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Unread 05-30-2012, 10:02 AM   #76
4x4=life
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Charleston, SC
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Great build! I will be keeping a eye out on this one I have a 83 CJ7 and a 75 cj5 that I want to do a full restoration on.

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Unread 05-30-2012, 11:44 AM   #77
Kastraelie
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1977 CJ7 
 
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Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
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Thanks guys.

Got up several hours before work today to make some more progress on the Jeep. I really want to have the frame well on its way to being done by the end of the week!


REALLY super-crappy pictures today guy, sorry.

It is really shocking how little I know about cars. I tried to remove the rear driveshaft by taking out the clips on the U joint. I don't know how that would help me looking back now that I understand how it works. All you need to do is unbolt the two mini U bolts on either side:





I was a bit confused on just how one is supposed to remove the driveshaft after unbolting it, as there seemed to be no slack in which to pull it from the rear axle. After a bit I realized I could just move the transfer case toward the front of the jeep as it was bolted to those rubber bushings, and there was some play. Then I was able to gently take out the driveshaft from the axle end:



I couldn't pull the driveshaft out from the transfercase, however. I had seen a picture of one before so I understood there was nothing in particular holding it in (unlike with the transmission, as I had no clue how it hooked up to the transfercase.).

I did notice some fluid coming from the yoke as I was pulling on it. I guessed that it might be capillary suction keeping it in, and decided I should drain the transfercase because it needed to be done anyways. I found a plug at the bottom and opened it up. BAM. NOAHS SECOND FLOOD. I was not prepared for the amount of fluid that came out of the transfer case...and so violently! It was nothing like draining a car engine. Fluid got everywhere and filled the oil catcher so fast it started to overflow:



With the transferbomb all drained, I could EASILY pull the driveshaft out:



The driveshaft looks modified...two welds on either side. I wonder if it was shortened or lengthened? I'm guessing shortened, you need to shorten them when you lift the jeep up, correct?

It was VERY obvious how to disconnect the front driveshaft after doing the rear, and it was simpler because you just needed to undo four bolts on the transfercase side instead of worrying about a splined yoke:



It would have been a pain in the butt to get them out with a spinning shaft, but my electric impact wrench made short work of them (the picture shows me using a wrench but I just wanted to point them out). I did drop a cap, but none of the bearings came out, thank God. I stuck it back on the u joint and removed the shaft:



I had another excuse to use my crane, and the transfer case had what seemed to be a mounting point on it for a chain anyways...I bolted my chain to that eye and to one of the transmission bolt holes in the front:



After getting some tension on the chain, it was time to remove the crossmember/skidplate. The PO had dropped the skidplate several incheswith a fabbed bracket that he bolted through the side of the frame, as an offering to the rust gods:



I have no idea why there are dents in the frame where the bolts go through...or what could have caused this, but they are obviously related to these bolts. Speaking of the bolts, they had been damaged some how and the threads made getting the nuts off nigh impossible. But I managed. Removing the two bolts on the underside of the skidplate that bolted to the transmission+transfercase adapter was easy as pie. When they came off the skidplate was easily removed with a clang:



The NP208 C transfercase was easily pulled out and moved into the garage. What is that long rod that connects to the transfercase, (the long one on the bottom of the picture) by the way? It doesn't seem to perform and mechanical function...some kind of brace?



Next it was time to get the Jeep into the garage. I had planned on moving it in there eventually so parked it so I could roll it in, but I needed slightly more space than I planned so I got the crane out again and lifted the front end...then I could move the front end left and push it in:



After a MAJOR battle with the Jeep, I got it into the garage. Something was binding in the passenger side rear wheel and it would not move forward unless I pushed just that wheel. It went backward fine, however. I made a post in this thread and got some helpful ideas. I'll figure out which one is causing my problem later. Right now I am just glad I achieved the milestone of getting the Jeep in the garage for the first time:




When I got it in, I noticed the front, rear spring hangar was severely damaged. I dont have a picture but it was basically cut in half. I ordered a new one on Amazon.com and will weld it in by measuring eye to eye on my springs and using the other side as a reference. All for now!
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Unread 06-04-2012, 05:49 PM   #78
Kastraelie
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Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
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The next stage in my journey was to remove the frame for cleaning, repair, and rust prevention.

