Pressure plate not lined up - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 32 Old 07-29-2013, 07:22 AM
John Strenk
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post #17 of 32 Old 07-29-2013, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
rsegriggy
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Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Almost sounds like somebody dropped the pressure plate, bent the frame. This might cause problems trying to release the clutch evenly.

I'd take it back.
I put it on the surface plate. There was definitely a bent corner. Flipped it over and saw it was bent on the corner with the hole that didn't line up. Got it pretty straight with a bench vice. I'll see how it fits when I get it home tonight.

Meanwhile, e-mail rock auto about it. We'll see what they say. Pilot bushing has been installed already, I don't really want to remove it to send back the complete kit....
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post #18 of 32 Old 07-29-2013, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rsegriggy View Post

Interesting story, the old pilot bushing came out when I removed the transmission. That doesn't seem right....
It ain't.....
Hope you soaked the pilot bearing in some clean engine oil(overnight is best)before the install. That lubes the bearing and a small cloth patch with a few drops of oil on it pushed inside the bearing after the install works well also.
Hope you drove the p'bear'n in with a socket, so you didn't close the hole for the pilot shaft.
Easy to get the p'bearing out. Fill it with grease, and drive a close fitting rod/shaft into the hole. The grease will hydraulic out the bearing.
LG
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post #19 of 32 Old 07-29-2013, 02:57 PM
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I just replaced a LUK clutch on Saturday with no problems. I'd get a replacement rather than try to fix that one. It's a spinning part and balance comes into play. Sounds like your bushing ran dry and seized fast. Once it's off, clean up the shaft end with some emery cloth to get it smooth again.

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post #20 of 32 Old 07-29-2013, 04:08 PM
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The bolts that hold the Pressure Plate to the Flywheel should be a hex head shoulder bolt type. The shoulder bolts prevent any slop in mounting because the Pressure Plates are a balanced piece and are meant to go on perfectly centered.

Take it back and get another one and do not attempt to drill the holes out to fit it onto the Flywheel. You will surely feel vibration from it being out of balance.

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post #21 of 32 Old 07-31-2013, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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After checking the label, it turns out I made a mistake in memory and didn't get it from Rock Auto. Well, guess there's not much they can do.

After bending the corner back flat, it fit fine on the flywheel. All bolts go in with no undue stress.

I've attached a couple of pictures. One is where the ring gear on the flywheel dug into the bell housing. The other is gouges on the top of the input bearing retainer on the transmission. I can't find any cracks on the bell housing and the bottom edge is straight. I'm not sure how things made contact in there. Any thoughts?
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post #22 of 32 Old 07-31-2013, 10:52 PM
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T/O bearing rub'n on the shaft's 'nose'. Pretty common.
Just clean it up the best you can.
Hope you had the f'wheel resurfaced.
The bottom of your b'housing needs to be straightened. It's been pushed up, and that's why you have the ring gear contact.
LG
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post #23 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 04:39 AM
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You need to either repair or replace the input bearing retainer.
The t/o bearing will eventually begin to catch on the groove and cause clutch dis-engagement issues, or the wear will continue till the front of the cone comes off.
I've seen them both brazed and welded.
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post #24 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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So, why is it wearing? (I know, loaded question that can't really be answered without physically seeing the parts.) I can't find anything cracked on the bell housing. These wear marks seem to indicate the transmission is elevated relative to the engine.

Wait: I had an issue last year or so where the top bolts came out of the bell housing while wheeling. Made for a horrible sound. Replaced bolts and forgot about issue. I bet that's where this grinding has come from.....
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post #25 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 03:57 PM
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The T/O bearing is set'n on the shaft and is still spin'n after you shift and release the clutch. Look at the play in your clutch fork. It's normal.
If it really bothers you. You can turn that shaft 180* and put the bad spot underneath . No guarantee you won't have a tranny leak now........
LG
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post #26 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 04:06 PM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
The T/O bearing is set'n on the shaft and is still spin'n after you shift and release the clutch. Look at the play in your clutch fork. It's normal.
If it really bothers you. You can turn that shaft 180* and put the bad spot underneath . No guarantee you won't have a tranny leak now........
LG
Would that be because the drain back hole would be covered?
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post #27 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 04:17 PM
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Yup!
I've done it, and just drilled a new hole.
Did replace the seal and reset the shaft pre-load.

LG
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post #28 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
rsegriggy
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I'm pretty sure that it was the fingers of the pressure plate that did a number on the retainer. I feel much better now that I remember the missing bolt issue from last year.

Another clutch question: The new throw out bearing came with a grease fitting on the back. I cannot see a good way to grease it once installed. Think I should remove the fitting and block the hole?
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post #29 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 07:35 PM
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AFTER, you grease it
LG
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post #30 of 32 Old 08-01-2013, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
rsegriggy
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Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
AFTER, you grease it
LG
Already greased. I wasn't sure if the grease it came with was just a rust inhibitor or actual lubricant. It looked like the grease the u-joints are shipped with. I used synthetic wheel bearing grease. Does it seem like the right thing or should I have used something else?
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