing in to the new house. You know, the work never ends. Constantly painting some room, or putting in ceiling fans, or something else the wife makes me do. On top of that, I have a 4 year old daughter and a 2 year old son who take up most of my time. Cant wait for them to get a little bigger so I can take them out in the desert. Lastly, summer is basically here now and this is not the best place to do summer wheeling.

Long story short... the jeep sits next to the fastback in the garage and neither of them get much use these days. Hopefully will be able to use her much more in the next few months after it cools down a bit. I do have air conditioning, but the soft top just dosent keep the inside cool enough when its 110 degrees.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 04:12 PM   #71
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Why such a cold thermostat? I would have went for a 195 or 180.
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Unread 06-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #72
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Why such a cold thermostat? I would have went for a 195 or 180.
Really ?
I'm dying to hear the reasoning for running a 195* T stat on a .060 over motor ...
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Unread 06-04-2010, 03:06 PM   #73
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Fatman,

Have you noticed any problems with cooling that beast with an electric fan?

Shawn

Btw, I ran the numbers on my Engine Analyzer and you should have a very good shot at 400hp.
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Unread 06-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #74
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Really ?
I'm dying to hear the reasoning for running a 195* T stat on a .060 over motor ...
Remember that a thermostat is only controlling the minimum temperature. From that point on either your cooling system can keep up or it can't. Doesn't matter the engine size or if it is bored over or not.

Most engines are designed to run around the factory spec 180-195 degrees. Fuel atomization, spark advance and oil viscosity are all factors related to a normal operating base engine temp. New cars can adjust for these factors on the fly, obviously yours (ours) doesn't.

I guess my question would be, if the engineers who built it wanted ~195* operating temp what makes running it 30* cooler better?

Granted if you have a vehicle that is prone to running hot then lowering the thermostat will get the coolant flowing through the radiator sooner. It sounds like that will not be a problem for you though. I would run a 180* if I had your set up.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:31 AM   #75
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I guess my question would be, if the engineers who built it wanted ~195* operating temp what makes running it 30* cooler better?

Granted if you have a vehicle that is prone to running hot then lowering the thermostat will get the coolant flowing through the radiator sooner. It sounds like that will not be a problem for you though. I would run a 180* if I had your set up.
Lets talk about coolant temps, not motor temps.
Motor temps, like you said are controlled by wear, spk adv, oil, and fuel, design of engine compartment, etc.

The thing to remember is that the T stat has nothing to do with how cool you can keep the motor, is can only have an effect on the coolant temps (effect, not control)
You need to give the coolant that opportunity to run in a range. It starts by allowing the flow of coolant through the radiator, in my case that process starts at 160*. You can't have operating temps of 180 - 185* in a motor if your opening up the T stat at 180 and especially not 195*
You guys that think its OK to run an overbore in the 220- 230* range are asking for trouble. If you're Lucky you'll just blow a H gasket, if not you'll distort the cylinder walls and then be Lucky if you see 10,000 miles on your build.

This isn't my first high HP motor, in the 70's & 80's I was big into Chevy iron and have done my share of 327's & 350 mouse motors, never had a single issue with any. Keys I stick by are proper cam break in and keeping things cool. Back then I didn't have electric fans to stick in the Camaro's and Chevelle's I had so it was a chore to move air.

I like the predictability of a copper radiator and an electronically controlled fan.
This Taurus fan MOVES air.

So, where are we at here ?
My fan kicks on at 160, my T stat opens at 160, and with over 400HP on this over bore, it sees that 160* very quickly.

90* day yesterday and I was in construction crawl traffic for about 20 min - Consistent temps @ 180 - 185*
Running down the highway @ 65 - 70 - Consistent temps @ 180 - 185*
Driving around town, stop and go - temps @ 180 - 185*

This means the system as a whole is working well together.
it also means the cyl walls are close to 198 - 213* this motor will live a long time under those conditions.
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