My frame serial:


First I needed to take a couple shots of how the lines were routed, so I would know what I was doing later. I decided to post them here in case I wanted an easy reference:









You can see some "repair" already made to the seams of the frame:



Jeff came over to help out, and he got started on the hydraulic lines; he is disconnecting them from the steering box here:



While Jeff was working on the topside, I slid under the jeep to start to take apart the front end. The pitman arm made me shudder as it was COVERED in a hard sealant. I would call it caulk or silicon, but it was rock hard.



I had to go buy some more tools to take apart the front end. I bought a 1 5/16" wrench to get the pitman arm off. I need to use it as a weapon or something cause it was 27 bucks at Sears before tax:



I don't remember if I took that nut off first, or if I removed the pitman arm from the steering bar first...but here is a shot of me removing the cotter (sp?) pin from that nut:




Using the Sears steering fork tool to separate the steering bar from the pitman arm:



Separated:



Now, this part is shocking. I have read countless threads on these boards about removing pitman arms, and how they can be a BIATCH to get off. Some people give up and buy new steering boxes. I took my chisel to start to remove the gunk from the pitman arm, and I put it next to the arm, and it FELL OFF.

Like, I didn't even hit it, just barely touched it. Both Jeff and I were stunned. I inspected the arm and the splines on the steering box for damage, but didn't see ANY. Too funny, but I guess I will take that victory.

Removing the steering stabilizer shock:


I started to remove the bar that connects to the bars which I called quick disconnects on my YJ. On this jeep they don't disconnect. I sorry for my poor terminology. Anyways, this was the WRONG way to do it; once I removed the bolt at the top the jeep started to bend the bracket backwards ( you can see this at the top)





The RIGHT way was to remove these quick disconnects. Since it was already causing damage and it was too obvious they were too short for the current lift anyways, I quickly remedied the problem with a sawzaw cut through them:





Break for the next post.
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Unread 06-04-2012, 06:07 PM   #79
Kastraelie
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I needed to take time to remove the shackles, I tried at first to simply unbolt and slide them out, but it didn't work well:



Doing it this way (jacking the spring up to take tension off the shackle bolts) made it easy:



Springs out:



The front end U bolt nuts were welded on, so I cut them off with a grinder:



Then I chopped off the old rear crossmember...



...then trimmed the end caps:







Jeff helped me drag the frame out to the driveway, jack it up, and smash it with a hammer to get the 40 years of rust, dirt, waspnests, and sand out of it:







(The last pic was before we even started hitting it). When I was done I had an entire bucket of rust and crap come out of it. The bucket was heavy.

I pushed the D44 out to pressurewash it:





Front D33:





My old springs (if anyone wants these, they are free if you want to come pick them up in Biloxi MS:



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Unread 06-04-2012, 06:30 PM   #80
Kastraelie
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The new Omix Ada ( yeah, I know how everyone feels about them here ) rear spring perches are shorter than the stock ones...this might actually work out better if they fit cause the rear crossmember will slide on easier without trimming:



The old Superlift shocks were trashed. The yellow ones which look like they could be stock were working great though...these ones were in the rear. I probably will try to reuse them in the front for the steering stabilizer. I need to do more research on this first and see if they are strong enough:



I started cleaning up the frame with HF abrasive wheels....it cut through the paint alright...it actually started shaving through the frame metal. =/ It was so good at this it actually left a highly reflective finish:


I am going to need to find another method of stripping the paint and rust.

