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Unread 07-27-2012, 12:01 AM   #136
Kastraelie
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1977 CJ7 
 
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Location: Biloxi, Mississippi
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Thanks for the recent tips and compliments, guys!

So the lines can be bent by hand? Without kinking? If that's the case...I have a flaring kit from my water cooling projects. Then I could buy a "roll" of the pipe, bend it by hand, and be done.

How does one get the roll straight? Also by hand?

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Unread 07-27-2012, 06:19 AM   #137
takirc02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kastraelie
Thanks for the recent tips and compliments, guys!

So the lines can be bent by hand? Without kinking? If that's the case...I have a flaring kit from my water cooling projects. Then I could buy a "roll" of the pipe, bend it by hand, and be done.

How does one get the roll straight? Also by hand?
Yes, by hand. No problems with kinking as long as you aren't real aggressive. You can use stuff you have laying around for leverage/shaping, and as long as you are going at a reasonable pace, even 90* ish bends are no problem. I was nervous when I started about kinking but by the end of the (quick) job I was feeling real comfortable working with it. Other things you will need are a tube cutter, the $5 mini version works fine, and appropriate fittings for the style of your flares.
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Unread 07-27-2012, 08:23 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kastraelie View Post
Thanks for the recent tips and compliments, guys!

So the lines can be bent by hand? Without kinking? If that's the case...I have a flaring kit from my water cooling projects. Then I could buy a "roll" of the pipe, bend it by hand, and be done.

How does one get the roll straight? Also by hand?
The tubing roll was my original idea as well, but I didn't go that route. Not sure why, but I think the roll was beyond my budget, or maybe I would use comparatively little tubing from the roll. You will have to explore that. I used the pre-flared sticks with the ends already made. They are inexpensive (a few dollars per stick). The sticks are very easy to bend by hand, no kinking issues as takirc02 states. You won't have any bending issues, either with the roll or with the sticks, so get that worry out of your head now.
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Unread 07-30-2012, 07:50 PM   #139
Kastraelie
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Thanks guys. I will be measuring the tubing and picking it out tomorrow.

Also, I just sat on a blacked out Harley Sportster 883 today and I can't get it out of my head...want...so....BAD

Gotta look at Jeep parts and get my mind off it.


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Unread 07-30-2012, 07:54 PM   #140
81CJ7V8
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As much as I LOVE HARLEY's, don't do the Sportster, black or blue or green or any color. It's the JK of Jeeps.
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Unread 07-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #141
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As much as I LOVE HARLEY's, don't do the Sportster, black or blue or green or any color. It's the JK of Jeeps.
I have heard that, but 'splain it. I like how it looks too. What's wrong with Sportsters? Although I am looking at a used Honda ST1300.
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Unread 07-30-2012, 08:19 PM   #142
81CJ7V8
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Although I am not a historian, and nor am I an expert, but I do recall hearing that Harley came out with the Sportster 883 Model to appeal to women, in hopes of boosting sales. They took alot of the Harley "backbone" out of the Sportster when built. You want a Harley man, Springer Softtail, Dyna wide glide, Fatboy, or even the new Crossbones is better. I prefer the Springer Softtail Custom, but I don't have $30,000.
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Unread 07-31-2012, 06:44 AM   #143
Kastraelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81CJ7V8 View Post
As much as I LOVE HARLEY's, don't do the Sportster, black or blue or green or any color. It's the JK of Jeeps.
Ouch. That's a pretty severe statement bro.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 81CJ7V8 View Post
Although I am not a historian, and nor am I an expert, but I do recall hearing that Harley came out with the Sportster 883 Model to appeal to women, in hopes of boosting sales. They took alot of the Harley "backbone" out of the Sportster when built. You want a Harley man, Springer Softtail, Dyna wide glide, Fatboy, or even the new Crossbones is better. I prefer the Springer Softtail Custom, but I don't have $30,000.
Makes sense. And I appreciate you letting me me know its a girls bike--that is the kind of decision that needs to be made deliberately.

I think the reason I love the looks of the 883 so much is that it reminds me of the Indian 741. I love the look of the old school bikes. Don't get me wrong, big badass Harleys are awesome...but I like the look and feel of the small bobberesque bikes.
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Unread 07-31-2012, 09:20 AM   #144
81CJ7V8
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Here is my personal advice for you and a Harley. I for the longest time wanted a Suzuki GSX-R. Rode one and hated it. Ended up on a Honda CBR 600RR. Pick a couple that you like aesthetically, and ride them. Take the wife if she is willing to ride, and see what's the most comfy. Then financially, then looks the best. That's how I'd do it.
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Unread 07-31-2012, 09:55 AM   #145
AdamH07
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I started out on a Sportster but it was the 1200 Custom. If you decide you want one, please ride both a 883 and then a 1200. You won't want a 883.

