Everybody just calm down a little. No need to fight over an old wiring harness! Lets go over this again, differently. Forget about anything to do with how the engine runs, whether or not I can set change a distributor, or how to set the timing(which I cant believe I did wrong, lol).
There is a short or a bad ground or something that happened inside of ten minutes, from the time I turned the truck off until the time I tried to restart it and it wouldnt start and later wouldnt even crank..
This information would lead someone to believe you have an issue OTHER than jacking in some timing to fix the issue,
And since the recently minted 'Expert' in all things electrical hasn't answered,
I believe I'll take a crack at it...
Use a small jumper wire from battery cable size of starter relay, and jump to 'S' terminal (should be a 'Blue' wire in the factory harness).
If the starter cranks, or the starter relay tries to hit, it's not the 'Ground' or the starter relay.
IF the starter relay DOES NOT try to 'Hit' or activate, you might have a bad starter relay or bad body ground to the relay.
This ignition has the delco distributor, gm style canister coil and the ford style starter solenoid switch.
Since Delco is the only place that made breaker point distributors with vacuum advance for AMC engines, I pretty well had that part figured out.
'GM TYPE' or 'GM', there is a difference between factory and aftermarket/discount store coils.
And there is a difference between 'Breaker Point' and electronic ignition coils.
To further confuse things,
Since we are now finding out you HAD (Past Tense) a Prestolite ignition with all the common Prestolite problems,
You DO NOT Have an ignition resistor in place,
Not a resistor wire, not a ceramic block resistor if you didn't install it.
That probably means you are toasting the breaker points since you don't know if you have an internally resisted coil or not...
Nothing happens when the key is turned and the headlights dont work. The battery checks out ok and will crank the motor just fine when solenoid is jumped.
Now, this is where people like John Strenk and myself will separate the wheat from the chaff...
(Weeners from Winners, if you will...)
If you have POWER TO NOTHING on the key switch,
You have a cooked FUSIBLE LINK (Fuse Wire) or bad connection from starter relay battery cable side to the fuse block.
With the head lights being out, and head lights connecting directly to the fuse block feed BEFORE THE FUSE BLOCK,
That means you have a supply problem between starter relay and fuse block.
The most common problem in this area is someone connecting the roughtly 10 Ga. wires that supply fuse block and 10 Ga. wire to the back of the alternator to the wrong terminal on the starter relay,
Which you DIDN'T DO, since the vehicle started and ran,
You have an 'Open' in the supply to the fuse block.
That's usually a fusible link that protects the 10 Ga. wire running from the starter relay to the fuse block.
The fusible link is a fuse wire, it's the first 5" or so of that wire connected to the starter relay, and you will find a 'Ring' terminal on one end, and a plastic block about 1/2" around and 3/4" long at the other end where it connects to the main wire to the fuse block...
Battery cable side of starter relay,
One of two 10 Ga. looking wires,
Ring terminal, first 5" are fusible link.
The round plastic block and rubberized insulation (Wire will have vinyl insulation) will tell you it's the fusible link.
I'd start with fusible link and see if it 'Stretches' when you tug on it.
Don't YANK, just tug, if the insulation stretches, the fusible link is blown.
You can also take the connector off the firewall and test for power at that wire connection terminal... but prying apart that bulkhead connector is always fun...
I am not real good at electrical stuff but I some experience with it.
I think the problem is under the dash.
The ignitio isnt getting power and the lights arent either.
This is the problem right now, not the points gap or timing or carb. adjustment.
I wont be able to mess with until tuesday, but I'll keep you all posted.
Like I said, I'd start with the Fusible Link, they sometimes give up, but my guess is you have a wire pinch or rub through somewhere, or you shorted out something powered up and cooked the fusible link...
That fusible link supplies EVERYTHING in the fuse block, everything under the dash, headlights, wipers, ect.