PCV/Vacuum/DS Oil Leak/ HELP! - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 50 Old 04-27-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
You held the throttle wide open with all plugs out for the dry test? Yes, WOT for each and every test.

The wet test was wide open with only the plug out you were testing? Wet test was done WOT with all the plugs out. The exception is I installed the plug into that cylinder AFTER the test to keep oil from blowing out of the hole. So, by the time I tested cylinder #6 there were 5 plugs installed.

No matter how you did it the numbers a re close enough to me I can't see a injured cylinder. But you must have blow by because you can't build vacuum in the engine by blocking the breather and the dipstick tube.

If you shine a flashlight into the oil drain plug hole is there and broken piston skirt material? Haven't checked that specifically, but I can say that when I installed the new oil pan gasket, a few months ago, it was clean with zero metal apparent. Do I need to drain the oil and check the hole, or pull the oil pan?

See comments in the quote...


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post #32 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 09:01 AM
swatson454
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Is there no oil baffle/separator in that valve cover? If not, that blows my theory out of the water.


Shawn

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post #33 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 02:01 PM
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454
Is there no oil baffle/separator in that valve cover? If not, that blows my theory out of the water.

Shawn
It pushes oil out the dipstick tube or front crank seal like there's a whole lot more windage then I'd expect and enough blow by to render the PCV useless. That's why I asked how much oil he was putting in.

He could always vent the two valve cover ports to each frame rail. It will keep it from rusting.
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post #34 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 02:25 PM
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
He could always vent the two valve cover ports to each frame rail. It will keep it from rusting.


I was wondering if there was some baffle set up under the breather that's gotten sludged up over time that was preventing the PCV from pulling air in.

Doesn't sound like it. I know, that was a stretch. Maybe that hole with the lower pressure is the culprit.


Shawn

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post #35 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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So nothing jumps out at you guys?? I was kind of hoping you were going say, "wah, wah... wah, wah wah wah...", and I would be back on the road! Blown head gasket?? Pull the head? Drop the oil pan? I have three drivers here, and I am down to one vehicle!!

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post #36 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 05:51 PM
86cj74.2L
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I'm clueless. Your using the big vacuum port for the PCV hose, and not some dinky little 1/8 nipple?
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post #37 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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3/8 brass nipple...

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post #38 of 50 Old 04-28-2013, 07:33 PM
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So it sounds like everything is hooked up and functioning correctly but blowing out of the dipstick. Compression looks good except for the one cylinder. If you were to pull the plug wire off of that cylinder and it quits blowing oil out of the dipstick, I bet we would know what's up and why.

Shot in the dark here.


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post #39 of 50 Old 04-29-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
Skerr
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Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
So it sounds like everything is hooked up and functioning correctly but blowing out of the dipstick. Compression looks good except for the one cylinder. If you were to pull the plug wire off of that cylinder and it quits blowing oil out of the dipstick, I bet we would know what's up and why.

Shot in the dark here.


Shawn
Hmmmm... that sounds like a good idea! I will do it. BUT, I have the valve cover off. How much mess is that going to make?? I have to hold it around 1800 rpms.

BTW- I bought a '97 4.0 to replace the 4.2. Piciking it up this weekend. But I'd still like to know what is going on here.

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post #40 of 50 Old 04-29-2013, 04:58 PM
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Either place rags over the tops of the rockers, or just set the cover in place.

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post #41 of 50 Old 04-29-2013, 07:04 PM
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I am glad that I found this. I have the same problem. I took my engine out and replaced all seals. (Oil pan, front and rear main seals, timing chain and gasket and valve cover gasket) Still have the problem. I have the head off of it right now due to broken VC bolt. The engine is covered with at least an inch thick oil sludge. I have no cylinder slap or scarring in the walls, I am at a loss. I don't have time to rebuild the engine do to needing it running by Sunday. I am hoping by cleaning the head and doing the motor flush trick that it will at least get me to winter when I can take it out and have it rebuild. I will try and take pics of the engine sludge tomorrow.

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post #42 of 50 Old 04-29-2013, 07:21 PM
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr

Hmmmm... that sounds like a good idea! I will do it. BUT, I have the valve cover off. How much mess is that going to make?? I have to hold it around 1800 rpms.

BTW- I bought a '97 4.0 to replace the 4.2. Piciking it up this weekend. But I'd still like to know what is going on here.
You'd need everything in place as if ready to drive for it to tell you anything. Score on the 4


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post #43 of 50 Old 04-30-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Big-Jon View Post
I am glad that I found this. I have the same problem. I took my engine out and replaced all seals. (Oil pan, front and rear main seals, timing chain and gasket and valve cover gasket) Still have the problem. I have the head off of it right now due to broken VC bolt. The engine is covered with at least an inch thick oil sludge. I have no cylinder slap or scarring in the walls, I am at a loss. I don't have time to rebuild the engine do to needing it running by Sunday. I am hoping by cleaning the head and doing the motor flush trick that it will at least get me to winter when I can take it out and have it rebuild. I will try and take pics of the engine sludge tomorrow.
Hey Big-Jon... sorry to hear about your problem. I have not had success figuring mine out. I am wondering if I have a bad head gasket at my low cylinder. I tried the motor flush thing. Didn't do anything for me. The label said 5 minutes. I was scared to go longer, but I would be tempted. There is no sludge in my engine. It is remarkably clean! But it was that way beforehand. I might know someone who has a 258 ready-to-go, but you would have a bit of a drive! Please keep us posted on what works for you.

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post #44 of 50 Old 04-30-2013, 06:06 PM
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I took my head to a speed shop today to get the bolt drilled out. I should be able pick it tomorrow. I cleaned the head real good last night. I sprayed the inside of the engine with a mix of diesel and kerosene. I am going to let it set for the night and clean it out in the morning. Like I said I wish I had time to just go ahead and rebuild it. But I just retired from the Air Force and now I have to get a real job. The plan is to clean it real well and put it back together by Sunday.

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post #45 of 50 Old 04-30-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
So nothing jumps out at you guys?? I was kind of hoping you were going say, "wah, wah... wah, wah wah wah...", and I would be back on the road! Blown head gasket?? Pull the head? Drop the oil pan? I have three drivers here, and I am down to one vehicle!!
Total WAG:
I worked on a '85 CJ-7 not too long ago that would idle fine as could be but under any acceleration blow oil out the dipstick. Also had a noticeable loss of power in acceleration. It turned out to be a plugged catalytic converter. Any chance of some sort of exhaust blockage? God bless.
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