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Unread 12-04-2013, 07:45 AM   #16
kbarwall
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got a ton of work done on the frame the past couple of nights. I didn't get as much work done as I had planned last week but this week i got the frame down to bare metal, replaced the rear cross-member. I am planning on POR15'ing the frame with a semi-gloss top coat over the next couple of days while it is relatively warm here (60's). I will get pictures when I am finished. I am doing from the first body mount back as I haven't had the means of pulling the engine right now. waiting for my dad to get some time to help me bring the hoist and stand over to the new digs.

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Unread 12-04-2013, 07:46 AM   #17
kbarwall
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for those of you that replaced your existing lines with stainless, what is the difference in the flange/flair if any?
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Unread 12-04-2013, 08:11 AM   #18
Blakescj7
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im envious of your sanitary garage space and that millermatic and blast cabinet
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Unread 12-04-2013, 08:55 AM   #19
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarwall View Post
for those of you that replaced your existing lines with stainless, what is the difference in the flange/flair if any?
Are you asking because you are going to make your own and you are wondering if you can use a single vs double flair because you are going to stainless?

I just bought a finished set and didn't worry about it. I had enough trouble making double flairs on soft steel tube I wasn't going to fight stainless tubing.

I got a SS set from 4WD harware and it was a perfect fit. Not a single change was needed.
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Unread 12-04-2013, 11:46 AM   #20
Cutlass327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post

Are you asking because you are going to make your own and you are wondering if you can use a single vs double flair because you are going to stainless?

I just bought a finished set and didn't worry about it. I had enough trouble making double flairs on soft steel tube I wasn't going to fight stainless tubing.

I got a SS set from 4WD harware and it was a perfect fit. Not a single change was needed.
I recommend this route too, as it is what I did. I also liked that they had that wire wrapping around them to protect them.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 12-04-2013, 09:27 PM   #21
kbarwall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk
Are you asking because you are going to make your own and you are wondering if you can use a single vs double flair because you are going to stainless? I just bought a finished set and didn't worry about it. I had enough trouble making double flairs on soft steel tube I wasn't going to fight stainless tubing. I got a SS set from 4WD harware and it was a perfect fit. Not a single change was needed.
Yea sorry I should have provided more information. I have a line bender/cutter and flanging set for brake lines/ fuel lines... I have built my own before but just normal steel brake lines and so I was curious what is different. Secondly I am doing this on a pretty tight budget and if it saves me a good chunk of change I don't mind spending the time to do it my self.

How much was the kit?

Lastly; here is a update pic. Rear cross member welded in place and 1st coat of por15 done. Second will be done tomorrow after work followed by the topcoat, once the por15 base is dry of course. The. I will likely stall out on jeep progress for the weekend, I need to finish yard/house work and complete my finals for the semester.

I am going to be honest my OCD is kicking in hard core right now, I really want to clean and scrub the floor of the garage after all of the grinding and taking the frame to bare metal. A good dusting would be desired as well...
image-1521562137.jpg

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Unread 12-04-2013, 09:41 PM   #22
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarwall View Post
Yea sorry I should have provided more information. I have a line bender/cutter and flanging set for brake lines/ fuel lines... I have built my own before but just normal steel brake lines and so I was curious what is different. Secondly I am doing this on a pretty tight budget and if it saves me a good chunk of change I don't mind spending the time to do it my self.

How much was the kit?

....
The Stainless is MUCH harder to bend and form.

I paid $150 but they are up to $170

4WD only has the NON power brake version.

Quadratec has both

http://www.quadratec.com/products/22705_07D.htm

They are made by Classic Tube.
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Unread 12-04-2013, 09:49 PM   #23
John Strenk
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Woah
Arn't you missing a cross member?






Only kidding, that extra cross member was deleted in the 80's sometime i Think
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Unread 12-05-2013, 07:02 AM   #24
kbarwall
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AHHH you had me scared for a minute! I was pretty sure, the frame hadnt been modified lol.

I will likely go the manufactured line route, so thanks for that input.

