Project: SBC 350 - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 103 Old 04-21-2010, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
Fatman
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Jeepman, got it from a buddy of mine.
It's a Lakewood 15080. Strong and heavy !

Lakewood :: Product Details

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post #47 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
Fatman
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Had time to build the trans crossmember.
Will make a hard tab off the rear brace for a torque stop and directly mount it into the D300.

Have to cut a skid, probably use 1/4" plate and fasten it to tabs

Catalytics and Flowmasters are here and waiting to be installed.
Still need to find a shop to cut my front drive shaft adn re-tube the rear.
Once the exhaust is finished. I can cun the fuel lines.
Few pics:








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post #48 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 06:36 PM
jatepper
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Why wouldnt the old skit plate work?

1986 CJ7 Laredo - Auto 14k miles
1985 CJ7 Renegade - Auto 33k miles
1982 CJ8 Scrambler - T5 T-SPD
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post #49 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 06:45 PM
Coiz
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That tab your transmission mount is attached to would make me a little nervous. Is it that stout or should you add a couple gussets on the ends toward the top of the bar?

Everything is looking great.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #50 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 07:24 PM
lifeisgd
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Looks like you will be back up and running sooner than I will. Have had major issues with "old blue" due to the head gasket issue and finally am breaking down for a complete re-build from top to bottom. For anyone doing a 4.0 head swap on a 4.2 make sure you use a 4.0 head gasket....
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post #51 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 07:30 PM
BESRK
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Looking good Dave!

One thing I did notice... you're using poly bushings both at the ends of your tranny crossmember, and at the TC mount itself.
It may work fine for you but I used a similar setup on my old CJ5 (with a SBC and Turbo 350) and ended up cracking the tranny case because the double poly mounting system (for the tranny/tc) flexed more than the engine mounts (which were also poly bushings like yours). Granted, it cracked the tranny when I landed on the front tires at full throttle after the Jeep "hopped" during a steep climb.

Might want to keep an eye on it.. maybe add a bar to limit torque induced roll... something similar to the stock D300 torque bar.

Of course, you know there's only one sure fire way to check the system right?... it involves floating valves and side stepping the clutch..

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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post #52 of 103 Old 04-28-2010, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
Fatman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
That tab your transmission mount is attached to would make me a little nervous. Is it that stout or should you add a couple gussets on the ends toward the top of the bar?
Everything is looking great.
1/4 inch plate, it's stout.
The 1/4" skid plate will back it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Looking good Dave!
One thing I did notice... you're using poly bushings both at the ends of your tranny crossmember, and at the TC mount itself.
It may work fine for you but I used a similar setup on my old CJ5 (with a SBC and Turbo 350) and ended up cracking the tranny case because the double poly mounting system (for the tranny/tc) flexed more than the engine mounts (which were also poly bushings like yours). Granted, it cracked the tranny when I landed on the front tires at full throttle after the Jeep "hopped" during a steep climb.

Might want to keep an eye on it.. maybe add a bar to limit torque induced roll... something similar to the stock D300 torque bar.
I was looking at controlling torque roll with a 1/4" bracket welded off the rear crossmember and bolted to the back of the shim cover of the front output shaft.
I could always just throw on the stock torque arm and weld in another tab, cool thing is, it'd be covered by the skid plate. ... thoughts ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
Of course, you know there's only one sure fire way to check the system right?... it involves floating valves and side stepping the clutch..
hell yes, that sounds like your cam break-in procedure !
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post #53 of 103 Old 04-30-2010, 05:49 AM
BESRK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
I was looking at controlling torque roll with a 1/4" bracket welded off the rear crossmember and bolted to the back of the shim cover of the front output shaft.
I could always just throw on the stock torque arm and weld in another tab, cool thing is, it'd be covered by the skid plate. ... thoughts ?
I think either method would work for you..

This thread has me pumped! I think I'm gonna roast my back tires this weekend in tribute.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
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post #54 of 103 Old 05-04-2010, 04:53 PM
Stan99
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Man if I didnt enjoy falowing your builds, I would really hate you! Youre gona have this thing rebuilt for a second time before Im done with my first build.

Great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1978 Jeep Cj7 Soa, Shackle Reversle, 36x13.5x15 Irocks, 4.5 Stroker MPI, Dana 300 twin Sticked, 4.88's
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post #55 of 103 Old 05-04-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
Fatman
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Thanks Stan, stay the course, you'll be there in no time.

Broke a finger Friday helping a friend work on his dash. Using the tube notcher and the bit hung up, swung the drill around and did a number on my hand.

Was able to finish welding the tabs on the rear cross member and set the skid plate. Can't hardly even hold anything w my right hand. Tried to put a coat of spray down but to painful to push the trigger.
Will make some progress one handed. Trying to get things tightened up so I can take it up to the exhaust shop.

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post #56 of 103 Old 05-04-2010, 09:26 PM
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Looks really clean. Very nice work.

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post #57 of 103 Old 05-10-2010, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Coiz, you'll be glad to know I beefed up the bracket ! Good advice,










Got my Flowmasters finished, put Magnaflo CATs in front of them. Guys at Bob's did a great job.



Finished up the fuel system last night, Check valve to filter to Holley blue to Holley FPR.









Need to add fluids, prime the oil pump, set the dizzy and she's ready to run.

Still looking for a good driveshaft in the 24 - 27" field.

Last edited by Fatman; 05-10-2010 at 01:56 PM.
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post #58 of 103 Old 05-10-2010, 01:40 PM
swatson454
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That's a pretty slick throttle linkage set-up.

Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #59 of 103 Old 05-15-2010, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well she runs ! STRONG !
Did the start up Thursday night, ran it for 20 min @ 2300 to break in the cam, got the timing set and everything checked out great.

Shut it down and came back to it 30 min later, would not start ? Quick trouble shoot and i determine it's the MSD ignition box. So I pull the box and wire the coil to ignition, she fires back to life. Trigger testing of the box reviles the box is dead. WT*, 20 min on the box just pisses me off. Got a RMA # from MSD on Friday so back it goes. Runs perfect in HEI mode w/o the ignition so I'm debating if the 6A goes back in when returned.

Got the replacement DS in:


Mount brackets for the check valve and fuel filter:


I shot some video of the start up, unfortunately the sound is not being picked up on the camera.
Pulled the Ign box:
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post #60 of 103 Old 05-15-2010, 04:05 PM
Coiz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman View Post
Coiz, you'll be glad to know I beefed up the bracket ! Good advice,
Good call! That looks exactly like what I was picturing. That's just a whole lot of weight and torque sitting on that tab to just be hanging out there like that.

Everything looks outstanding as usual. I'll bet that thing is a hoot to drive.

Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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350 , horse power , over kill , sbc , small block chevy

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