The Sportster 1200 is a fun bike, easy to ride. I am currently on a V-Rod Muscle.
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Unread 08-01-2012, 07:31 PM   #146
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My post was right
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Unread 08-01-2012, 07:47 PM   #147
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I rode a Sporty for several years, hell it even made it into a magazine back in 2000. But even with all the work and money put into it it's still a Sporty and you have to luck upon the right buyer to not take a real beating when you go to upgrade or get rid of it.

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Unread 08-17-2012, 02:29 PM   #148
Kastraelie
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I need to get back in the swing of updating. Been busy with life, but did get work done on the Jeep.

Jeff came back from his trip to Arkansas (where his home is) and brought down his miller stick welder. His goal was to use it for frame repair of his CJ8, but not before I could get my grubby hands on it.

Well Jeff decided he was going to show me how to work it on my frame (I needed to redo many of the welds I had made on it). Unfortunately Jeff can't see the welding arc very well anymore and he punched some holes in the soft side of the frame.

I spent a good amount of time trying to fix them, but I ended up in a happy spot.

Here is a shot of Jeff showing me how to use the stick welder:



Once I was practiced on some scrap metal, and filled in/grounded off the holes in the frame, I finished the rear cross member mods. I needed to adjust it to be compatible with CJ7 springs. I got it welded on, and with the cleanest welds I have made yet. They were picture perfect due to the proper placement of metal, conditions, luck, etc. The difference between a pro and my welds is that a pro can do it 100% of the time...its just luck with me.



With the frame welded up, it was time to get the axels finished so I could stick them under it!

Wire brushed, sanded, scraped, pressure washed, marine cleaned, then metal ready =



Starting to POR15...



Done!



I needed to get the frame up higher so I could work on the suspension, so I used my jack...this thing was worth the cost already and I still have more to use it for:



Jeff came over to play at this point in the day and helped me drag the axels under the frame:



Installing the RE 4.5" lift on the front end went pretty easy without a Jeep on top of the frame. We didn't have any surprises at this point, though I should mention that the front greaseable shackle bolts were a bit mislabled but I sorted them out.




Then we got a chair to lift up the back end:



Which let me bolt in the rear hangers with grade 8 bolts:



I sealed the bolts with loctite and with a protective coating of POR15 on top I think I can avoid rust in that area for a good while.

I dont have a rolling chassis quite yet, but it still is a good time to do the brake lines. I started off by cleaning up the brake junction box...this thing was a solid brick of caked on grease, dirt, and paint. A good long while with a wire brush and chemicals made it nice and new:



Various other parts got to spend valuable time with the brush as well:



The rear springs required some hammertime persuasion...but they went in with grease and a few whallops. I recommend two people if you have't done this before:



I went around town searching for brake lines...eventually a found a place that carried them in the right sizes and fittings (Advanced Auto). These were real nice teflon coated pipes and the lengths were about right.



There was only one problem with the brake lines. The rear delivery tube is 1/4" to 1/4". However it needed to be a 1/4" to 3/16" because the Rubicon Express SS brake line (they call it an extension, but its just a brake line) is 3/16". Because of the flanged nature of the pipes, I couldn't just use a air compressor adapter...it had to be a brake line fitting. I did eventually find one that was available for sale. Buy this if you are buying a RE 4.5" lift kit for your CJ7:



If there are any noobs like me out there who are reading this preparing for your build, take notes.

Jeff gave me an anatomy lesson on a drum brake ( I was unfamiliar).



After removing everything to replace the brake cylinder (or w/e they are called) I was cut up, bruised, and abused. I recommend safety goggles to aid in retaining your eyeballs in their sockets. Also gloves. I did both sides.

I went to attach the parking brake cables to the T joiner post on the frame (not sure what the real name for it is either). The passenger side cable was more than long enough to be relocated and attach to the T no worries. The driver's side was not. Duh. I had lifted the vehicle almost 5".

I did some research and it seems some people order a passenger side line for the driver's side....that seems clunky--it is going to be way to long for my comfort. Some others suggested a CJ8 cable as they are supposeadly 10" longer...but I haven't been able to prove this to myself from online parts descriptions. I am still debating what to do here.

Over the next couple days I will be finishing the brake lines, and installing my new front calipers. My old ones were pretty much junk. I heard that the brake lines need to be isolated from vibration because they can wear out and fail. I will be using permanent adhesive foam on my prepped frame, along with rubber shielded clamps.

I will try to be better about updates, but for now I will close with this shot of where I am at the time of this post:



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Unread 08-17-2012, 03:30 PM   #149
243
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Looking good

I don't know what Sportster is in HD talk but if it means big motor naked bike, I like it but would agree, 1200 minimum...me, a XB12S Lightning would work
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Unread 08-17-2012, 06:52 PM   #150
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Whew!! GREAT work!! And I LOVE those rims.
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