On a side note, the blast cabinet is new to me. I took it in trade along with some firearms for a YJ from my Dad. Long story short, the compressor my dad has is a monstrosity, many times larger than mine. Ultimatly I dont have the money to upgrade air compressors so I am supplying the correct amount of airflow. My questions is, what can i do to better flow into the blast cabinet. Can I replace the regulator and componants from the plug on the tank to the quick disconnect and change all to 3/8" dia.? I changed my current line from 1/4" to 3/8", but I believe the bottle neck is in the regulator and supporting fittings being 1/4". This wont allow the hose to fill quicly. I did create a very short house, roughly 2 ft to try and help out....no such luck.
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Unread 12-05-2013, 09:21 AM   #25
John Strenk
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It makes sense.
Use the largest ID hose or pipe you can. smaller ID -> bigger pressure drop.
If your regulator is only 1/4" that's probably your biggest restriction. Adding larger ID plumbing after the regulator won't help any.

Regulators have CFM ratings also. these are 100CFM 1/2"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Pressure-R.../dp/B00275AF42

and 220 CFM 1/2"
http://www.dultmeier.com/products/0.2.5123/8872

Not at a bad price either but you would still need a water separator.


I would move the regulator as close to the box as You can. Keep Small ID hoses as short as you can.
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Unread 12-05-2013, 08:04 PM   #26
Cutlass327
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Maybe find a yard sale compressor and plumb it in with the other.. if you can acquire a larger air tank it would help a lot too. Don't need to have a compressor on the larger tank, it will just help with volume of available air.
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1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 12-05-2013, 10:30 PM   #27
kbarwall
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Cutlass/John, does that stainless steel brake line kit include all brake lines including the ones on the axles themselves and the lines going from proportioning valve to the master/booster? At least on quadratec it does not say what the contents of the kit are.

Also, is it advised to get stainless fuel lines at the same time?


Coat two is done and drying, I think I am going to apply one more por15 coat before apply the semi-gloss. Any pointers for cleaning up the stock lead springs? Should I take the leaf packs apart to clean and paint? These spring packs will likely be used for my SOA I plan to do next winter.

Regards,
Kevin
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Unread 12-06-2013, 01:00 AM   #28
BagusJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarwall View Post
I did have one question in regards to redoing the springs. There is only surface rust, in other words no structural damage do to rust on the stock leaf springs. Due to fund over the holidays I decided I would just take apart the springs, sandblast, get the powder-coated and re-assemble. Is powder-caoting the prefered method or would paint suffice. Long term I plan to use these spring in my SOA unless I have the funds to switch over to YJ springs. After doing a search it seems that most just wire-wheel the spring leafs, paint and reassemble.
Sandblast and powder coating would not be ideal spending of your money, the springs rub against each other in the pack. They would look nice on the outside if you go under the Jeep but serve no other function.

Save your money for the new parts you need in the pack and wire wheel them and chassis paint.

Before you take them apart measure the arch height on the workbench. If they have flattened it is possible for a specialist to carefully put them through a bench press and bend them back to spec. Cheaper than replacing.
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Unread 12-06-2013, 11:45 PM   #29
Cutlass327
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The kit comes with everything - the ones on the axle to the ones to the MC.
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Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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Unread 12-09-2013, 06:48 AM   #30
kbarwall
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Ok, not a whole lot done this weekend, I completed some more house work. I now have a new workshop in the basement for my guns and such! I was able to get the rear axle wirebrushed down to bare metal and primed. I am hoping to finish painting it tonight and move onto the springs. Any pointers on replacing the main Eye bushing in my factory leafs? They are all dry rotted...so I got replacements. Per typical rubber bushing sets I am sure these will be a bear to remove. I have the torches and press ready but want to know if there are any slick tricks to remove them.

On a side note, to save money I just ordered up some steel brake line and fuel line. When I added up the cost of running all pre-bent stainless line, well I was around 500 bucks (all lines on the jeep, both fuel and brakes). So I decided, since this jeep wont see daylight in the winter time for here on out, Ill be fine with the regular steel. I also went with the will wood adjustable proportioning valve. I am hoping that will all be here by Wednesday and I can start plumbing.
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