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Unread 05-12-2012, 08:26 PM   #61
Skerr
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My computer didn't load ANY of the pictures in your last two posts, but then I have satellite. It discriminates! What I see looks very good, and I am especially impressed with how you have jumped on this thing! I can't help at all with the engine, having never built one, so I will give you an "Atta Boy" and a pat on the back! Good job!!

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Unread 05-14-2012, 02:40 PM   #62
Kastraelie
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Thanks so much, Skerr. Clay's CJ5 Build thread keeps me going!

I am going to need some expertise and guidance from the forum on my rolling chassis...particularly the frame. I have uploaded 25 high res photos into an album that y'all can pour through and make comments on as you see fit. I have pretty much decided on going with a fiberglass tub down the line (unless I fall into a pit of money and buy an aluminum chassis ) so I am wondering in particular if I will have to chop off the back end of the chassis that has been modified or if I can keep it.

My understanding is the fiberglass tubs (would be using the deluxe tub without the tailgate opening from 4WD) doing really use the body mount locations but rather some kind of rail system? If this is the case I might be able to get away with some welding and POR-15 on the back end, rather than buying frame sleeves and the rear cross member?

Here are the PICTURES Click on the magnifying glass in top right corner of pic for full resolution.

1. Overall side shot
2. worst body mount, looks reparable with a washer, no?
3. WTF is with all this slag? Are all stock CJs like this or was this more "modding"? Are these stock shackles? (pic is driverside front)
4. Poor picture, but what are these fabricated shackle braces for? Was this actually stock?
5. Same as 4, but passenger side
6. top view of front diff
7. front view
8. front pass brake...lots of surf rust.
9. Tranny and xcase mounting
10. alternate view of #9
11. Xcase. Is it supposed to be at this angle? Any guesses about where the fluid stains are from?
12. Passenger rear shackle. Again, is this stock?

13. gas tank area. Is this about where the tank is normally mounted? This tank is obviously new, but is it a replacement jeep tank or was it jerry rigged to fit. You see that U channel toward the rear above where the rear Xmember would go. This and the bumper mount are welded SOLID in there, so I am wondering if mounting a fiberglass tub on it is going to be possible or if I have to rip it out and weld in a new Xmember.

14. driver side rear shackle
15. rear brace?
16. Frame rot (only I can see) in backmost corner driver side. This is where the frame and rear Xmember meet. What say you about repairs in my league?
17. rear shot of jeep
18. front pass view of spring. These look skinnier than the back.
19. are these U bolts in the right place???
20. more shackle welding for you to look at and tell me if its stock or not
21. Hairline crack but wont know how bad it is still I wirewheel it. Any thoughts or opinions on what I should look for while uncovering it? How to fix it? Not sure I can get a welding bead in there.
22. rear driveline angle. I don't know how bad this looks because I have no reference.
23. another shot of the driver rear frame rot, sorry that it didn't get grouped with the other.
24. driver rear frame rot, from back of vehicle near bumper view
25. Transfercase drop? This cant be stock. What is the best way of keeping this area safe from rocks and stumps? Is there a skid plate for this area for CJs like my YJ had? I didn't see anything from a quick google...

Thanks so much for taking the time to look at these and comment. I am in over my head and need solid advice. Thanks!
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Unread 05-14-2012, 03:22 PM   #63
BOISERUNNER
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Wow you got some work ahead of you.Looks like the back support got welded on during the electrical box body lift. The good news is I think I could teach my dog to weld as pretty as some of the PO's work so any repairs you do will only make it look better..I have never seen shackles with the diag. brace thing on it. I know you are probably standing looking at a dead whale and saying How in the hell am I gonna eat all of that? Just keep your head down and keep at it a bite at a time. Keep after it...
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Unread 05-14-2012, 03:40 PM   #64
Kastraelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOISERUNNER View Post
Wow you got some work ahead of you.Looks like the back support got welded on during the electrical box body lift. The good news is I think I could teach my dog to weld as pretty as some of the PO's work so any repairs you do will only make it look better..I have never seen shackles with the diag. brace thing on it. I know you are probably standing looking at a dead whale and saying How in the hell am I gonna eat all of that? Just keep your head down and keep at it a bite at a time. Keep after it...


