[243]

Many years ago I was told that when a pinion seal is replaced, it should include a new crush sleeve. Is this the case with CJ7?

[Bard]

Originally Posted by 243

Many years ago I was told that when a pinion seal is replaced, it should include a new crush sleeve. Is this the case with CJ7?

If you are referring to the AMC 20 rear end. I just replaced mine and it doesn't leak. I did not replace the crush collar in it, just tighten the nut down to where it was tight. You should only have to replace the crush collar or sleeve when you put a new bearing on the pinion.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Bard

If you are referring to the AMC 20 rear end. I just replaced mine and it doesn't leak. I did not replace the crush collar in it, just tighten the nut down to where it was tight. You should only have to replace the crush collar or sleeve when you put a new bearing on the pinion.

That would depend entirely on if you have a differential WITH a 'Crush Sleeve' to preload the bearings or not!

I'd hate to see you try and put one a differential that isn't supposed to accept one!

Looks like 1976 to 1986 Jeep CJ had a Spacer, Collapsible, Pinion $2.99 from Quadratech, p/n 52423.00
If it were me, for $3 I'd get two, a 'just in case' second one!

Now remember, it's going to take gut busting torque to get that preload collar to start to crush,
(I'm 6'3", 270 lbs, and it takes everything I can throw at it to get it started!)
But once started, you have to sneak up on the rotational torque, and it's VERY easy to over torque once you break one over!

Once the break over, the get WAY to easy to over torque!
So check with the rotational wrench often

Here is a homemade tool I use to get a grip on the pinion yoke...
Makes things easier when you are trying to hold the yoke AND tighten the pinion nut...



If you are working under a vehicle, make your handle long enough you can wedge it against the frame rail so you can devote both hands to the nut wrench...

[SuB8HaVeN]

I replaced my pinion seal on my AMC 20 a few months ago and just put the nut back on afterwards, tightened it up, and haven't had a problem since.

[243]

Thanks for the wrench idea, that will be easy with lotsa plate and a torch in the garage.

If the pinion is not torqued to factory specs, does that change the setup with the ring gear?

[SuB8HaVeN]

I don't think it should. I just got mine tight enough. It was actually pretty loose when I was removing it. Also, if you're looking for something to keep it still while torquing it back on, just put the wheels on the pavement and put it in gear with the parking brake on and torque it on there.

[No_Bs]

So long as your not putting in new gears, don't worry about it. Just tighten it up until it feels tight. Me and my brother just put new gears in his 20 and it took a 3/4" impact at 150psi to crush the collar, and it didn't go easy after that. Just go till it's tight, I woul say something around 100ft-lbs should be fine. Also, my 8.8 in my F150's rear pinion nut backed off, and I drove it for a while like that before I realized what it was. I tightened it down (it's a crush washer system as well) and have had no problems since.

[Rollbar]

I'm replacing my D-44 pinion seal in a few weeks & I am going to re-torque it down to factory specs (210ft lbs I think). I can't remember where to get the seals for the axle/pinion, someone said curry or something,but they were excellent seals. Could someone chime in on this.

Thanks,

[Bard]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

That would depend entirely on if you have a differential WITH a 'Crush Sleeve' to preload the bearings or not!

I'd hate to see you try and put one a differential that isn't supposed to accept one!

Looks like 1976 to 1986 Jeep CJ had a Spacer, Collapsible, Pinion $2.99 from Quadratech, p/n 52423.00
If it were me, for $3 I'd get two, a 'just in case' second one!

Now remember, it's going to take gut busting torque to get that preload collar to start to crush,
(I'm 6'3", 270 lbs, and it takes everything I can throw at it to get it started!)
But once started, you have to sneak up on the rotational torque, and it's VERY easy to over torque once you break one over!

Once the break over, the get WAY to easy to over torque!
So check with the rotational wrench often

Here is a homemade tool I use to get a grip on the pinion yoke...
Makes things easier when you are trying to hold the yoke AND tighten the pinion nut...



