Please help-engine issue (poss timing or vacuum) - JeepForum.com

 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
Please help-engine issue (poss timing or vacuum)

I'll cut to the chase.

The jeep ran perfectly fine with a (new) demon 625, spacer, and S2P2 intake.I decided to swap the S2P2 with a RPM AIR GAP and nothing seems to going right. My current setup is this:
-Air gap
-spacer
-demon 625

I did have to remove the distributor to install the AIR GAP however I followed the correct parameters in getting the jeep timed correctly or to atleast to where it should be able to run:
- found TDC compression stroke on 1
- installed Distributor
- aligned rotor with position of #1 wire

I can't get this thing running for the life of me. I have tried various positions with the distributor at 5,7, and 10 degrees left of the TDC mark on the timing cover as well and it still won't run.

I will say this; a major issue I can see with thes HEI distributors is they have limited clearance and can only move so far in one direction due to either the PS belt or interference with the valve cover or intake (I have already shaved off a significant amount of aluminum on the intake)

It will start if I give it some gas but it will just not idle and it's getting extremely frustrating as I don't know what i could be missing.

Do you guys think it's timing related or could it be vacuum related?

WHO CAN HELP?!!!!!

LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 07:44 AM
swatson454
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,514
Could be both but dropping the distributor in a tooth off is easy enough to do. I'd mark the base directly under post #1, remove the cap, spin the engine over by hand until the rotor points at your mark on the base, remove the rotor and have a look at the alignment between the star wheel and reluctor (hopefully I said those right). That could tell you if you need to move it a tooth back or forward.




Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
swatson454 is offline  
post #3 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
Thanks man-I will say this. It DOES seem to start better and want to run the more I crank the distributor counterclockwise. The only issue is interference
LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
post #4 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 08:45 AM
pedal2themetai
Registered User
1956 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Boise
Posts: 448
HI, you could still be 180* out of time... Try that first. move all the wires 180* and see if it don't start.. sometimes its hard to get TDC by putting your finger over the hole because of the cam overlap it can cause some pressure or the exhaust stroke and make you think your on the compression stroke. (been there done that).. The piston comes to the top and the timing mark hit "0" twice per one rotation of the dizzy.
good luck
tim
pedal2themetai is offline  
post #5 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 09:01 AM
swatson454
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,514
There's no way he's 180* out. If it's getting better but he runs out of room, he's a tooth off.


Shawn
jcal73 likes this.

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
swatson454 is offline  
post #6 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454
There's no way he's 180* out. If it's getting better but he runs out of room, he's a tooth off. Shawn
Shawn,
When you say tooth, are you referring to something in the rotor or a tooth off on the distributor gear?
LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
post #7 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 09:24 AM
John Strenk
Moderator
 
John Strenk's Avatar
1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shalersville Ohio
Posts: 15,804
IF you lined up the distributor rotor with #1 before you put the distributor in then you can be off a tooth or two. I usually check the position of the rotor after the distributor is in because the rotor will rotate as you drop the distributor down.
If you are limited in rotation, this could be your problem. Sometimes I have to move the rotor away from the #1 position so it ends up in the correct position when it's fully installed.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
John Strenk is offline  
post #8 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeJamesCJ25
Shawn, When you say tooth, are you referring to something in the rotor or a tooth off on the distributor gear?
Hit send before actually finishing*

The reason I ask is it just something as simple as sticking it differently or something I need to adjust once I insert the distributor
LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
post #9 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 10:11 AM
swatson454
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,514
Just like John mentioned: you have to anticipate where the rotor will end up when you drop the distributor and it's easy enough to get it wrong. That's why I said to mark the base, etc. from my first post.

It sounds like you need to come back up for another tooth clockwise and restab it. Happens all the time; no sweat.


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
swatson454 is offline  
post #10 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 02:21 PM
Matt1981CJ7
Web Wheeler
 
Matt1981CJ7's Avatar
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Elbert
Posts: 17,349
You can actually orient the distributor any way you want to create more adjustment, as long as the plug wires are indexed appropriately.

Use a long flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the oil pump gear shaft to whatever position you need, keeping in mind the whole assembly rotates as you drop the distributor in.

Good luck,

Matt


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Matt1981CJ7 is offline  
post #11 of 51 Old 04-28-2016, 02:34 PM
cj5fred
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bloomfield
Posts: 39
If it runs, I would get a timing light on it and see where your at. That would give you an idea if your in the ball park.
cj5fred is offline  
post #12 of 51 Old 05-03-2016, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
I honestly don't know what to do guys. I have done all above the above recommendations to timing and tips when installing the distributor along with aligning the rotor and #1 position. I even just went and bought a new DUI distributor just to see if that were the case. It didn't fix anything. Could the issue be with the manifold and possibly installing it wrong? Everything went to hell when I switched from the S2P2 to the air gap. The engine just struggles and acts like it wants to start but nothing. I did pull the plugs and they're pictured below. Let me know what you think. I'm losing my mind over this thing

Name:  image-1236897161.jpg
Views: 97
Size:  537.6 KB
LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
post #13 of 51 Old 05-03-2016, 01:01 PM
swatson454
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,514
Did you get the extra travel (distributor rotation) you needed and has it run long enough to get a light on it? Also, those plugs are toast so I'd start with a clean set gapped at .040.

You also may try removing the spacer so you get a little better signal to the carb but I'd start with new plugs.


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
swatson454 is offline  
post #14 of 51 Old 05-03-2016, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
LakeJamesCJ25
Registered User
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Burton
Posts: 293
Hey Shawn,

The engine won't run long enough to get a timing light on it.

In regards to the distributor-the DUI is roughly 1" higher than the eBay model and does offer more room for adjustments. When it DOES (and it will) get running, I don't see any issues with room for adjustment.

I will try a new set of plugs. I did throw in an older set that once looked like the ones pictured above (after I cleaned them off) and I still got the same issues with the engine i.e. Not running

I'll take the spacer off and see if that does anything. I'll do that in conjunction with new plugs and see if that helps.


I will let you guys know I have the PCV valve plugged right now. Would that be enough to cause an issue if it wasn't hooked up?
LakeJamesCJ25 is offline  
post #15 of 51 Old 05-03-2016, 02:02 PM
swatson454
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 6,514
Definitely hook the PCV up as it'll throw off the signal the carb is designed to operate with.

That sounds like a good plan, bud: remove the spacer, new plugs, hook up the PCV, set the mixture screws 2 turns out and see if you can get it to fire long enough to get the timing set somewhere around 12* with the vacuum advance blocked off.

If you can get that far, hook the vacuum advance up to manifold vacuum and try to tackle the lean-best idle setting with the mixture screws. Hopefully as you're able to set one thing, the next one comes easier, so on and so forth. As you start gaining ground on it, the idle speed will probably creep up on you. If it does, just pull it back down to ~750 with the idle speed screw and see if you can get an even finer setting on your mixture screws.

Hopefully it will all start coming together.


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
swatson454 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome