has anyone used this stuff i just ordered some for my jeep and i got to thinking what good is it going to do if you do all under the jeep tub and finders if you cant get inside the supports for the tub???? has anyone done this ? I'm thinking something flexible but firm that i can run in and out with maybe a drill to knock of loose rust chunks and then put something like a sponge on the end of it to paint the inside of support rail's after the rest of the tub is done .... not sure just and idea if anyone has done this please get back with me thanks ..............
I have a TJ and live in Texas. Mine had no rust at all, then I dropped the skid and a small amount had started in each of the frame holes on both sides. I bought the starter POR 15 kit and did the frame where the skid contacts and the same on the skid/trans crossmember. They make brushes to go into odd holes and hard to reach places. FYI, get some long sleeves and really good gloves. This stuff will not come off your skin. It likes humidity when curing and will stop your rust where it comes in contact with metal.
it is what it is except when its something else
Yes, many of the folks here have used the stuff. I just ordered another quart Monday. They do make "daubers" for their product, which is basically a wool ball on the end of some flexible wire, to get those hard to reach places. But some guys have used an old sock or material tied to a stiff wire to do the same thing.
Personally, I used a different product for inside the supports. Eastwood makes a flexible 18" hose with a conical spray tip that fits a rattle can and their Internal Frame Paint comes with one, as does their Rust Encapsulator. I choose that method because it's not near as messy. Anything POR gets on.... it ain't coming off unless done immediately with some type of solvent. Wear gloves and old clothes.
How much is required to do a complete CJ7 frame, axles&diff housing, shock towers etc?
I did my new frame with 2 coats and only used maybe a third of a quart. It's a really thin paint and a little goes a long way. But then I did many other parts, rear axle, both skid plates shock towers, steering gear, bunch of small parts, etc before I ran out. I started doing the seams on my tub and finished that quart, used one of the little 4 oz cans from their sample kit, and I just got another quart yesterday. So it does go longer than you'd think. If your buying a quart go thru Amazon.com. I got a quart for $32, which came thru TCP Global who usually charges $44/qt. (if you go straight thru them) like most other places I've seen.
No I did not take it down to bare metal-you don't have to. I used the etch as in the pictures on the link I gave on Street2Mud. It sat for a year in the Fla rain and NO RUST. Even the sides where you see the old rust holes (getting some rails next to cover it), no rust. I coated it well and I am very happy w/it. Go to the build link on S2Mud and look.
Yes I looked at ur pics and I like it ...... I have been told that if u don't get all paint off it wont stick so that's y im asking cause I don't want to do this again ......so u just used the metal ready on all bare metal and painted spots to or just the metal the coated with por-15
My por15 is going to be here Tuesday ..
I dipped the POR out of the can with a small plastic Dixie cup and put it into a red plastic Solo cup to paint with. Dipping the POR out keeps it from the sealing area of the can. If you get ANY in the sealing lip area, wipe it as clean as you can. Also take care opening the can. I almost destroyed the lid of mine trying to pry it off. It was almost locked to the can by the design of the sealing lips.
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy