PO's Nutter hack job has me confused? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
Outnumbered
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PO's Nutter hack job has me confused?

Been getting into the wiring lately. I'm trying to figure out what was done. Here is what I have. The jeep is a California version:

1) Pre-stepper BBD installed.
2) PO cut off all stepper motor wires and taped them up and grounded a red/black wire from the harness (WTH?)(edit: located this in FSM as correct Pink W/Tr)
3) EGR, choke, oil pressure switch, manifold heater, and OEM air cleaner are all either gone or not connected.
4) Dizzy is running off of ported vacuum (indicates nutter is working?)
5) OEM duraspark is in place
6) OEM computer is in place.
7) No other wires appear to be cut other than stepper.
8) No apparent nutter bypass run. All orange and violet wires run as the FSM shows them.
9) Dizzy is turned all the way counter clockwise and the vacuum advance port is against the block. (did not check timing before tearing into it)

Jeep runs pretty good but I have only driven it about 20-30 miles. I'm getting ready to put it back together and drive it more and see if it has any issues. It did not hesitate, stumble, or idle rough at all when driving it in the PO's configuration.

My main questions are:

1) Will the PO's disabling all the above stuff effectively kill the computer and act like a nutter?

2) How can it even run without the bypass wires?

3) What can I expect if I run the nutter bypass wires (will I need to change timing)?

Thanks in advance


1985 CJ7, 258, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20, 4.5" lift, 33" BFG's
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 05:40 PM
only in a jeep cj
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If the computer( behind the glovebox) is still hooked up, the ignition is going through it and it is not bypassed.
If a bypass wire is present, it is usually found outside the main loom and runs over to the ign module on the left inner fender.
The way I do the bypass is a bit different. I pull ALL the engine wires which is two big harness sections and lay them out on a table. From the firewall harness, pull off the flexloom only and leave it as it lays. From the computer harness, pull off all the flexloom and remove the wires that connect the other ign module plug to the distributor plug. On these four fires, you will cut one where it splices off to the computer. Other than this, leaf them uncut and connect between the two plugs. In the unused computer section, remove the long purple wire to be used in a minute. Put the two ign plugs next to each other and work the pulled wires into the main loom ending where the distributor plug would originally come out. The purple wire runs through to the ign module and connects on the module side of the connection as there is no place in the plug. The last thing is you now have no choke. To fix that run a tap from the far single wire at the 4 way weatherpack connector to the choke. This is the proper wire as it works through the oil pressure switch.

No, I don't have pics but can take some.
The majorly thins out the wires and cleans it all up

Ed
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1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-03-2012, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Computer is still hooked up and no bypass wires, as stated.

1985 CJ7, 258, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20, 4.5" lift, 33" BFG's
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-04-2012, 08:54 AM
Jon In Tucson
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It sounds like the PO didn't really do a Nutter... just hacked the harness. It runs because the CEC unit is in limp mode. If you follow the picture heavy thread on the Nutter by Lucky Cheesehead, you'll have less head scratching.
Also, yes you will have to adjust the timing if you do the Nutter. God bless.
Jon In Tucson

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post #5 of 8 Old 02-04-2012, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budblind View Post
It sounds like the PO didn't really do a Nutter... just hacked the harness. It runs because the CEC unit is in limp mode. If you follow the picture heavy thread on the Nutter by Lucky Cheesehead, you'll have less head scratching.
Also, yes you will have to adjust the timing if you do the Nutter. God bless.
Jon In Tucson
I've read that thread and many others. I'm trying to figure out what could be "limped" other than timing since all the computer controls are cut or gone. Does limp mode change the timing?

Thanks

1985 CJ7, 258, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20, 4.5" lift, 33" BFG's
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-04-2012, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply budblind, your reply prompted me to do a search for "limp mode" and found a post by Mike Romain that noted limp mode locks timing. So, in my case, it sounds like I am only getting centrifugal advance from the distributor weights? I'm not quite sure though since I'm not very up to speed on how distributors work.

I'm guessing that with my current set up I am not gaining the full potential of the motor. This would make sense since I did not drive it hard on the way home (20+ mile trip), knowing the motor and trans mounts were toast. That would explain why I did not notice it running poorly. Had I put my foot in it it would most likely have not had much power with limited or possibly no advance.

Maybe someone can confirm this for my curiosity?

Thanks again

1985 CJ7, 258, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20, 4.5" lift, 33" BFG's
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-04-2012, 05:28 PM
dslywalker
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With your dizzy vacummn advance against the block,i would assume the plug wires are configured in a way to make it run in order.Meaning they wouldn't be as the FSM would show them.Your #1 plug would be in a different position on the cap.Hope you get it all in order.
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post #8 of 8 Old 02-04-2012, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I ended up pulling the computer harness and computer plug completely out today. I was able to do it without cutting any wires.

I decided to buy an MSD and start from scratch. Seemed foolish to keep that stuff with none of it hooked up.

Thanks for your help

1985 CJ7, 258, TF999, D300, D30, AMC20, 4.5" lift, 33" BFG's
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