If you are working under a vehicle, make your handle long enough you can wedge it against the frame rail so you can devote both hands to the nut wrench...

Nice write up. I agree to a degree, but the crush collar is under the pinion bearing and shouldn't be an issue replacing the yoke or seal. So since I have replace the rear pinion seal enough times, I just use a cordless snap on impact gun to tighten it down. Never leaks until it get water into the gear oil or I snap the ears off the yoke.

[OSUAV8R]

So if I am just removing the nut and yoke... once I replace the seal and the yoke,, what should I torque the nut to? I amdoing this on an AMC 20

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by 243

Many years ago I was told that when a pinion seal is replaced, it should include a new crush sleeve. Is this the case with CJ7?

There are two other currant post on this forum concerning the issue you face and the instructions are outlined in detail in all of these manuals Haynes, Chilton and the Factory Service Manual M R 252. The seal replacement is a simple step in the maintenance of your CJ if you do it as outlined in the manuals.

No, a new crush sleeve is not necessary unless you loosen the nut prior to reading the bearing preload torque required to rotate it. A new nut is always necessary or otherwise like some have stated within this thread that the nut was already loose which is a clear indication that someone in the past chose to do a fix rather than make a repair.

The best suggestion I can give is to search for the correct instruction in a good manual, and then seek advice if any clarification would be necessary. Then you may share your learned experience and have your own sense of accomplishment. Not just another thing out of the way.

[Bard]

Originally Posted by mcmud

. A new nut is always necessary or otherwise like some have stated within this thread that the nut was already loose which is a clear indication that someone in the past chose to do a fix rather than make a repair.

A old nut and red loctite work just as well and have been proven and tested.I have done this on many CJ's and other vehicles and never had issues.
As for the nut was loose and wasn't fixed the right way, totally disagree, after time a nut against a bearing will wear, loosen and just because it is loose doesn't mean it wasn't fixed correctly to begin with, more like wasn't maintained or serviced.

[mcmud]

Originally Posted by Bard

A old nut and red loctite work just as well and have been proven and tested.I have done this on many CJ's and other vehicles and never had issues.
As for the nut was loose and wasn't fixed the right way, totally disagree, after time a nut against a bearing will wear, loosen and just because it is loose doesn't mean it wasn't fixed correctly to begin with, more like wasn't maintained or serviced.

I TOTALLY disagree. It is directly indicative of another "Fix".
The nut is not against a bearing. The pinion without correct preload is being pushed and pulled. Red loctite has it's place of advantage with nuts 'n' bolts, fasteners etc , not precision fitting.

[80cj]

Although it's not an approved FSM procedure, this is what I've done with no ill effects on 4 or 5 different Jeeps with AMC 20's and D35 rearends. Before taking the pinion nut off, I mark the position of the yoke on the pinion splines, the position of the nut to the yoke, and either count the number of threads the nut is in from the end of the pinion or measure the distance with a depth micrometer, dial depth gage, etc. Then take everything off and replace the seal. Put everything back according to the previous index marks/measurement. The point is to put evreything back exactly as it was before disassembly. Use red loctite on the old nut.

[243]

Originally Posted by mcmud

There are two other currant post on this forum concerning the issue you face and the instructions are outlined in detail in all of these manuals Haynes, Chilton and the Factory Service Manual M R 252. The seal replacement is a simple step in the maintenance of your CJ if you do it as outlined in the manuals.

No, a new crush sleeve is not necessary unless you loosen the nut prior to reading the bearing preload torque required to rotate it. A new nut is always necessary or otherwise like some have stated within this thread that the nut was already loose which is a clear indication that someone in the past chose to do a fix rather than make a repair.

The best suggestion I can give is to search for the correct instruction in a good manual, and then seek advice if any clarification would be necessary. Then you may share your learned experience and have your own sense of accomplishment. Not just another thing out of the way.

In the two months between asking the question and now I have bought the Haynes manual and ordered an FSM. How much do you charge to set up CJ axles?