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New Vendor - ARTEC Industries Battery MountsDana 30 Truss for your TJ, LJ, ZJ, and XJIntroducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 04-27-2008, 09:18 PM   #31
trailridin4x4x4
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
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that frame was hammered **** looks great now keep it up

-------------------------------------
81 cj7 4.0 t5/dana300 35 inch mtr's

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Unread 04-28-2008, 07:26 AM   #32
fatterman
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what if you only tied in behind the seats, left the front mounted to the floor, but reinforced it with 3/16.
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Unread 04-28-2008, 03:00 PM   #33
tsujeeper
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I had also thought about that. That is actually got me thinking 'Do I really need to tie-in?'
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Unread 12-28-2008, 09:16 AM   #34
Jmaas
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It's going to be WWWWIIIIIIDDDDDEEEEEEE!
[/QUOTE]


Interested in how this turned out with "the wide axles". I have a front axle from a 77 cherokee that looks like the same axle as yours (~65" WMS to WMS and 31.5" spring perch spacing". I didn't take the back 44 out of the same truck because the pumpkin was offset to the passenger side also. What rear are you using (year/model)? I am a little bit worried about how far the wheels stick out since I want to drive this on the street also. Any pics with your final wheels on it?
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1979 CJ7 (Frame up restoration began 11/29/08)
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=640992[/url]\
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Unread 12-29-2008, 11:44 AM   #35
tsujeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmaas View Post
It's going to be WWWWIIIIIIDDDDDEEEEEEE!

Interested in how this turned out with "the wide axles". I have a front axle from a 77 cherokee that looks like the same axle as yours (~65" WMS to WMS and 31.5" spring perch spacing". I didn't take the back 44 out of the same truck because the pumpkin was offset to the passenger side also. What rear are you using (year/model)? I am a little bit worried about how far the wheels stick out since I want to drive this on the street also. Any pics with your final wheels on it?[/QUOTE]

I was just getting ready to dig this thread out of the archives and do some updating when I get some work done this week. I'm a college student and really haven't worked on it much since the last posts since it's at my parents house and I'm rarely there. I hope to get some work done on it in the next two weeks.

The axles are full width 3/4 ton Chevy axles. Dana 44 in the front, 14 bolt full-floater in the rear with discs all around. If you'd really like to know the year let me know and I'll dig through some old emails from the guy I bought them off of. As far as pics go those are the actual rims and they are tight to the hub in that shot. Hope that gives you an idea. I've got 37x12.5 tires to go on those rims but haven't had them mounted yet. Let me know if you've got any more questions about the swap.
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Unread 12-29-2008, 12:22 PM   #36
Jmaas
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Yea hurry up and finish it so I can see it with the full width axles!!! lol.

I have a full width Dana 44 (about 65") for the front and a wide track dana 44(about 58") for the rear. Can't figure out if I Want to cut down the front or get a longer rear. Looking for someone like you that went really wide.... was also looking at using the blue torch setup since then I wouldn't need to touch the front axle.

I'll be lookng for updates.....
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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=640992[/url]\
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Unread 12-29-2008, 08:22 PM   #37
gojeepgo
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For your frame tie-ins I would ditch those headers. Get the shorty Edelbrock headers that run inside the frame. That would free up the space on the outside of it for your tie-ins. Also by keeping the headers & exhuast inside the frame you dont have to worry about bashing them on the rocks if thats the type of wheeling you do.
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Unread 12-30-2008, 08:12 AM   #38
molsenice
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another killer build thread - can't believe I missed it on the first go round but will be watching for updates

oh - just my personal opinion - that "coors light" is not the most efficent tool for the job

MOLSEON ICE is WAAAYYYYY easier on the bladder
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Unread 12-30-2008, 08:16 AM   #39
certifiablejeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsujeeper View Post
These pics are still kind of blurry, I'll have to mess with my camera some more. It's really sensitive to shaky hands.
Just a note here, I had a terrible time with pictures being blurry in the past... and oddly enough, when I took the time to take a picture and let the flash warm up, it came out great, without the flash, which is what I thought was easier, always was blurry.