This picture was in my jeep folder, so might as well include it. Gurkha K. Hansotia Estate Selection. Medium bodied with a great start and bold finish. Easy draw ( I punched it) and produced decent ash but awesome amounts of smoke. Pretty decent



OK Jeff had enough of me for the day so I went back to work cleaning it out. I busted out the pressure washer and went to town on the inside:



I took a break and admired my mess:



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Unread 06-04-2012, 06:46 PM   #81
Kastraelie
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This:



My replacement for this:



Planning on welding it in, I needed to remove the powdercoating from it. So I sanded it off:



Getting the old perch off was a PITA. I thought it would be simple but it just would not come out no matter how much grinding and cutting I did. Eventually I figured out it was best to take the skinny wheel and cut a line directly through the bolts, splitting the perch in half. From there it was easy to cut and bang it out with a sledge:



I wanted to do something about the horribly ugly welds left by the PO. I know I couldn't fix them, but I could dress them up a little:







The passenger side front spring perch seems a bit bent to me. It might not make a difference, but then again... Is it bad enough to warrant cutting out and replacing? Hope not...



I flipped the frame over and inspected it. There is some pretty bad frame rot near the passenger side middle spring perch. I could bend and move it with one hand.



The driver side was also damaged, but not as bad:



The front perches have a good amount of surface rust, but nothing scary so far. It will be critical to seal this area from rust to prevent major damage later.



Finally, here is a shot of the custom rear crossmember from ChiefWaho. This thing is a BEAST! It is so much thicker than the origional--it's thick enough to be a bumper, really. Great guy to work with, and he sent it to me ultra fast:

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Unread 06-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #82
benullman
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Location: mechanicsville, VA
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http://crabtreetool.com/

dont do your jeep wrong

Ben
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Unread 06-04-2012, 08:42 PM   #83
Skerr
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DUDE... you're an ANIMAL! Did you get all that done today? d-a-n-g...

The rot along the weld seams is common. I had to fix that too, but mine wasn't as bad. Glad you got your crossmember. Keep up the good work!
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Unread 06-04-2012, 09:30 PM   #84
2girlsAndaGuy
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Glad to see you decided to go with that crossmember, did he give you the tie ins with it? Your making some impressive progress, looking forward to your next update.
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[COLOR="Blue"][URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/project-ioh-79-cj5-refresh-1360217/"]My 79 CJ5 Build Thread[/URL][/COLOR]

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Unread 06-04-2012, 10:56 PM   #85
Kastraelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
http://crabtreetool.com/

dont do your jeep wrong

Ben
I certainly don't want to do it wrong. Do you think that my front perches are that bad? Those perches you linked sure are beefy...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
DUDE... you're an ANIMAL! Did you get all that done today? d-a-n-g...

Well, on Friday, but yeah I spent a long day on it. It was that or go to work!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr
The rot along the weld seams is common. I had to fix that too, but mine wasn't as bad. Glad you got your crossmember. Keep up the good work!
I skipped off to your thread as soon as I saw my frame to see what I could stea....copy. Unfortunately I will have to come up with a different plan.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2girlsAndaGuy View Post
Glad to see you decided to go with that crossmember, did he give you the tie ins with it? Your making some impressive progress, looking forward to your next update.
Thanks again for hooking me up with his email. Definitely an awesome deal. I paid him for the tabs, it was already a steal.


I was hoping to get by with those front spring perches...but now I am self conscious. Removing them wouldn't be so bad but the drivers side one is welded in with the steering box SO much that it would be a ppppaaiiiinnnn to get out. I guess I have some more thinking to do.

