Problems Installing Transmission Output Shaft Seal - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
Sherms-CJ7
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Problems Installing Transmission Output Shaft Seal

Hey guys!

It's been awhile ... again. Restoration progress is real slow, but, there has been progress.

I've installed a new transfer case input shaft and now ... I'm trying to install a new tranny output shaft seal and new t-case input shaft seal. As far as the tranny, I got the seal installed, but the job was a real PIA as the transmission is already mounted to the engine, so the output shaft itself was getting in the way of using a seal driver. I tried using a drift, but no sooner would I hammer on one side, than the other side would come out. Now, this is sad ... I even had my wife come out and we both tried to hammer drifts on opposing sides at the same time ... yeah, that didn't work out so well. Anyway, I finally found a pipe that seemed to fit ... and the seal still went in on an angle and got jammed in there real good. Maybe I shouldn't have put silicone around the outside of the seal ... In a previous posting, Fredrok mentions that he installs his seal dry and he never had a problem, but ... that was months ago and I didn't see it in time ... (again)

When we got it out, I could see that the metal part of the seal had warped somewhat. We finally got it to go in using the pipe, but ... since it had warped ... is it going to leak? I'm actually headed up to Pep boys to pick up front wheel grease seals, so I'm tempted to buy another output shaft seal. However, I'm thinking that the seal might have, more or less, straigtened out once we got it to go in ... especially if I got it in there enough to bottom out. What do you think?

dsc03920.jpg

dsc03918.jpg

output_seal_small.jpg output_seal_small_2.jpg

As always, any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!




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post #2 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 10:20 AM
jeepdaddy2000
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Without a picture, it is hard to help you. My recommendation is, If you even think it will leak, replace it now. If you install everything and it drips, you'll not be able to drink enough beer to make it better. You may want to take the new seal to the local hardware store and see if you can find a piece of PCV pipe to use a seal driver.
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Sherms-CJ7
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Hey Jeepdaddy! I just finished uploading pictures when I saw your post ...

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too ... but, it was so ridiculously hard to get the seal installed, that I was nervous about having the same problem with the next one.

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post #4 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 10:42 AM
baldfatdad
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I had the same problem with my T-case front output. I sanded the case a little and it went in fine. Coat the shaft with grease to catch any stuff from sanding.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-18-2011, 08:56 PM
jeepdaddy2000
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Well, I hate to say it, but the seal looks OK to me. As long as the lip is intact and the spring is there, I would probably run it.
[QUOTE]
I had the same problem with my T-case front output. I sanded the case a little and it went in fine. Coat the shaft with grease to catch any stuff from sanding.
[QUOTE]
Personally, I would never sand to help a seal fit unless there was corrosion on the casing surface that needed to be removed.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
Sherms-CJ7
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Thanks very much Jeepdaddy!

Not sure what to do yet ... I was thinking I would run it, but a gear-head friend of mine advised that I should change it since it's only a $10 part. If I decide to install another one, then I won't be applying silicone as I did on this one. That should help to get it to go easier. Yeah, I'm not comfortable with the sanding idea.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply - I really value your input!

Best -
John

...... ___
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.L---L-OlllllllO-
()_)-()_)-o-)_)

... can't take credit for the graphic ... but it's cool, ain't it?
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 12:09 PM
80cj
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From the looks of your pics, it looks OK. But if you think it's distorted or ddin't go in right, change it or risk doing the job over again. Remember to oil the seal lips before installing the T/C.
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 03:28 PM
dariopop
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As long as you have it apart replace it , won't be sorry . Sherms cj-7 ,maybe you can help me, I'm trying to find out what size nut holds the universal shaft on. It's the large nut you have to remove to get to the seal. If you could help it would be appreciated , thanks.

My Build. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/al...heavy-1039658/

CJ
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 03:31 PM
chris78cj7
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when in doubt just re-do it... so much easier to say glad i replaced that 10$ seal then dam i wish i replaced that cheap seal and have to take everything apart....
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 07:05 PM
SpringPro
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Sherms,

It looks good to me. If you feel that it bottomed out in the case then I would say it is good to go. I have had several that started on an angle and then went flat when the seal was all the way in the case. I usually put a coat of Permatex 300 around the outside of the seal before I drive it in.
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
Sherms-CJ7
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Hey John!

I was wondering if you'd weigh in Thanks again for the shims - they worked great! Got the end-play down to < .003. I was going to send you something more of a Thank You, but I wanted to get everything installed first ... feeling more than a little stupid that this all took this long!

I had applied a light coat of Silicone to the outer part of the tranny-output seal, but as the tranny was already installed/bolted to the engine ... the output shaft was sort of in the way, and driving the seal in was a major PIA. Now I'm thinking Silicone or Permatex 300 should be used when one can get at the seal with the appropriate seal driver, or something like it. Then again, I've never used Permatex ... maybe that works better?

Sadly, I have one last question ... at least one last question on this topic ... I recently installed new axle seals and had found posts where Jeephammer and others mentioned that you need to apply grease to the rubber of the seals before installation to avoid "dry-start" which would prematurely destroy them. Tonight I installed the T-case input shaft seal. Just before installing, I put a thin coat of Penzoil's Manual Transmission Fluid on the input shaft and a little on the rubber of the seal. Question is - was that enough, or should I have applied a thin coat of grease? I checked some of the manuals, but I didn't see where lubing the rubber of these sorts of seals was called out ... but it sure seems like a good idea.

Can't Thank You enough again!

Best -
John

...... ___
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()_)-()_)-o-)_)

... can't take credit for the graphic ... but it's cool, ain't it?
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post #12 of 12 Old 09-19-2011, 09:53 PM
SpringPro
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John,

I would say that some oil or grease would work. You just don't want it dry. You can take some grease and smear it around the seal if you want to.
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