So is the conclusion to strip it bare and start grinding those leaf mounts off? I am looking at the RE 4.5" Extreme Duty lift and those use the YJ leafs anyways. Not sure what they look like all done up so anyone with pictures would be awesome about now. Keep in mind I really am a noob and don't know what stuff SHOULD look like.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 04:31 PM   #65
Kastraelie
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What is the best (combination of fastest and not super expensive) way of getting these perches out:


welded perch

I don't see how its done, even with a torch. do I just cut them to kingdom come and grind grind grind then buy replacements?
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Unread 05-14-2012, 04:38 PM   #66
2girlsAndaGuy
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I'd cut them away with a skinny wheel, and then take a flapper to the left over to smooth things out. If you take the skinny wheel right at that weld on the perch it will go through it in no time, and once the perch is broke free it will be much easier to clean up those serious guerilla welds there.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 04:45 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kastraelie View Post

13. gas tank area. Is this about where the tank is normally mounted? This tank is obviously new, but is it a replacement jeep tank or was it jerry rigged to fit. You see that U channel toward the rear above where the rear Xmember would go. This and the bumper mount are welded SOLID in there, so I am wondering if mounting a fiberglass tub on it is going to be possible or if I have to rip it out and weld in a new Xmember.

20. more shackle welding for you to look at and tell me if its stock or not

Thanks so much for taking the time to look at these and comment. I am in over my head and need solid advice. Thanks!
Have a look in my build thread, I just replaced the rear crossmember and have a few shots of the frame before I welded it on. I would suggest just cutting all that crap out of the back end of the frame and go back to a stock crossmember. Those rear shackle hangers are stock but again the factory didn't weld them on, that was done by the PO.

As for the tank, it's tough to tell how it mounts at the rear but the front crossmember is factory. I just pulled my tank, and I have the same crossmember.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 05:06 PM   #68
Kastraelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2girlsAndaGuy View Post
Have a look in my build thread, I just replaced the rear crossmember and have a few shots of the frame before I welded it on. I would suggest just cutting all that crap out of the back end of the frame and go back to a stock crossmember. Those rear shackle hangers are stock but again the factory didn't weld them on, that was done by the PO.

As for the tank, it's tough to tell how it mounts at the rear but the front crossmember is factory. I just pulled my tank, and I have the same crossmember.
Great advice, and another build thread to drool over!

Looks like I will be grabbing a Xmember from chiefwaho. =D I'm going to have to make it work with something like this but from your pictures it looks like it is going to...
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Unread 05-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #69
2girlsAndaGuy
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It looks like those sleeves you posted would take care of that rear end rot. From the pictures you posted it seems that those plates extend far beyond the rot on your frame and as long as you have the ends exposed that crossmember will slide right into place for welding.
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Unread 05-23-2012, 01:12 PM   #70
Kastraelie
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I powerwashed the rolling chassis today so I could get more comfortable with it and see what I was working with.

1. There are a few more rusty spots that aren't very severe on both sides of the frame behind the front of the rear spring perches. I think I can cut out the cancer and weld in something...I have this 16 gauge here would that be enough?

2. How should I get the frame cleaned up and sealed up? I've seen a few people pour POR15 inside a taped up frame (can't remember their names, sorry)...seems like a PITA but if it must be done... My main question concerning this is how to get the inside cleaned up for this? I have an inch of mud and sand in the inside of my frame and pressurwashing through the drain holes only got me so far...

3. How do I deal with the washer repairs on the bodymount points? Do I need to make the holes pretty wide to make things adjustable...I see that a fiberglass tub mounts differently than a steel one. Any of you fiberglass guys have pictures of your intall? I have been searching like a madman on the net for fiberglass tub install threads, but have only been finding a few pics here and there...

4. Assuming that my tub clears the tranny/xcase, and that I plan on buying a new driveshaft (thinking about a SOA or RE 4.5" Extreme), can I just go ahead and remove the awful 5" skid plate drop the PO left me? Is the rear driveshaft and engine mounting the only objects affected by this?

