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post #16 of 26 Old 04-30-2013, 07:32 AM
bkeese
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I bought a cheap undercoating kit from JC Whitney and used it to apply POR15 inside the frame using the wands. I also top coated the exterior of the frame with Plum Crazy Purple about 45 minutes after spaying POR 15. You must do this while the POR 15 is tacky. Now the purple is as tough as the POR 15. Great stuff, except for the UV issue.


1985 CJ7 - total customization underway, Sublime green and Plum crazy purple, Ford 9", 258 w/ Holley 475
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post #17 of 26 Old 04-30-2013, 11:10 AM
Taking2long
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I just used a wire brush wheel on cordless drill. Pressure washed the under neath first with some degreaser. Went crazy with wire wheel, alternating batteries, took a while. Then sprayed entire underneath with it. Brushed on the parts that the gun couldn't get. Used a whole gallon on bottom and top of tub, interior part not exterior. Been 3 years and I am happy.
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-03-2013, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
dustindoughty1
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the cans of por says use the silver first so i got the silver on and ended up falling asleep (at night after i got off of work ) and didn't get the black por on so i think now i have to wet sand knock off the shinny an then go back with the black so we will see how it goes.
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-04-2013, 07:11 AM
Cutlass327
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I think they have a primer or something to use between coats.. I forget, but I think I read it on the can..

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

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post #20 of 26 Old 05-04-2013, 06:17 PM
Renegade82
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Yes, either Tie-Cote which is for a spray gun, or they offer their Self Etching primer in a rattle can.

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post #21 of 26 Old 05-04-2013, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
dustindoughty1
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well the por is on the floor of the jeep and the kit come with some chassis coat to put on top of the por black so its on their to........ i wanted to see if it was going to be tough like everyone says and hit it with a rock on one of the heat shields and it chipped does this mean I'm going to have problems with it later on
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post #22 of 26 Old 05-08-2013, 01:26 AM
Cutlass327
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How long did you let it cure?

Rick

1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
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post #23 of 26 Old 05-08-2013, 09:08 AM
Rollbar
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I let mine sit in the Fla sun for two days. I did not etch or prime between coats-I let sit for 20min (like the bottle reads-if memory serves) and shot the other coat while it was tacky. No peeling etc. Used a red scotch brite pad to ruf the surface, washed, etc etc.
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post #24 of 26 Old 05-08-2013, 10:54 AM
Renegade82
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I believe it says to allow 3-5 hours between coats, until it's "finger drag" dry.
Dustin - how big of a rock did you use? I mean, no paint will be 100% chip proof but this stuff seems to be more chip resistant than most paints or even powder coating.

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post #25 of 26 Old 05-09-2013, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
dustindoughty1
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well i didn't use a big rock a small piece maybe half inch at the biggest.. i guess i was expecting more out of the por than what i got i mean i thought it was going to be pretty hard like powder coating but i guess not i had seen videos on you tube about it... where the painted to pipes and hit them against each other dented one pipe with the other and no chipping so .........
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post #26 of 26 Old 05-09-2013, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
dustindoughty1
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i let cure for 24 or so hours ...... Rick
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