I have a 360 that had an automatic trans, and I'm putting it in my cj that has a standard trans. I bought a pilot bushing for my trans first,but it didn't seem to fit in the 360, would've had to drive it in. Then I bought another pilot bushing for the 360, same problem seems really tight. My question is should I have to drive the pilot bushing into the 360?
If for some reason further advice is necessary, you may try your luck here, or by posting a similar question in the ENGINE section of this forum. There's a couple of pro's that hang out there, particularly 4Wheel4CJ and pop_r_master that can help on more specifics. There are others (Oldjeepguy, JeepDaddy2000, buddhasbomb etc., etc.). All are celebrities when it comes to engine/trans stuff. Good luck!
Where exactly in Ohio are you? I'm near Akron.
A good way to "drive" it in is to use a socket the same size or a hair less as the pilot bushing, and drive it using a socket extension to hit. It goes in very easy, but take care not to peen over the inside edges of the brass. Just drive it in flush with the end of the crank. If you slightly peen over the edge, use a fine file to "denub" it. Then once it is in, put a dab of grease in the inside cavity (or a felt piece soaked with oil), for some initial lube.
Be careful not to "mushroom" the pilot bushing when driving it in. If the thru hole of the bushing gets distorted enough, the shaft of the tranny will be too tight of a fit. Main problem here being that you will be missing one of your important gears...neutral.
Hold on the greese! I was told that the pilot self lubricating. I supose the greese won't hurt anything but I don't see why it is necessary. any greese you put on it is going to wear away shortly anyway.
Only other thing I can think of is to let you know that the flywheel for the V8 360 AMC is different than the straight 6, it's externally balanced. Make sure you have the correct, externally balanced flywheel or you WILL be back in there changing it again.
Computerized Marine Diesel, IPS Systems
'06 Rubicon Unlimited
Factory specs tell you to put a lubricating wick soaked with oil inside there, but a dab of grease works well also. The reason is, that the brass actually will "wick" up some of the lube, which is what actually helps it "self-lube" in the future.
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by 4wheeler4CJ:
<strong>Factory specs tell you to put a lubricating wick soaked with oil inside there, but a dab of grease works well also. The reason is, that the brass actually will "wick" up some of the lube, which is what actually helps it "self-lube" in the future.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">I just got my new pilot bushing for my 401 conversion from Advance Adapters on Saturday. Included in the package was a fluorescent pink tag that said the following. This is a direct quote.
"This pilot bushing is made of an oilite bronze material which DOES NOT require any type of grease or oil. If oil or grease is applied, this material will bond the input shaft to the bearing causing internal damage"
I've been warned not to lubricate pilot bushings before I just didn't remember why.
This may be too late...
If the 360 had a TH-400 behind it, the crank has a thin, hard-to-see bushing in it that HAS to be removed! I had to use a Dremel and a small chiesel to get it out. Look closely!
Hope you didn't try to drive that pilot in... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
'11 JK Unlimited Sport S, stock for now...
'08 JK X, OEM rear locker and swaybar disco!