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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:01 PM   #16
Fjguercio
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See where it says "stock orginal DuraSpark" that is the ignition. The coil/ignition modual/distributor is your ignition. So why do you think the answ for you would be different.

I also suggest you scan the JeepForum Rules as well as the posts with a little more detail. Sware words, disrespect, double posting are not allowed.

as posted a few times, slow down, read with detail, stop the name calling

Fred


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
Chad,

IN your teamrush question prior post, 50 posts, This was answered by me and JeepHammer at least twice.
Always nice to read the post....

I told you to use a gap of .040 to 045" but no more. If you have the stock orginal DuraSpark it might be better to stay on the .040 range not to stress and heat up the modual as much.

JeepHammer also said:
[/B]


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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:07 PM   #17
chadlow
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IF YOU UPGRADE THE WIRES,CAP, AND ROTOR, THATS NOT STOCK ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!seriously, are you going to continue this? there is no name calling going on here,no cussing, you are the one causing all the trouble.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:11 PM   #18
chadlow
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And as for double posting, what do you think you are doing? This thread should have ended after the 3rd post.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:20 PM   #19
Fjguercio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlow View Post
IF YOU UPGRADE THE WIRES,CAP, AND ROTOR, THATS NOT STOCK ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!seriously, are you going to continue this? there is no name calling going on here,no cussing, you are the one causing all the trouble.
That is the TeamRush upgrade to the spark plug wires, cap, rotar, adapter. This is the whole premise to the upgrade. THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH IN ALL YOUR POSTS IS IT NOT???? The TeamRush upgrade/change are tune up parts. The Ignition can stay the same and would be considered to be stock. Bring it to the Jeep Dealer and he will know how to test it and repair it.

As you posted in a few other threads recently you could use Or change to Pertronix, HEI Modual with 4 wire or 7 wire as you have asked. Others have posted gaps of .055" also but I would not suggest.

You can twist things around any way you want.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:25 PM   #20
chadlow
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Congratulations, you just won the first seat on my ignore list!!!!!
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:25 PM   #21
Bakunin
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Easy there campers

Perhaps a mod can lock this thread for us before things get too ugly?

Weigh your remarks before you speak, or you may be sorry soon,
Don't say things in December you'll regret in June...
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:27 PM   #22
chadlow
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Hey, I'm all for that, the moderator has been notified of my problem.
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Unread 01-05-2009, 11:42 PM   #23
JeepHammer
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Man!
You guys just rub each other the wrong way!

Anyway, To answer the question...

The idea of putting on a larger cap and taller rotor is to control higher Spark Energies.

More spacing between the cap terminals and a vented cap help keep cross fires, multi fires to a minimum, and the taller rotor helps keep the jump to ground (Ground Fires) to a minimum.
----------------------------

Once you have the taller rotor and wider cap on your engine,
THEN, AND ONLY THEN, Should you open the plug gap up!

Opening the plug gap up drives the firing voltages up in the coil.
Larger gap means the coil has to produce more voltage to Ionize the gap so the plug can fire.

Go beyond about 0.045" and you run the risk of having the spark voltage driven up TOO HIGH and spark bouncing around the cap/distributor uncontrollably again.

IF YOU DO NOT OPEN THE PLUG GAP UP, and you waste much of the potential of the Upgrade.
The entire idea is to have more spark energy, but make sure it actually makes it to the plugs!...
--------------------------------

Any more question I CAN ANSWER FOR YOU CHADLOW?

Since I'm the one that developed the upgrade, continue to make additions to it, and have the electrical/automotive background to make these changes and have it all work correctly, ask me directly and maybe there won't be such a crap slinging fight every time you post...
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Unread 01-06-2009, 06:05 AM   #24
j33pman
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Actually you helped clear things up a little more for me as well.
I thought you opened the gap up to .045 after the coil upgrade.
I was thinking that the stock coil couldn't handle the larger gap
Thanks Jeephammer!
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Unread 01-06-2009, 10:21 AM   #25
chadlow
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Yes, if the stock coil can handle .045, then I will go ahead and put my new plugs in. I was going to wait until I had enough to buy a MSD module before I put on the E-Core coil and the new plugs because I didn't want to fry the stock module.
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Unread 01-06-2009, 07:39 PM   #26
CJhollic
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Now I'm confused. What is the purpose of the e-core coil if not to increase the voltages and usable spark energy?

I am trying to apply ohms law and other electrical principals to this and dont understand how the gap increases voltage, jeephammer, can you clear up an old mans confusion?

My understanding of a coil is as follows:
(example only)
12 volts applied to 200 primary windings
20,000 secondary windings (100 x primary)
100 x applied 12 volts =1200 volts

Why does spark plug gap change this? It would seem that spark energy would actually decrease by opening the gap with the same coil.
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Last edited by CJhollic; 01-06-2009 at 08:56 PM..
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Unread 01-06-2009, 09:25 PM   #27
CJhollic
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Never mind, I did some research and answered my own question. Guess I should have done that first. Here is a link to an article if anybody is interested. Page 9 0f the pdf.

http://webtools.delmarlearning.com/s...javec_ch21.pdf
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KC Daylighters
Cold Air Intake
Lock-Right Lockers
Yukon 1 piece axles
Custom Bumper& Swing Out Tire Carrier
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