I have a new camera now that the flash goes off each and every time and it really comes out nice.

Figured I would pass that along and see if you try it one way vs. th eother. I always used to take 2 pics, one with and one without and would compare... it was easy to see what was good and what wasn't. With 2 pics, it was always good to have an option for another one if the first one was bad. That is the beauty of digitals cams...

cb
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Unread 03-01-2009, 06:00 PM   #40
tsujeeper
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I got some time to work on it this weekend. I've stripped it back down to the frame. I'm getting ready to turn the corner from dirty rusty crap to clean painted parts!

I put the frame on some sawhorses and went to with aircraft stripper, wire brush, scrapper, and the angle grinder with a knob brush attached. I forgot to take 'after' pics but just imagine the same frame with a little less rust and all the paint gone and laying on the drop cloth. haha Next time I work on it I'll be applying Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to the frame! See my post about this in the forum if you don't mind.

Anywhere here is my frame. The 'bat wings' are for the cage frame tie-ins.



A close-up of the 'paint' I later removed.


Next time I upload pictures I'll hopefully have a painted and pretty frame! I CANNOT wait to turn that corner!
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Unread 03-14-2009, 10:10 AM   #41
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Spring Break!

Well this week is Spring Break. Most kids choose boozin' on the beach. I chose to take the whole week to work on the Jeep.

Got the frame all cleaned up with aircraft stripper, elbow grease, and a pressure washer. Then I went to work making my front hitch receiver. It took a lot longer than I had hoped but I think it turned out alright. I took these pictures after coating most of it with Rust Encapsulator so the timeline might be a little confusing. The welds are ugly b/c it was just about impossible to get the right angle with the MIG gun to weld. Oh well, let me know what you think.










So after I got that done I wiped it all down with prep-sol and sprayed it with a few coats of rust converter I found at Autozone. It was much cheaper than the Eastwood stuff and turned out alright. Then I set up my "paint booth" which is pretty much just to make it easier to heat my painting area. I coated it with two generous coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. This morning I turned the frame over and started working on the underside areas I couldn't get to last night. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the progress. Here are some pictures.





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Unread 03-14-2009, 10:11 AM   #42
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Here are all the products I've used or am going to use to coat it.











Well that's it for now. Later today I'm going to apply the semi-gloss topcoat. We'll see how far I can get in a week working on it about 16hrs a day!
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Unread 03-14-2009, 10:19 AM   #43
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It wouldn't take much to turn that 4.0L high output sticker into a 401 High Output!!
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Unread 03-14-2009, 10:27 AM   #44
Coiz
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Your rear frame tie-ins look interesting but simple and effective. I am assuming that is just 2" channel? I just installed my front tie-in from MORE and fabed up my own design for the middle points which uses some rubber to insulate between the frame mounted section and the part that attaches to the body. I was going to leave the rears alone but might look into something like you have on yours. I am assuming you had to cut out the inner corner supports on the body to make those fit. Do you plan on doing anything with those or just leave them out?

Looking good.
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Unread 03-14-2009, 03:21 PM   #45
tsujeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
Your rear frame tie-ins look interesting but simple and effective. I am assuming that is just 2" channel? I just installed my front tie-in from MORE and fabed up my own design for the middle points which uses some rubber to insulate between the frame mounted section and the part that attaches to the body. I was going to leave the rears alone but might look into something like you have on yours. I am assuming you had to cut out the inner corner supports on the body to make those fit. Do you plan on doing anything with those or just leave them out?

Looking good.

It's 2" square tube. 1/4" wall. Wayyyy overkill but it was what I had laying around. Yes, I had to cut out inner corner supports. Not really too worried about them. I'm going to be trimming for TJ flares anyway.
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