I'm mostly asking these questions to think out loud, but I really love opinions, comments, and better yet "No idiot, do it THIS way" posts.

Thanks again!
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Unread 05-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #71
Kastraelie
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OK so I got back to work on the things I could handle without advice.

I left off back here with the frame: this monstrosity of a back bumper that matched the front and its jimmyed body mounts:


I had PBblasted the bolts holding it in since I began my disassembly weeks back. I busted out my new electric torque wrench and got to work on them. turns out none of the bolts were bolts anymore. In fact the only one that was still a "bolt" and not "rust weld" was this one:


Yeah....so I am glad I decided to take this sucker off...

I made sure to keep far away when I knocked it off with my 5lb sledge, but it still ended up flipping backward from weight and somehow crushing my slidy clamps I put well under the Jeep. Oh well, it could have been my toes:


This sucker was HEAVY by the way. Not as heavy as my enormous front bumper but still pretty heavy. I took off the 4 3/4 ton D links to reuse and dragged it to the side of the driveway.

Next I busted out the pressure washer to see what was under the roadgrime and red clay:



The frame actually looked pretty good...I was scared that the grim would be hiding more cracks but it looks like everything that was bad about it I already knew.

I was torn on the tubesteps. On the one hand I hate the look of tubesteps. On the other hand since I decided on a fiberglass body I was worried the lift might be a bit much and didn't want my rough, rowdy, and short friends to damage the door "steps" on the jeep like they damaged my steel YJ tub so I was thinking about keeping them. Plus I am not sure how rock sliders and fiberglass tubs mix yet. If anyone has experience with this please let me know...

Anyways, I decided since the tubsteps had a generous but capillarity inducing gap between them and the frame they had to go before more rot could happen. I was hoping soooo much they hadn't already rotted out the contact points. When I got the Jeep I had no idea how to remove them since there were welds on the sides next to the body mounts, and no grinder was going to be able to reach them and keep the steps in tact (Jeff wanted them if I wasn't going to keep them). Lucky for me I had that new Sawzaw:



It got the job done in about 20 mins. It would have been faster but it wasn't the right tool for the job...just the closest I had. The tube steps were intact and SO WAS MY FRAME

With my steps out of the way I could easily move the crane over the tranny+xfer case.



At this point I realized I had MAJOOOORRR Sunburn on my back. Hundreds of blisters and the like...not fun. The good news is that it stopped me from ruining my driveline from ignorance. I REALLY need help at this point...



I wanted to lift the Xfer case, adapter (I think that is what the middle part is called?) and tranny all out at once and connected since I have no idea whats inside those things and don't want to break it past my ability. Only issue is I don't know what where or how to rig them so I can lift them out. I need some detailed help here guys. Sorry to ask again but I can't move on without some advice or links to a page with ideas. THANKS
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Unread 05-29-2012, 04:24 AM   #72
Kastraelie
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So I got up at 3 AM while it it was very dark because this was bugging me.

I got the TH350 all rigged up (this is before I adjusted the chains):



Then I unbolted the four bolts from the transmission + adapter:



Now I am not my best this time of day, and I don't want to break anything...the transmission did not pull apart like I had hoped. I have scoured the internet for some pictures or something on how these two items are connected but with no luck. I am afraid to take a prybar to them until I see how they mate.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 05:33 AM   #73
Kastraelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kastraelie View Post
I am afraid to take a prybar to them until I see how they mate.
HAHAHAHA

Who am I kidding?

GO GO GADGET PRYBAR:



Swing Away!



I did get some tranny fluid pouring out the back. I'm not sure if it is supposed to be sealed back there?
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Unread 05-29-2012, 10:46 AM   #74
2girlsAndaGuy
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making great progress, keep it up!
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Unread 05-29-2012, 11:13 AM   #75
takirc02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kastraelie

I need some detailed help here guys. Sorry to ask again but I can't move on without some advice or links to a page with ideas. THANKS
I'd help if I could, but I am learning from you! Good work and keep going.
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