Thanks for the comments guys...keeps me going.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 10:35 AM   #86
JMcDonaldKnives
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1980 CJ7 
 
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Posts: 441
I just saw this thread yesterday and didn't get a chance to post until this morning. When you did your engine rebuild, I hope you replaced all the head bolts. Head bolts/studs are TTY (torque to yield) in almost all cases and need to be replaced every time you reassemble the motor. Other than that I love the build. Can't wait to see it finished.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #87
benullman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMcDonaldKnives
I just saw this thread yesterday and didn't get a chance to post until this morning. When you did your engine rebuild, I hope you replaced all the head bolts. Head bolts/studs are TTY (torque to yield) in almost all cases and need to be replaced every time you reassemble the motor. Other than that I love the build. Can't wait to see it finished.
Head bolts can usually be reused twice. I was willing to take a chance. A new set was $85

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Unread 06-05-2012, 01:32 PM   #88
Kastraelie
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Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMcDonaldKnives View Post
I just saw this thread yesterday and didn't get a chance to post until this morning. When you did your engine rebuild, I hope you replaced all the head bolts. Head bolts/studs are TTY (torque to yield) in almost all cases and need to be replaced every time you reassemble the motor. Other than that I love the build. Can't wait to see it finished.
Oooo, I didn't know that....thanks for that info

Quote:
Originally Posted by benullman View Post
Head bolts can usually be reused twice. I was willing to take a chance. A new set was $85

Ben
I think I will in this case. Because it was my first rebuild the headbolts might be the least of my long list of worries. I am hoping it will be solid...but if not...then I hope it gets me through a few paychecks closer to a 383 stroker.

I highly doubt I will be reselling the Jeep...but in case it happens I am going to be honest and point them to this thread so they will get full disclosure.

Thank you, Benullman and Ben, for your comments. They are much appreciated.
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Unread 06-05-2012, 03:47 PM   #89
Kastraelie
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Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
Posts: 532
Worked on the Jeep again this morning. I have been working nights so it has been nice for this project.

I took the wheels off the rearend so I could set it up on jacks. While the wheels are definitely nicer than bottom shelf stuff, they aren't really my style. Neither are the tires for that matter, though they are decent and have lots of life yet.

When I took them off I was extremely impressed. Usually aluminum rims aren't really any lighter than their steel counterparts, because the mnfs make them thicker--I only am saying this because I spent several hours this weekend looking at rims and their respective weights. In my case, the entire wheel and tire were surprisingly light! Heck, they feel much, MUCH lighter than my 31 Baja Claw on my steel Cragars my YJ had...and these tires are bigger. Must be a nicer rim than I thought.

Another surprise...holy spacer, batman!



I didn't measure it but it is at least 2".

My solution for the frame repair is to use some 1/4" thick steel angle and weld it up in there. So I measured and cut/notched the pieces:



I got the frame extremely clean on the outside with the aluminum oxide wheel. I am going to POR15 the inside once I make the repairs.





Because there will be steel surfaces that will be very hard to coat with the POR15 when I do the repairs, I needed to prime them beforehand. I found that they make welding primer, and I am going to give it a shot. When you mix this it looks like the stuff the bad terminator was made out of in T2.





So the directions say to let the primer cure for 16 hours before surface painting. They didn't give any welding instructions. I waited an hour (it was really hot outside anyways) and welded in the first brace (only covers a small, non-critical crack). I don't know if I was supposed to wait longer, or if this stuff just isn't that conductive...but it was like welding through mild surface rust and fought me every bit of the way. I did get some good beads in there and made sure both the metals puddled into each other...but it did not look pretty.



I am going to wait a bit longer for the paint to cure. If I cant get some better puddles then I am going to take the wire wheel to the edges to get a better weld.

I'm making the cigars "my thing" for this thread. I had this last night...Alex Bradley MAXX the Freak. This is a 60 gauge cigar and is as massive in flavor as it is in size. Huge nicotine rush but still premium, natural tobacco. This starts off smoking like applewood bacon pit-smoke, and develops into a nice heavy wood chip flavor. It gets a bit strong toward the end but still remains on the edge of tame. This cigar is a regular to my humidor and one of my favorites.

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Unread 06-05-2012, 03:56 PM   #90
BlackOPS2
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Very impressive rebuild... I feel your pain when it comes to restorations. Seriously, I am very impressed with your thoroughness and attention to detail during this project. Keep up the good work!
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